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Unread 03-29-2008, 08:37 PM   #1
NWA_CJ7
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Join Date: Jul 2007
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Team Rush Mod Complete

Got it all done tonight. It really is simple hardest part is fabing up a bracket for the coil anyway it did start much easier, and the response was 100 times better, I will drive it tomorrow and see how it performs.

By the way got all parts from NAPA the top line stuff it ran me around 170.00 for everything.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/g.../MyJeep053.jpg

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Unread 03-29-2008, 10:13 PM   #2
SuB8HaVeN
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Looks good. I used the exact same components (plug wires and everything) but used an Accel ignition coil so that it would fit in the factory mount. I did notice quite a bit of difference after doing it as well.
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Unread 03-29-2008, 10:34 PM   #3
crownsey54
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so does this mod get rid of the igniton box on the drivers side or does that stay.
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Unread 03-30-2008, 12:41 AM   #4
Oily
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWA_CJ7 View Post
......hardest part is fabing up a bracket for the coil.
By the way got all parts from NAPA the top line stuff it ran me around 170.00 for everything.
I am almost done (including a heater motor upgrade, dash removal for speaker replacement and other behind the dash maintenance, nutter bypass, valve cover replacement, etc). I went to a salvage yard and bought the correct mounting bracket. Worth the money ($10.00) but could probably be found for free. I used top of the line parts but not from NAPA and came in at $120.00.
I really never did have any start up or stumbling issues. Since I am also doing the nutter bypass I will not know where to credit any gains I get. Looking forward to your driving impressions.
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Unread 03-30-2008, 05:23 AM   #5
SuB8HaVeN
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The ignition box always stays.
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Unread 03-30-2008, 05:57 AM   #6
HighCountry
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I did the Accell Coil 5 years ago before I ever heard of Jeep Forum or Team Rush and even that did an amazing job of smoothing out the idle!

About that 'nutter' modification, mine had been done for quite some time and was noticeably an improvement. However, over this Winter I did two little 'tweaks' that of themselves were a noticable improvement.

A) I added the auxiliary 'Ground Wire' to the ignition. Actually since I am huge fan of redundant overkill, I added a splice near the distributor and grounded it to the factory grounding block on the side of the engine. Then I spliced in a ground wire near the Ignition Box and grounded it to the engine. Next I removed the ground wire from the engine to the battery, shined those up and reinstalled with Dielectric Grease.

B) I removed the Venturi Cluster from my Carb and drilled out those little tubes to .032" (1/32" is close enough). This actually made a noticeable difference in the performance of the Jeep, which was a total surprise to me since the carb was totally clean and the tubes were NOT blocked whatsoever!

So, it is for certain the 'little things' that really make or break the machine!

Bruce
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Unread 03-30-2008, 07:35 AM   #7
wifflesniffle
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NWA

Can you give out a parts list of what you got from Napa? I will be doing the same this week. Also is there any difference between the Accel coil and the one you installed. Cost or just personal choice.

Matt
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Unread 03-30-2008, 09:43 AM   #8
NWA_CJ7
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bel700444..............wires
echicc1.................connector
echic24.................coil
echfa136...............cap
echfa139...............adapter
echfa159...............rotor

Mr Gasket 925d......springs, I have not got these yet and not even sure if you need them.

Also I got standard champion plugs and gapped to .045
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83 CJ7 AMC 360, nuttered & team rushed. Dana 44 rear geared & locked, Dana 30 front geared & locked Dana 300 T. Case 4" Tough Country Lift, 1" daystar body lift, 1/2" shackle 35x12.50x15 MT MTZ's on MT classic 2's, Besrk Bumpers, Genright Tube Fenders
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Unread 04-13-2011, 09:54 AM   #9
jack ason
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Hey Highcountry. I see you drilled out the venturi tube in your carb? I am in the process of rebuilding my Carter 2bbl and would do this as well if it helps. is there a link you can send me to the procedure??
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Unread 04-13-2011, 10:11 AM   #10
MoC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuB8HaVeN View Post
The ignition box always stays.
Unless you do MSD or another ignition upgrade.
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Unread 04-14-2011, 10:40 AM   #11
LiveTo4x4
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I removed the ignition box in mine and replaced it with an aluminum box mounted ignition control module from a 70s V8 Chevy impala. I replaced my oil filled canister coil with a 90s model Ford 5.0 Ecoil.
img_0928.jpg  
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Unread 04-14-2011, 10:45 AM   #12
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jack ason View Post
Hey Highcountry. I see you drilled out the venturi tube in your carb? I am in the process of rebuilding my Carter 2bbl and would do this as well if it helps. is there a link you can send me to the procedure??
This page is not yet complete but the drilling procedure is here. It's pretty simple:

http://www.jeepix.info/bbdrebuild/

Specifically, the drill procedure is here:

http://www.jeepix.info/bbdrebuild/#Step 4
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Unread 04-14-2011, 10:56 AM   #13
jack ason
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Wow. the entire carb rebuild documentation looks great. will cost me a cartridge but am printing it all off right now. will have that for tonight when i put mine together. thanks dj
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Unread 04-14-2011, 10:59 AM   #14
Ken4444
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jack ason View Post
Wow. the entire carb rebuild documentation looks great. will cost me a cartridge but am printing it all off right now. will have that for tonight when i put mine together. thanks dj
Thanks! Note that it's not yet complete! I think it only takes you about 2/3 of the way.
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Unread 04-14-2011, 02:04 PM   #15
BioTex
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From what info I gathered from this forum, the E-core style Ford coil is not necessary on the 6 cyl. It is most noticeable on the V8's.

You could get the same performance with the round canister coil, and save your money.

If you do go with the E-core coil (TFI), you can get the coil bracket, and the wire harness at a salvage yard for around $10. They don't wear out per se, and are abundent.

I only mention this, because you can do the upgrade a lot cheaper (like around $80) by omitting the coil.
My $.02!
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