[scforge]

When doing the 'Team Rush' upgrade, will an Accel 'Super Coil' work in lieu of the Ford 'E' core coil ??

[SuB8HaVeN]

Yes, I used an Accel and it worked great.

[JeepHammer]

Some 'Super Coils' won't work with the Ford DuraSpark module, but if you have a 'Super Coil' now and it's working, you will be fine.

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by JeepHammer

Some 'Super Coils' won't work with the Ford DuraSpark module, but if you have a 'Super Coil' now and it's working, you will be fine.

I talked to Accel when I bought my SuperCoil and they stated the ignition module would be OK as long as I kept the resistor wire in place.

I wanted the hottest spark I could get, so was asking about running 12-14 volts straight to the coil. They said the coil puts out full with the resistor wire, but it would work with 12-14 volts without 'it' burning up.

[neek]

I've been adding to my list on the Team Rush upgrade:

E-Core Coil
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD%2D8227&N=700+ 115&autoview=sku


Was recommended by Jeep Hammer, if buying new parts.

[JeepHammer]

Originally Posted by Mike Romain

I talked to Accel when I bought my SuperCoil and they stated the ignition module would be OK as long as I kept the resistor wire in place.

I wanted the hottest spark I could get, so was asking about running 12-14 volts straight to the coil. They said the coil puts out full with the resistor wire, but it would work with 12-14 volts without 'it' burning up.

I'm SURE the didn't warranty the module!

Anyway, if its working now, then it will work instead of the Ford style E-core coil.

Just FYI, there really isn't much difference between the output of the Canister, E-core or Super Coil with line voltage...

The E-core just saturates MUCH faster when the RPM reaches 2,000 or above, and since most guys don't operate an I-6 above 2,000 RPM, it's not really an issue!

Originally Posted by neek

I've been adding to my list on the Team Rush upgrade:

E-Core Coil
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD%2D8227&N=700+ 115&autoview=sku


Was recommended by Jeep Hammer, if buying new parts.

Yup, If I'm buying new, I buy the MSD coil.
Best quality and comparative price for the premium coils.

If I'm doing this for myself or a local guy, I get a Ford E-core from the local 'U-Pull' salvage yard.
You can get the coil, connector and mount all for about $5.

[JeepHammer]

double post.

[Mike Romain]

Originally Posted by JeepHammer

I'm SURE the didn't warranty the module!

Anyway, if its working now, then it will work

I put in my SuperCoil about 9 years ago. My module hasn't complained about it since. I did have crossfire issues inside the distributor cap. The worst was the 'expensive' Accel cap and rotor designed not to jump it 'claimed'. Well halfway through one off road trip later and that went into the trash with me finding a $tealership only an hour away from the bush so I went OEM on the cap and rotor and wires. The wires have lasted well and I think I have used a couple cap and rotors since maybe.....

I might go with the Team Rush cap and rotor setup next time. I just want to junk yard crawl for the adapter parts.

[JeepHammer]

Originally Posted by Mike Romain

I put in my SuperCoil about 9 years ago. My module hasn't complained about it since. I did have crossfire issues inside the distributor cap. The worst was the 'expensive' Accel cap and rotor designed not to jump it 'claimed'. Well halfway through one off road trip later and that went into the trash with me finding a $tealership only an hour away from the bush so I went OEM on the cap and rotor and wires. The wires have lasted well and I think I have used a couple cap and rotors since maybe.....

I might go with the Team Rush cap and rotor setup next time. I just want to junk yard crawl for the adapter parts.

REMEMBER! The cap adapter is SCREW DOWN!
I'm thinking they only used that type in '81-'82, every thing else is 'Clip On' so make sure the adapter is SCREW DOWN when you find it!
(All caps are 'Clip On' we are talking specifically about the 'Adapter' Base to distributor connection...)
------------------------

I HATE finding those carbon tracks on the rotor and inside of the cap!
BUT,
More Spark Voltage means more cross fire potential, no way around it!

Wider cap just adds real-estate between the terminals, and between the rotor conductor and the grounds inside the distributor, so it's no big secret...

Venting the I-6 cap helps.
Anytime you can remove the ionized air you take away the path the spark energy uses to cross fire and ground fire.

I'm pretty good with a drill and some MIG welder tips if the guy has an on board air compressor!
(MIG welder tips make GREAT nozzles, threaded, perfectly fit vacuum/low pressure lines, and the precise size hole makes a good regulator/restriction so you don't blow the cap off!)

Nothing like some compressed air in the distributor to chase off the ionization and keep water out when you are in the slop!

Easy to do also,
Parts, Cap, rotor, Cap Adapter,



Plug wires



Cap Adapter & Rotor Installed,



Distributor cap and plug wires installed,




The 'RED' thing in the top of the coil is a terminal adapter.
On this particular conversion, the guy didn't want to use the E-core coil, and the new plug wires were set up for an E-core coil...

If he would have told us sooner, we would have use Autolite Plug Wire Set p/n 96171 and got a Canister coil wire,

But, this adapter is from MSD,
This is what they look like in a set,



And this is where you can get a single for the coil wire if you need one,
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD%2DASY11413&N= 700+115&autoview=sku

[Mike Romain]

Thanks for the part info, I like those adapters.

I won't be doing the swap until I need new wires. The OEM premium set I now have in are still going strong. As it sits, the engine red lines out at 4400 rpm, so I cant be having too many issues with it. If it ain't broke....