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Unread 07-17-2014, 10:45 PM   #106
BlkCJ7Laredo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by only in a jeep cj View Post
Ed, I'll be honest, I have a few of them but I also have a few YJ tubs that are in line for CJ's I build.....meaning I don't have extras, but Ill be glad to make a template for you and sent it with pics and measurements.
Hey Ed! That would be great! Maybe a few pictures of one off the tub too so I can take a decent guess at the angles of the bends?

Also. When you do a YJ tub conversion, do you change the distance on the rear body mounts? Everything came apart great when I pulled the tub off the frame except those two rear mounts which snapped off like they were made of play-doh (Grade 2 bolts, boy was I naÔve back then) so I gotta cut open the rear section to fix that and put in nut plates for the tailgate so I was just going to put them at CJ width to match the rear frame crossmember that I reinforced at all the body mount points with large washers.

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Unread 07-17-2014, 11:52 PM   #107
only in a jeep cj
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Yes, each side is off by .75 inch so I do one of two methods. If I'm using a non galvanized frame or one that needs repair work anyway, I cut squares around each of the two rear holes but make the squares offset from the holes center by the 3/4 of an inch. Then swap the squares left to right and weld back in.....now its in YJ tub specs. I'll see if I can find some old pics....
Nope, No pics of that. I'll snap some next time I do this.
Second method is for when I mod the tub such as I had a galvanized frame and didn't want to cut on it.
The hole on the left is what I made. The tub is upside down for ease of work. The floating nut is drilled and tapped. It can be held still with a bolt/washer in the original hole.


For the tailgate, I cut oval hole in the back side of the channel. Tub upside down (Now, I cut them the exact same size as the windshield wiper pivot ovals so I use the plastic plugs to seal them)
I use a thick backing plate and use the hinge to position the nuts for welding. Slide plate in and it works great.


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1975 CJ-6 304 T15 Dana20 30/44 3.73
1983 CJ-8 258 T5 300 30/44 3.31 Looking for full or half hardtop buy or trade
1986 CJ-7 Laredo 4.6 stroker T5 300 30/44 3.31
1986 TJ-7 Trail Jeep project in the works
2003 Inca Gold TJ Rubicon
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Unread 07-18-2014, 10:05 PM   #108
BlkCJ7Laredo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by only in a jeep cj View Post
Yes, each side is off by .75 inch so I do one of two methods. If I'm using a non galvanized frame or one that needs repair work anyway, I cut squares around each of the two rear holes but make the squares offset from the holes center by the 3/4 of an inch. Then swap the squares left to right and weld back in.....now its in YJ tub specs. I'll see if I can find some old pics....
Nope, No pics of that. I'll snap some next time I do this.
Second method is for when I mod the tub such as I had a galvanized frame and didn't want to cut on it.
The hole on the left is what I made. The tub is upside down for ease of work. The floating nut is drilled and tapped. It can be held still with a bolt/washer in the original hole.


For the tailgate, I cut oval hole in the back side of the channel. Tub upside down (Now, I cut them the exact same size as the windshield wiper pivot ovals so I use the plastic plugs to seal them)
I use a thick backing plate and use the hinge to position the nuts for welding. Slide plate in and it works great.


Great idea with the oval hole for the W/S frame plastic plugs! I'll have to do this with the body mounts as well because I used a center punch to dimple the bolts to try and drill them out and when I did it punched the whole nutsert down out of it's cradle on both sides so I have to cut it open to fish them out.

Thanks again Ed for all the great tips!
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Unread 07-20-2014, 09:29 PM   #109
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Very slow weekend due to other events and obligations consuming my time.. Only thing accomplished was I found the much needed heat stove for the exhaust manifold which I had posted another thread about, and my new brake lines came in from Inline Tube yesterday. I had already replaced all the fuel and brake lines with Classic Tube pieces in the past, but as we all know the brake lines don't fit right so I ordered the set from Inline and will use the ill-fitting Classic set on the beater plow Jeep project when I get to that.

With that said about the lines, I also ordered the brake line attaching clips from Inline as well, but they are nothing like the original pieces.. Does anyone know a good source for original type clips to hold all the lines to the frame? I took the salvageable pieces I have left and they are soaking right now in Evapo-Rust but I know that I am missing some.


Any ideas on sources for the clips are much appreciated!!
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Unread 08-19-2014, 09:35 PM   #110
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Wow, it's been a month since I posted already.... Well I've made some progress but not as much as I would have liked.. But better to take my time and get it as right as I can with what I have to work with than try to rush it and cut corners just to say it's driveable.


Here's the manifolds I found in a pile of spare parts a friend donated a couple years ago.. Heat stoves are in good shape just need to be blasted and painted with high heat paint. Then I'll put one on my manifold. Anyone know the best method? I know the factory used rivets but not the regular pop-type.





Mounted the hood, fenders and grille again to make sure everything is going to line up correctly. Looks like I'll be good to go here.






Printed out Keith460's measurements for the windshield washer nozzle hole and got that drilled and de-burred.





Finally got the axles and springs painted and placed back under the frame. I don't have the shackle hangers bolted on yet in this picture.





Decided the best thing to do instead of trying to modify the tub was to move my rear crossmember mounts back out 3/4" each side to YJ location. Cut the washers originally welded on in a previous installment off the crossmember and welded new ones on in the YJ location. I hadn't primed and painted yet when I snapped this picture earlier today but it's all cleaned up and re-painted now.





Tonight I ground down all the loose rust on the inside of the fuel tank skid pan and soaked it with POR-15 Metal Ready as instructed. Then rinsed it off and it's drying now. Then I'll coat the inside of the pan with POR-15. The outside will be painted with the Rust-Oleum industrial coating that I used on the frame.






That's about it for now. Hoping I can get the body parts and tub to friend to paint very soon. Then the chassis can go into the garage for final assembly. I don't want it sitting outdoors once the engine and driveline parts are installed.
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Unread 08-20-2014, 03:57 AM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlkCJ7Laredo View Post


Here's the manifolds I found in a pile of spare parts a friend donated a couple years ago.. Heat stoves are in good shape just need to be blasted and painted with high heat paint. Then I'll put one on my manifold. Anyone know the best method? I know the factory used rivets but not the regular pop-type.
I was able to grind off the rivets and after powder coating the heat stove in a high heat silicone powder, I drill and tapped the holes for a small stainless screw. Used some high strength thread locker on the threads and so far they are still intact and do not allow the heat stove to rattle.

If you want the OEM type rivets, McMaster-Carr has them as well.
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