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12-12-2007, 09:52 PM
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#1 | |
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Registered User
1983 CJ7
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Team Rush Upgrade problem
Well I just finshed the Team Rush Upgrade with the help of a friendly mechanic. We set it at 6 degrees BTDC because at 5 it was running crappy. First of all it feels like a new Jeep so I am stoked!
But now I noticed that the power drops off after shifting into 2nd and 3rd briefly and then is fine. It even shows on the tach. It will go to 2k and then I will feel the drop off, and then it will jump to 2300 and be fine. It feels like it is not getting gas or something during those 2-3 seconds but after I get past that it is fine. Any suggestions? I have stock everything else but the Team Rush Upgrade. I'm awful at mechinic work and am learning more everyday.  Thanks. Dustin
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1983 Jeep CJ7 White Team Rush, Halogen Headlights, Nutter Bypass, more to come... "There is no mechanical problem too tough that cannot be fixed by brute strength and ignorance." "Remember, Amateurs built the Ark, Professionals built the Titanic." |
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12-12-2007, 10:58 PM
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#2 | |||
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Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5
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Quote:
You will be pleased with the way it starts on cold mornings and the extra power you get in the low end of your 'Lugging' band... Quote:
Did you do any test on the vacuum advance canister while you had the top off the distributor? Always good to do maintenance on everything on these 20+ year old vehicles... If it's a manual, you may want to look into your vacuum lines, and your choke. When you let out of the throttle to shift a manual, you drop out of main jet and back into idle, so there will be some lag if the power valve isn't working correctly, OR, If you have a choke that likes to play games. If it's an auto, 9 chances out of 10 it's a vacuum leak or vacuum line problem... Actually, this isn't uncommon... Now that the ignition is working, you are uncovering other problems you didn't have enough power to find before! Welcome to Jeep ownership! Quote:
What carb do you have, and has it been cleaned/rebuilt since AMC screwed it down?
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REMEMBER, 'Free' internet information is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it! LINK:Dual Battery Diagrams & Explanations. LINK:Winch, Welding, 'Lend Power' Project, LINK:Water Proofing Ignition, Hubs, Ect., LINK:BSERK's Winch Plate, LINK:AMC V-8 Front Cover Recondition, LINK:How An Ignition Works, LINK:Ignition Swaps '77 Older Jeeps, LINK:'78-'90 Jeep Ignition Upgrades, |
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12-13-2007, 12:45 AM
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#3 |
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Registered User
1983 CJ7
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My jeep is a manual with a t-5. I don't think the mechanic did any vacuum testing (I didn't see him). The carb is stock and unless the PO did some work on it (highly unlikely) it has not been cleaned or rebuilt.
__________________
1983 Jeep CJ7 White Team Rush, Halogen Headlights, Nutter Bypass, more to come... "There is no mechanical problem too tough that cannot be fixed by brute strength and ignorance." "Remember, Amateurs built the Ark, Professionals built the Titanic." |
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12-17-2007, 08:05 AM
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#4 |
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Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5
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Did you get running, or are you still having problems?
__________________
REMEMBER, 'Free' internet information is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it! LINK:Dual Battery Diagrams & Explanations. LINK:Winch, Welding, 'Lend Power' Project, LINK:Water Proofing Ignition, Hubs, Ect., LINK:BSERK's Winch Plate, LINK:AMC V-8 Front Cover Recondition, LINK:How An Ignition Works, LINK:Ignition Swaps '77 Older Jeeps, LINK:'78-'90 Jeep Ignition Upgrades, |
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12-18-2007, 12:43 PM
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#5 |
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Registered User
1983 CJ7
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It runs, just not as smooth as it did before the TR upgrade. It still idles like waves when I first start it (up to 1100, down to 550 , repeat) until it has warmed up for 5 mins. then it idles fine at 1100. And the power still drops off while accelerating in the 1000 - 1500 rpm range. I am getting used to it but also researching possible problems. I put in a STP carb cleaning in the gas tank but it didn't do much.
You (JeepHammer) said that it might be the carb gaskets so I bought a carb gasket kit from Checker AUto Parts and a new K&N air filter. Rebuilding a carb will take double the time it would take you so I am going to try the gaskets first.
__________________
1983 Jeep CJ7 White Team Rush, Halogen Headlights, Nutter Bypass, more to come... "There is no mechanical problem too tough that cannot be fixed by brute strength and ignorance." "Remember, Amateurs built the Ark, Professionals built the Titanic." |
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12-18-2007, 01:59 PM
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#6 |
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Registered User
1984 CJ7
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What carb do you have on it?
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84 Cj-7 with hard top and hard doors that is regaining life as a jeep again |
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12-18-2007, 10:34 PM
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#7 |
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Registered User
1983 CJ7
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I have the stock Carb which should be the Carter BBD.
__________________
1983 Jeep CJ7 White Team Rush, Halogen Headlights, Nutter Bypass, more to come... "There is no mechanical problem too tough that cannot be fixed by brute strength and ignorance." "Remember, Amateurs built the Ark, Professionals built the Titanic." |
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12-19-2007, 12:58 AM
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#8 |
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Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5
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On a hunch, check your timing with a light, disconnect the vacuum, and just watch your timing...
See if it moves around on it's own at idle... Another hunch, Did your distributor have a cap locater tab on it? Looks like this,  Or are you running an I-6 engine? Also, idle at 1,100 RPM! That's not an idle, you are into main jet circuit at 1,100! You SERIOUSLY have carb or ignition problems! Or you uncovered a nasty vacuum leak now that the engine is getting spark like it should...
__________________
REMEMBER, 'Free' internet information is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it! LINK:Dual Battery Diagrams & Explanations. LINK:Winch, Welding, 'Lend Power' Project, LINK:Water Proofing Ignition, Hubs, Ect., LINK:BSERK's Winch Plate, LINK:AMC V-8 Front Cover Recondition, LINK:How An Ignition Works, LINK:Ignition Swaps '77 Older Jeeps, LINK:'78-'90 Jeep Ignition Upgrades, |
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12-19-2007, 04:25 AM
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#9 |
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Registered User
1983 CJ7
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The CJ has idled at 1050 - 1100 ever since I got it a few months ago. I thought it sounded high becuase my Mercury Mountaineer idles at 600 even but also thought "that's just how it is". It is the stock 258ci I-6. Is it bad that it idles that high? What should I do about it? At this point I have the go from my understanding wife to throw money at it. I am not sure about the locator tab. i will check in the morning. I also checked the firing order and that is correct. I couldn't use the new spark plug wire that goes from the TFI to the distributor because it was incredibly short. I am in the process of re-locating the TFI to a closer position but I really don't think that this is the problem. Thanks for the help.
__________________
1983 Jeep CJ7 White Team Rush, Halogen Headlights, Nutter Bypass, more to come... "There is no mechanical problem too tough that cannot be fixed by brute strength and ignorance." "Remember, Amateurs built the Ark, Professionals built the Titanic." |
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12-19-2007, 11:36 AM
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#10 | |
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Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5
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Quote:
You do know that BBD carb has some real problems? Frequent cleaning of parts, ect? This is normally a can of carb cleaner or brake cleaner, and a screwdriver... I'm not a BBD expert, but I'm sure if you post a thread about BBD problems, some one will help you!
__________________
REMEMBER, 'Free' internet information is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it! LINK:Dual Battery Diagrams & Explanations. LINK:Winch, Welding, 'Lend Power' Project, LINK:Water Proofing Ignition, Hubs, Ect., LINK:BSERK's Winch Plate, LINK:AMC V-8 Front Cover Recondition, LINK:How An Ignition Works, LINK:Ignition Swaps '77 Older Jeeps, LINK:'78-'90 Jeep Ignition Upgrades, |
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12-19-2007, 02:03 PM
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#11 |
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Registered User
1983 CJ7
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I will figure out how to adjust the idle and replace the gaskets sometime this week. I will also post a thread for some help in the next few days. I ran some STP carb cleaner through the engine. Does anyone think I should do more than that for cleaning (ie Seafoam or spray on and wipe off?).
Dustin
__________________
1983 Jeep CJ7 White Team Rush, Halogen Headlights, Nutter Bypass, more to come... "There is no mechanical problem too tough that cannot be fixed by brute strength and ignorance." "Remember, Amateurs built the Ark, Professionals built the Titanic." |
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12-19-2007, 02:13 PM
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#12 |
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Running On Empty...
1973 CJ5
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There is an orifice that needs to be cleaned regularly on the bbd... I can't remember what the call it to do a specific search...
Orifice or needle or something... When it plugs up, you get a stupid idle and acceleration like you are talking about, but I can't for the life of me remember what that part was called... All carbs have air bleeds in the venturi throats, those MUST be kept clean! Get your self a can of carb cleaner and one of those little red tubes that go on the cans, and go to town! If you have an I-6, your cap is screwed down, so cap movement isn't a problem, but if you have a V-8, cap locater tab missing is a pretty common thing, and it will allow the cap to rotate on the distributor housing, causing problems...
__________________
REMEMBER, 'Free' internet information is worth EXACTLY what you paid for it! LINK:Dual Battery Diagrams & Explanations. LINK:Winch, Welding, 'Lend Power' Project, LINK:Water Proofing Ignition, Hubs, Ect., LINK:BSERK's Winch Plate, LINK:AMC V-8 Front Cover Recondition, LINK:How An Ignition Works, LINK:Ignition Swaps '77 Older Jeeps, LINK:'78-'90 Jeep Ignition Upgrades, Last edited by JeepHammer; 12-19-2007 at 02:26 PM.. |
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12-19-2007, 02:39 PM
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#13 |
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Registered User
1983 CJ7
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Ok I am looking at my Haynes Jeep Manual and I see something called a Needle and seat assembly. Could that be it?
Do you think I should just get a rebuilt mc2100? I found a few cheaper ones on Ebay that would need an adapter plate and I would have to manufacture something to connect the OE air filter assembly to the new carb for SMOG purposes. Thanks. Dustin
__________________
1983 Jeep CJ7 White Team Rush, Halogen Headlights, Nutter Bypass, more to come... "There is no mechanical problem too tough that cannot be fixed by brute strength and ignorance." "Remember, Amateurs built the Ark, Professionals built the Titanic." |
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12-19-2007, 03:07 PM
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#14 |
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Off Road Forever
1986 CJ7
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Off the Grid in Chester Grant, Nova Scotia, Canada
Posts: 9,187
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Your charcoal canister purge valve has failed by the sounds of your description.
To test this, at idle trace the PCV line to the back of the carb and from there past a T or a solenoid thing down to a charcoal canister way down on the fender. At idle pinch this line from the canister to the PCV closed. If the idle settles down, the canister purge is shot or plumbed wrong. It is an expensive puppy too.
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Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10. Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10) |
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12-19-2007, 04:22 PM
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#15 |
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Registered User
1984 CJ7
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Far Out West Texas Mts.
Posts: 294
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From what I read, I have a gut-feeling that it is a vacuum leak somewhere. Check ALL vacuum lines carefully. The ends of the lines will stretch and harden.
__________________
"I don't do things, I give advice." by an old geezer in the movie "Milagro Beanfield War" "After all, it is the slave who thinks himself a free man who makes the best slave." (Unknown) “A closed mind is like a closed book; just a block of wood”. Chinese Proverb |
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