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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Team Rush install ?
I couldnt find anything about this in search so I though I would just ask. First off, this is my first time dealing with anything like this. I have all the parts for the Team Rush upgrade and I plan on tackling it tomorrow. When I put the rotor and cap on do I need to make sure they are in the same positions as the orginal? Also, Do the new plugs go on the new cap in the same relative position as what was on the old cap? I am sure these are dumb questions but I dont want to screw anything up. Thanks for any help.
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1979 CJ7 258 T150 Dana 20 |
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#2 |
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Yes, you must keep the wires in the same relative position on the cap. Changing it would change the firing order and it will never run. You cant put the cap/rotor on wrong.
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#3 |
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When you take off the cap and the wires on the original take note of the location of the #1 wire in fact you might want to make a mark or something. Depending on the brand of Cap it might have a number on it marking #1. On my cap that #1 Mark didn't line up with the Real #1 position.
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Black '85 CJ 7 258 T4 Dana 300 AMC 20 Dana 30 TeamRush/HEI Hybrid Black '09 JK 2door |
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#4 |
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Web Wheeler
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What brand cap and rotor did you use? I found prices from 9 to 33 dollars for the cap from Advance.
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#5 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North East Texas, Texas
Posts: 992
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If you are going to buy the "cheap crap" cap, rotor and wires, you might as well leave the stock parts on there. If you open the box and the cap does not have brass spark plug terminals, it is the "el cheapo" version. I am not even sure if Advance or the Zone sell the better parts. I know that the Zone's best plug wires are junk, don't know about Advance. Both of those retailers cater to the 'walk in' or 'home' customer and tend to only stock the bargain parts. Commercial or 'shop' customers tend to require the better grade of parts available from Oreilly, Napa or others. Those places also have the 'bargain' parts, but you can request the better parts if you want to do it correctly.
Do a search of this forum for 'team rush' and read up on it. Bruce |
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#6 |
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What was I thinking
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Or search for TFI upgrade. They are practically one in the same.
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#7 |
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Echlin from NAPA, Had all the criteria that the Experts suggest. Not black. Brass terminals.
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Black '85 CJ 7 258 T4 Dana 300 AMC 20 Dana 30 TeamRush/HEI Hybrid Black '09 JK 2door |
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#8 |
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Web Wheeler
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Thanks for the info. Have a napa store right down the road.
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#9 |
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Registered User
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I was gonna add another ground wire to the black wire off the module as suggested in the Team rush upgrade but could not find a solid black wire from the module mine had a stripe on it.I was afraid to add a ground there in fear of screwing thigs up.Was this the wire they are talking about or are they talking of a wire at the distributor or both?
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#10 |
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Registered User
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I have a similar question. So I am assuming, the new coil that I got for an escort that has 2 green and one red, that I just use one green. Then match red to red and green to green, correct? Also, does anyone have pics of the second ground hook up because I am confused as to where it goes. Thanks
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1979 CJ7 258 T150 Dana 20 |
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#11 |
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Registered User
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Napa had the cap with the brass terminals. The distributor adapter/spacer only goes on one way, and the rotor fits on in such a way that it will go on in the same position as the old one came off. The firing order remains the same, but just take note of the way they're all plugged in. The new distributor cap should have the 1 cylinder marked, and you can plug in all the other cylinders with respect to that. Make sure to get new plug wires too. You'll need to get the wires for a 1981 F-150 with the 300 I6. I went to Napa and got the Belden (more expensive but much better quality) plug wires, distributor spacer/adapter, distributor cap, and rotor for a 1981 F-150 and it worked just fine. You will also want to install a new ignition coil to complete the mod. I recommend the MSD Blaster, but you can also run an Accel or whatever else if you don't want to spend the extra $ for the MSD. If you do upgrade the ignition coil make sure to gap your plugs out a bit more as well. And obviously replace your plugs at the same time if you want, if they look like they need replacement.
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1986 Jeep CJ7 4.2L I6 T176 (restoration in progress) 1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon L-226 I6 T90 (restoration also in progress) |
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#12 |
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Registered User
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Hey Sub8, you mentioned swapping the stock coil with either an Accel or MSD. Are either of these a better option than going with the TFI Coil?
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__________________ - 1982 CJ5 - AMC 258 TeamRushed, MC2100, T-176, Dana 300, Goodyear AT 31's, AMC AM Radio, SuperTop, Tuffy Stereo Console , Black Diamond AT Shocks , CJ Draw Bar, Herculiner The secret to a jeep, especially a cj, is you can't panic. - Mike |
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#13 | |
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Registered User
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Quote:
Anyone? I want to fire up my jeep but don't want to fry anything.
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1979 CJ7 258 T150 Dana 20 |
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#14 |
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Registered User
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A coil should only have a red that needs 12V, and a ground. If the one wire is red, I would wire it to 12V, and the other green ones I would wire at least one of them to ground.
I'm not sure what's involved with the TFI coil, but I guess it's just a different design. I got the Accel because it just slips into the same mounting bracket and everything as the stock one (the MSD is the same size and fit). All you have to do is cut off the original coil wires from the strange OEM adapter and wire them into the aftermarket coil, + and -.
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1986 Jeep CJ7 4.2L I6 T176 (restoration in progress) 1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon L-226 I6 T90 (restoration also in progress) |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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MSD also makes an OEM style coil that uses the adaptor that is stock. Blaster 2F
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1986 CJ7, 4.2L I6, Carter BBD, Rancho 2.5" Lift, Team Rush. Coming soon: Exhaust, Wheels and Tires, Axle Gearing. |
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