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Unread 05-25-2014, 09:16 PM   #76
BlkCJ7Laredo
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Finally back at it!!


After 2 years of mostly stalling I'm in gear again and hope to have a working Jeep this year.


New side panel is lined up, and tacked into place. Tomorrow I'm pulling the tub off the frame to finish up the welding and prep the chassis. The work on the tub can be done while it's off the Jeep.


I think I'll be using this tub for this CJ and my repli-tub on the plow Jeep since there's just so many things not yet perfected on the repli-tubs.











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Unread 05-26-2014, 02:17 PM   #77
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Did a little mock up work with the fenders and hood to see how everything is going to come together once I get to the painting stage. Looks like all is going to be well.





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Unread 05-26-2014, 02:21 PM   #78
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Nice work....keep it up!
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Unread 05-27-2014, 11:08 PM   #79
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After fitting up the fenders and hood ran into a little snag. Did some more work on it last night. The side panel was back about 1/4" from the front of the tub so had to split the few tack welds we put in and shifted it forward and tacked it back down. Now the door fits I'd say somewhat good... CJ doors never fit really well anyway. Anyway, here goes:




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Unread 05-28-2014, 04:05 PM   #80
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I believe I would align the panel on the door side and add material to the front of the panel. Just my 2 cents.
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Unread 05-28-2014, 04:45 PM   #81
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I'm guessing you have a MD Juan side panel attached to the OEM cowl section? I remember the body modifications working on a Repli-tub all to well and can see it has the same effect on your project. But, looks good no matter what!
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Restoration Thread:http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums...d.php?t=434226
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Unread 05-28-2014, 06:01 PM   #82
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The panel is lined up with both the door opening and the front of the cowl. It's just hard to tell from the pictures.

The panel isn't from MD Juan. This is made by Cobra King in Taiwan unfortunately. You truely can't win with any of the parts. How was AMC/Jeep and Chrysler able to make good stampings and neither of these companies are able to get them right is beyond me. Also the B pillar is off by about 1/4" so I have to modify the door striker assembly.
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Unread 06-07-2014, 03:55 PM   #83
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Making more progress today. Got the tub off the chassis and flipped upside down in the garage for more welding on the bottom and to prep it. Will get the chassis ready during this phase also.




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Unread 06-07-2014, 04:08 PM   #84
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I'm getting a list of final items I will need to put it back together. I'm having trouble finding a few things though. If anyone can help feel free to message me. I'm looking for the following:

OEM tilt steering column

3/8" thick plastic spacer that goes between carb and intake.

OEM brackets for steering stabilizer.

I think that is all I'm lacking right now that I don't already have.

Thanks all!
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Unread 06-08-2014, 10:44 PM   #85
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Got everything stripped off the frame today. Considering when I sandblasted it and coated with POR15 in 1998 I didn't topcoat it like POR suggested it has held up fairly well. I don't think I'll blast it again, just sand it down smoother and shoot it with Eastwood Chassis Black.


Broke the stud off the spring plate in the RH rear for the shock. I'll need a new one of those now, and also need better shock towers... both of mine are rusted thru. Luckily the POR was shaded from the sun behind them so the frame didn't suffer the same rusty fate.


What is the proper "Nutsert" to use for the brake proportioning valve? Looks like it broke off when I did the first restore as I had fished a 1/4-20 nut thru a hole in the frame to hold one of the bolts in.


Here's pics of the progress:





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Unread 06-14-2014, 07:17 PM   #86
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Not a lot of progress since the last installment but moving along none the less.


Got the insert taken care of with a tool that I found. I think I'll use these inserts for all the 1/4-20 bolts that go in the frame to hold the fuel and brake line clips. Also will use them for a couple of the dash screw holes that don't have threads on the YJ tub.






Sprayed the entire frame down with some really good cleaner that's similar to Simple Green or Purple Power. Scrubbed with a scrub brush and it's cleaned up pretty good. I've only got to do some minimal sanding and blast a few small areas that I didn't get good enough in 1998. While POR 15 isn't the end all-be all, I guess it did a pretty good job considering I didn't topcoat it as they suggested.





And my tires came in! Shiny new stuff like this gives me a little more bump to get going and get this project completed!






The weld work on the tub is almost completed so soon it will transition to body work to get everything ready for paint. I'll probably order my decal kit soon. I'll be using the 1985-86 Silver Laredo decal kit. I see that Pheonix Graphix and Austin Jeeps both sell the kits that duplicate the factory stripes. Are the kits one in the same or is one better than the other? I want to be sure that I have the freshest and most accurate decals when I get to that stage.
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Unread 06-14-2014, 07:25 PM   #87
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I bought mine from Austin Jeeps 7 years ago and they were not quite right. I have seen pictures of the Phoenix ones and they look more accurate. Let me dig up a picture of mine to show you what I'm talking about.
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Unread 06-14-2014, 07:37 PM   #88
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image-3959062419.jpg



image-4021576305.jpg

In the pictures you can see the different arc on the fender stripes
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Unread 06-15-2014, 12:00 AM   #89
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I've heard about that arc on the fenders not being right, and I can see now in your pics that it's not hearsay. How would you say the "LAREDO" hood lettering compares to original? The font looks a little different to me.


I guess maybe I should shoot George a note about these.. He's done quite a few Laredos plus has two originals sitting in his garage last I knew...
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Unread 06-15-2014, 12:37 AM   #90
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Check out this one on page 2 he shows pics with the entire decal set installed..


http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/he...aredo-1342742/


By searching his other posts I'm guessing he got them from Pheonix.. I guess I'll be shopping there. The arch on the fender looks correct.
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