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Unread 07-17-2014, 11:45 PM   #106
BlkCJ7Laredo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by only in a jeep cj View Post
Ed, I'll be honest, I have a few of them but I also have a few YJ tubs that are in line for CJ's I build.....meaning I don't have extras, but Ill be glad to make a template for you and sent it with pics and measurements.
Hey Ed! That would be great! Maybe a few pictures of one off the tub too so I can take a decent guess at the angles of the bends?

Also. When you do a YJ tub conversion, do you change the distance on the rear body mounts? Everything came apart great when I pulled the tub off the frame except those two rear mounts which snapped off like they were made of play-doh (Grade 2 bolts, boy was I naÔve back then) so I gotta cut open the rear section to fix that and put in nut plates for the tailgate so I was just going to put them at CJ width to match the rear frame crossmember that I reinforced at all the body mount points with large washers.

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Unread 07-18-2014, 12:52 AM   #107
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Yes, each side is off by .75 inch so I do one of two methods. If I'm using a non galvanized frame or one that needs repair work anyway, I cut squares around each of the two rear holes but make the squares offset from the holes center by the 3/4 of an inch. Then swap the squares left to right and weld back in.....now its in YJ tub specs. I'll see if I can find some old pics....
Nope, No pics of that. I'll snap some next time I do this.
Second method is for when I mod the tub such as I had a galvanized frame and didn't want to cut on it.
The hole on the left is what I made. The tub is upside down for ease of work. The floating nut is drilled and tapped. It can be held still with a bolt/washer in the original hole.


For the tailgate, I cut oval hole in the back side of the channel. Tub upside down (Now, I cut them the exact same size as the windshield wiper pivot ovals so I use the plastic plugs to seal them)
I use a thick backing plate and use the hinge to position the nuts for welding. Slide plate in and it works great.


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1975 CJ-6 304 T15 Dana20 30/44 3.73
1983 CJ-8 258 T5 300 30/44 3.31 Looking for full or half hardtop buy or trade
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 4.6 stroker T5 300 30/44 3.31
1986 TJ-7 Trail Jeep project in the works
2003 Inca Gold TJ Rubicon
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Unread 07-18-2014, 11:05 PM   #108
BlkCJ7Laredo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by only in a jeep cj View Post
Yes, each side is off by .75 inch so I do one of two methods. If I'm using a non galvanized frame or one that needs repair work anyway, I cut squares around each of the two rear holes but make the squares offset from the holes center by the 3/4 of an inch. Then swap the squares left to right and weld back in.....now its in YJ tub specs. I'll see if I can find some old pics....
Nope, No pics of that. I'll snap some next time I do this.
Second method is for when I mod the tub such as I had a galvanized frame and didn't want to cut on it.
The hole on the left is what I made. The tub is upside down for ease of work. The floating nut is drilled and tapped. It can be held still with a bolt/washer in the original hole.


For the tailgate, I cut oval hole in the back side of the channel. Tub upside down (Now, I cut them the exact same size as the windshield wiper pivot ovals so I use the plastic plugs to seal them)
I use a thick backing plate and use the hinge to position the nuts for welding. Slide plate in and it works great.


Great idea with the oval hole for the W/S frame plastic plugs! I'll have to do this with the body mounts as well because I used a center punch to dimple the bolts to try and drill them out and when I did it punched the whole nutsert down out of it's cradle on both sides so I have to cut it open to fish them out.

Thanks again Ed for all the great tips!
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Unread 07-20-2014, 10:29 PM   #109
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Very slow weekend due to other events and obligations consuming my time.. Only thing accomplished was I found the much needed heat stove for the exhaust manifold which I had posted another thread about, and my new brake lines came in from Inline Tube yesterday. I had already replaced all the fuel and brake lines with Classic Tube pieces in the past, but as we all know the brake lines don't fit right so I ordered the set from Inline and will use the ill-fitting Classic set on the beater plow Jeep project when I get to that.

With that said about the lines, I also ordered the brake line attaching clips from Inline as well, but they are nothing like the original pieces.. Does anyone know a good source for original type clips to hold all the lines to the frame? I took the salvageable pieces I have left and they are soaking right now in Evapo-Rust but I know that I am missing some.


Any ideas on sources for the clips are much appreciated!!
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Unread 08-19-2014, 10:35 PM   #110
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Wow, it's been a month since I posted already.... Well I've made some progress but not as much as I would have liked.. But better to take my time and get it as right as I can with what I have to work with than try to rush it and cut corners just to say it's driveable.


Here's the manifolds I found in a pile of spare parts a friend donated a couple years ago.. Heat stoves are in good shape just need to be blasted and painted with high heat paint. Then I'll put one on my manifold. Anyone know the best method? I know the factory used rivets but not the regular pop-type.





Mounted the hood, fenders and grille again to make sure everything is going to line up correctly. Looks like I'll be good to go here.






Printed out Keith460's measurements for the windshield washer nozzle hole and got that drilled and de-burred.





Finally got the axles and springs painted and placed back under the frame. I don't have the shackle hangers bolted on yet in this picture.





Decided the best thing to do instead of trying to modify the tub was to move my rear crossmember mounts back out 3/4" each side to YJ location. Cut the washers originally welded on in a previous installment off the crossmember and welded new ones on in the YJ location. I hadn't primed and painted yet when I snapped this picture earlier today but it's all cleaned up and re-painted now.





Tonight I ground down all the loose rust on the inside of the fuel tank skid pan and soaked it with POR-15 Metal Ready as instructed. Then rinsed it off and it's drying now. Then I'll coat the inside of the pan with POR-15. The outside will be painted with the Rust-Oleum industrial coating that I used on the frame.






That's about it for now. Hoping I can get the body parts and tub to friend to paint very soon. Then the chassis can go into the garage for final assembly. I don't want it sitting outdoors once the engine and driveline parts are installed.
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Unread 08-20-2014, 04:57 AM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlkCJ7Laredo View Post


Here's the manifolds I found in a pile of spare parts a friend donated a couple years ago.. Heat stoves are in good shape just need to be blasted and painted with high heat paint. Then I'll put one on my manifold. Anyone know the best method? I know the factory used rivets but not the regular pop-type.
I was able to grind off the rivets and after powder coating the heat stove in a high heat silicone powder, I drill and tapped the holes for a small stainless screw. Used some high strength thread locker on the threads and so far they are still intact and do not allow the heat stove to rattle.

If you want the OEM type rivets, McMaster-Carr has them as well.
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Unread 10-07-2014, 12:14 AM   #112
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Where do all the days go? Well at least I'm here to post some significant progress and if it keeps going like this I might just be able to take the Jeep for a spin before it snows.


I was getting very frustrated with the two people I had helping me with the tub because they started out on fire then quickly slowed down to not coming over at all. Having discussion with a couple other friends found me someone who is willing to get this done, and get it done quickly although his price is a little higher than the others were charging me. Oh well.. an extra $500 isn't going to break the bank after all I've spent on this Jeep over the years. So here goes:


Loaded up the tub last Wednesday night in basically the same stage of work as was last posted above. Took it to the guy that will be finishing the body work and painting it.


Here's how it looked when he last sent me pics on Saturday afternoon:






With the tub and the rest of the body parts at his place for body work and painting I was able to get the chassis in the garage. Got a lot done on that this weekend as well:


Getting the stainless fuel and brake lines laid out and installed:













Getting the trusty 258 I-6 ready to drop back in the chassis. This came from a 1988 YJ after I cooked the original 258 back in 1997 by blowing an upper radiator hose and thinking if I drove slow it wouldn't hurt it. Guess we all gotta learn somehow.





Finally off the engine stand where it's been patiently waiting for 2 years!





Flywheel installed and aligning the clutch disc





new springs on the clutch fork and a new Timken throwout bearing. Unfortunately it looks like Timken didn't actually make this... They are reboxing stuff just like everyone else nowadays.





New alignment dowels installed into the block (then I later found the missing original... Don't ya hate that?!) Clutch aligned, pressure plate bolted down and bellhousing installed with the original bolts that I also found after hunting down another set for $25. I really need to get more organized.





It's on its way!





Finally! Back in the chassis after 2 years. Took me a bit to figure out that I had the engine mounts upside down on both sides (the tab is supposed to go up on passenger side and down on driver's side)





Another snag when I went to bolt up the transmission.. In years past I had to tap two of the mounting holes out from 7/16-14 to 1/2-13.. Well the other two stripped out when I tried to tighten the bolts, so I had to lift the engine back up and out and fix that. Now it's fastened well, and the bolts torqued to spec no problem.





Would ya look at that. A brand new genuine Carter BBD 1980 vintage before the stepper motors came along.







OEM studs and insulator installed and new gaskets.





All bolted down and ready to go:





Bolted on a few other odds and ends and brackets yesterday and set the exhaust in to make sure everything is going to fit. This is how the chassis is sitting right now:





So that's it for this installment. Hoping to have the body parts back by the end of next weekend and I should have the chassis completed by then so the body can be set down and bolted back on for the final time. I think once the chassis is done and I have the body back everything should go very quick.


If anyone sees anything I'm missing so far please chime in. I want to make sure this is right before the body is back.
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Unread 10-07-2014, 11:05 PM   #113
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Picked up my starter and alternator today that I dropped off at a local electrical rebuilder yesterday to be refurbished. He went thru the alternator and replaced bearings, brushes, cleaned everything up and repainted it but no such luck on the starter. It was on the floor in my garage over the winter and I had a water problem after an ice storm we had that flooded the starter and ruined the internals. So off to NAPA I went and ordered their "Power Supreme" line reman starter and that should be in tomorrow.


Does anyone have any good pictures of how the alternator bracket mounts to the 258? It looks to me that the bottom bolt on the bracket that goes thru the timing cover and the block is missing a spacer or something. I hate that this project has taken so long that I've forgotten how stuff came apart, and again.. lack of taking good pictures and full organization of the parts that I removed. I hope I learn from these mistakes for the next project that I tackle (possibly the 1985 Renegade that I have sitting in the back yard)
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Unread 10-07-2014, 11:52 PM   #114
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Quote:
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Does anyone have any good pictures of how the alternator bracket mounts to the 258? It looks to me that the bottom bolt on the bracket that goes thru the timing cover and the block is missing a spacer or something.

Serp or V belt system? With or without AC? steel horse shoe shaped bracket or aluminum parts......yes, there are several set ups. Do you have the special bolts with the built in spacers?
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1975 CJ-6 304 T15 Dana20 30/44 3.73
1983 CJ-8 258 T5 300 30/44 3.31 Looking for full or half hardtop buy or trade
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 4.6 stroker T5 300 30/44 3.31
1986 TJ-7 Trail Jeep project in the works
2003 Inca Gold TJ Rubicon
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Unread 10-08-2014, 12:03 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlkCJ7Laredo View Post
Heat stoves are in good shape just need to be blasted and painted with high heat paint. Then I'll put one on my manifold. Anyone know the best method? I know the factory used rivets but not the regular pop-type.




Carefully grind off the rivet heads to remove good stove. Same grind on the good manifold except grind flat and mark spots with good stove placement.

With it being cast, you can pre heat each spot on the manifold before a good spot weld and post heat after, but you will risk a crack as it expands and contracts with heat cycles during use. Thus the OEM rivets. Drill and tap for small screws would be my method.
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1975 CJ-6 304 T15 Dana20 30/44 3.73
1983 CJ-8 258 T5 300 30/44 3.31 Looking for full or half hardtop buy or trade
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 4.6 stroker T5 300 30/44 3.31
1986 TJ-7 Trail Jeep project in the works
2003 Inca Gold TJ Rubicon
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Unread 10-08-2014, 12:09 AM   #116
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Screws it will be.


Just went out to the garage and took these pics of the alternator bracket. What am I missing here? See the gap between the bracket and the timing cover on the bottom?





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Unread 10-08-2014, 12:20 AM   #117
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Best thing you could have done for organizing is bag-and tag parts. I had bins full of Zip Lock baggies that were labeled for each part or hardware removed as I knew it would be several years before putting them back on.

As far as Alternator brackets go, here's the setup my 258 had with standard v-belts and power steering only. All factory setup photos



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Unread 10-08-2014, 12:28 AM   #118
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See, that's the same setup as mine, except it seems that on the '88 YJ 258 that bottom tab on the timing cover is shorter than what an original '85 258 would have. Looks like I need a spacer in between there, but I have all the bolts from the engine in a box and there are no spacers to be found.


I tried my best to bag and tag everything but I had removed some stuff to soak in "prep and etch" to remove rust and to degrease and such and that all ended up on a paper plate in a box to dry. That's where the bellhousing bolts were that I thought I lost.


I'm wondering at this point if I ever even had that bottom part bolted down. I put that 258 in there in 1997 when I was 21 years old and at that point in life as long as it worked and ran I was happy, even if it wasn't attached correctly.


Now if I look up the cover in the factory parts manual it shows part number J3225186 and if I google that it takes me to factorychryslerparts.com site showing it's discontinued of course, but that it also went by part numbers of : 53005769 ; 33002984; 83505398; J3225186; J3241708; J3243096. Now were these all truly the same or were some of the bosses on the cover at different heights?
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Unread 10-08-2014, 12:58 AM   #119
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I have a stack of 258 timing covers, Ill check in the AM.
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1975 CJ-6 304 T15 Dana20 30/44 3.73
1983 CJ-8 258 T5 300 30/44 3.31 Looking for full or half hardtop buy or trade
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 4.6 stroker T5 300 30/44 3.31
1986 TJ-7 Trail Jeep project in the works
2003 Inca Gold TJ Rubicon
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Unread 10-13-2014, 10:08 PM   #120
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Another productive weekend. Spent the whole time and today's holiday working on the chassis and it's almost ready to accept the tub when it comes back from being painted.


All I have left to do now is mount the shocks and driveshafts, run the vacuum lines and it should be ready.


Here's the chassis as of tonight:




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