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Unread 06-07-2012, 10:01 PM   #16
only in a jeep cj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
... so I sent that tub to its grave.

I see you cut out the defrost, "Jeep" stampings, and tailgate brackets. I do the same thing as well as the heat shields, tailgate hinge floating nut brackets, and anything else to aid in making the YJ tub more CJ original.

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Unread 06-08-2012, 06:00 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by only in a jeep cj View Post
I see you cut out the defrost, "Jeep" stampings, and tailgate brackets. I do the same thing as well as the heat shields, tailgate hinge floating nut brackets, and anything else to aid in making the YJ tub more CJ original.
The defrost section was taken by ChilliPepperTJ for his YJ tub conversion and I cut the rest of the needed pieces out for the Repli-tub conversion since they do not come with firewall support brackets, tailgate cable mounting brackets and a bunch of little stuff. Saved the "Jeep" logo stampings that are now framed and hanging on the wall in my office at home.

But yes, saved everything I could salvage so the Repli-tub would look like an original tub.
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Unread 06-08-2012, 01:26 PM   #18
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As you can tell from where I left off last night you can see that more needs to be cut out to get to the sound metal. I traced out a slightly larger cut and got the die grinder back out.





we are into good sound metal on the floorboard lip and much better metal on the cowl brace but not entirely rust free. I fear if I keep cutting though that I'll be all the way to the top so this is going to have to be good enough for now. I'm hoping with good paint on everything and seam sealer that it will keep most if not all of the two key components needed for oxidation (moisture and air)



I couldn't find that Kleen Strip prep and etch stuff. I looked at Lowe's and at Tractor Supply. I did find this stuff though. Main component is Phosphoric Acid so I'm fairly certain it'll do the same job just a different bottle. This is a gel as well so it sticks and stays around better. I've got it soaking away right now after grinding off as much as I could with the die grinder.




Now I'll get my new patch cut out to hopefully perfectly fit the hole. This will be my first welding job so we will see how I do. I'll report back after I get that done.
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Unread 06-08-2012, 02:04 PM   #19
Matt1981CJ7
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Blk,

Just a few suggestions that you may have already thought of....

If you decide not to cut and patch the brace and floor section, be sure to coat them with a high quality epoxy primer, with a rust inhibitor, before you cover it with the patch. Something like POR 15 would also work.

On your welds, use a chunk of copper for a backer, where you can. It will absorb the heat and help prevent blow thru. I smashed a copper pipe flat, then used a couple of magnets to hold it in place.

I recommend leaving a little wiggle room, say 1/16", on your patch piece. That will allow room for it to expand, from the heat, without buckling. Also, unless you get really good, really fast, don't attempt to run beads longer than about 1/2" at a time, or you will blow thru. I found the best way was to jump around the patch with simple spot welds until they were about 1/2" apart. Then, fill in the gaps between the spots, again jumping from one side to the other, until it's all filled in.

I hope this helps. Learning to weld as I repaired my tub has been the most gratifying part of my restoration.

Matt
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Unread 06-08-2012, 02:31 PM   #20
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I really dislike POR 15. I used that on the frame and the bottom and inside the tub when I did the frame off in 1998. I'm not impressed at all with how it's held up.

When I do the chassis I think I'll use the Eastwood products that Keith460 used on his Jeep. For this I'm still debating if I should separate the brace from the floor so I can get in there and clean it up a little and soak it with the Phosophoric Acid then dry it out and use Epoxy primer like you suggest. Once primed it will all be seam sealed which was only half-assed done by Jeep Corp in 1988. That should keep the air and moisture out so it will hopefully last a few more years. I know it's just a band-aid once rust starts but hopefully I can slow it down some.

Heading to Tractor Supply now to get a sheet of 16ga sheet metal. I thought I had some in the garage but it turns out that the piece I have is brushed stainless steel and that obviously won't work.
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Unread 06-08-2012, 03:16 PM   #21
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Blk,

If you think you have good metal on the brace and floor, I wouldn't seperate it just to clean between the two. I'd just work the phosphoric acid into the seam as well as you can, then paint and seal it up as you have described.

Good luck, I look forward to seeing your progress.

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Unread 06-08-2012, 03:35 PM   #22
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Too late. Already separated. Tore the floor up a little in the process so I'll cut that out and make a patch for that. That's good though as the welds don't have to look as nice on that so it will get me warmed up to do the outer panel.
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Unread 06-08-2012, 03:54 PM   #23
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I did my floor pieces from the bottom side...much easier to reach and my ugly welds are out of sight.

Definitely a good place to start.

Matt
patch2-4.jpg   patch2-5.jpg   patch2-6.jpg  
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Unread 06-08-2012, 04:00 PM   #24
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Good Idea. I'll put it up on the lift so I don't have to bend over
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Unread 06-09-2012, 01:04 PM   #25
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Today we learn how to and how not to weld. This is my first time welding anything so hopefully it turns out OK. This is why I'm starting with the floor patch because you do not see that so if I mess it up no biggie.

Here's my equipment. Lincoln PowerMig 180C



And my Miller Elite helmet



Here's how the brace looked after soaking in phosphoric acid overnight. Hopefully this is good enough.




Cut my patch out of 16ga as that's all I had. I believe the floors are 20ga but this will have to work.



I've put a few tacks on so far. I don't think I've got the heat up high enough. I did get good penetration on one of them.




If anyone has any pointers on what settings to use on the welder for what I'm doing with it I'd appreciate it. I'm going to grind off the bubble gum welds on the left side right now, open the gap justa little as I think it's a touch too tight and give it a few more spot welds and see if I can get them as good as that one thats near the center of the patch.
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Unread 06-09-2012, 04:18 PM   #26
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A little more progress. I've got as far as I think I'm going to go with this floor patch. The thinner floor and thicker patch aren't a good mix for an inexperienced welder like me. I've still got a few little spots where light shines thru meaning that part didn't get welded. I think what I'm going to do from here is put some JB Weld all along the weld seam then sand it down smooth and call it good enough for paint.




The outer patch should be easier as it's all 16ga steel. I didn't have any problem with blow thru or anything with that, just with the thinner floorboard material.
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Unread 06-09-2012, 05:27 PM   #27
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Blk,

An auto body repair guy is born BABY!! Looking good, to this rookie welder.

Are you getting full penetration? It looks like it. Don't stress over the pin holes. A good metal glaze will take care of that.

I bet you're having fun.

Matt
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Unread 06-09-2012, 07:16 PM   #28
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Yes I am having fun with it. A good friend wants to use my lift so I will let him weld the outer patches so I can see a private work before I continue. Going to order a new side panel for the left side as that's a lot worse
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Unread 06-13-2012, 02:01 PM   #29
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Been at a standstill for a couple days. I shopped around online and got what I think is a good deal on a new complete LH side panel with Jeep logo. After reading 243's thread I think I'm going to use the structural adhesive to attach the new panel. No chance of warping it that way and probably less chance of it rusting at the seams. To be on the safe side I'll put a plug weld from the back side every few inches or so along the floor pan and wheelhouse so it should keep bondo work down to the minimum.

Waiting for the weld thru primer to get here so I can finish up the patch on the passenger side. Then I can get that all prepped.

Anyone know of anybody that has defroster duct section of a CJ tub so I can graft that on there as I'm doing the rest of this?
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Unread 06-15-2012, 01:53 PM   #30
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Now that the weekend is approaching I'm beginning to make progress again. I've still got to get a hold of my friend that's a pro welder to weld in the patch for the RH side. New fenders arrived today but one is damaged and they are replacing that so I have to box that up to go back.

Removed the YJ fender on the driver's side. Most things on the Jeep have held up reasonably well considering I've done next to zero maintenance on it since 1998 other than oil changes and such. I didn't do a single thing to the grille when I put that back on so it's still got what's left of the original paint from late 1984 when the Jeep was built. I think all it will need is to be sandblasted, primed and painted and will be good as new. The only thing I'm worried about on it at this point is the Emissions label. I just spoke with Pheonix Grafix and he is looking into it for me and if they aren't producing it then I'll contact the person that FLynes had reproduce his.

Also... Does anyone have a good method for cleaning up the coolant overflow bottle and windshield bottle? These are the original OEM AMC pieces and aren't broken or anything so I'd just like to pretty them up some. They are the translucent white plastic.




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