Team Rush ignition problem

tuffie226 · 05-29-2008, 10:51 PM

Finally finished getting all the parts replaced tonight. When I did the Nutter part a few days ago, the engine cranked right up, and things were going smooth. Today I finished the Team Rush portion (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil). Now the funny question comes in here. When my PITA wife was helping me try to set the timing the other night after the Nutter part, she accidentally left the key in the ignition, in the on position. So obviously I came out the next morning to a dead battery (I take responsibility, I know I should have checked on it).

So today as I get all the parts swapped in, I take the Jeep out to jump start her, and it cranks and cranks, but doesn't want to turn over. So I guess my first question I have after reading on here, could the ICM have gone bad after leaving it on all night? How would I test to find out? After I address this issue and if it still doesn't work, then I guess I can move onto other issues. I am almost positive I didn't screw anything up (hopefully) doing the cap and rotor. Put the cap and rotor both back into the same positions that they came out of, and double checked to ensure the plug wires are all hooked up correctly. Anyone have any other suggestions?

OMR · 05-30-2008, 01:08 AM

It's probably 99% that you burned out ICM by leaving the key on.

Most auto parts houses can test it for you, if it's bad, buy the best quality one you can (stay away from Autozone and the like,) at least buy a Napa one or something, or even look in a JY for OEM one, there's a real problem with many of the cheap after market ones.

And Thanks for serving man ....

tuffie226 · 05-30-2008, 12:03 PM

So update...swapped out the ICM for a new one and voila...she started right up. Now I just have to figure out if she is timed right. Once she warms up she will idle, but only at about 400rpm's, which is a bit off from what I can tell. So I guess once it gets a tad bit darker I should check to make sure timing is good, and then see if the idle is set right? I have no clue how to do it, but it should be an adventure like the rest of it so far.

**JeepHammer** · 05-30-2008, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tuffie226

Finally finished getting all the parts replaced tonight. When I did the Nutter part a few days ago, the engine cranked right up, and things were going smooth. Today I finished the Team Rush portion (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil). Now the funny question comes in here. When my PITA wife was helping me try to set the timing the other night after the Nutter part, she accidentally left the key in the ignition, in the on position. So obviously I came out the next morning to a dead battery (I take responsibility, I know I should have checked on it).

So today as I get all the parts swapped in, I take the Jeep out to jump start her, and it cranks and cranks, but doesn't want to turn over. So I guess my first question I have after reading on here, could the ICM have gone bad after leaving it on all night? How would I test to find out? After I address this issue and if it still doesn't work, then I guess I can move onto other issues. I am almost positive I didn't screw anything up (hopefully) doing the cap and rotor. Put the cap and rotor both back into the same positions that they came out of, and double checked to ensure the plug wires are all hooked up correctly. Anyone have any other suggestions?

Wives and kids are good for that kind of thing...
But god help you if you say anything to her about it!!!

I FEEL YOUR PAIN!
----------------------------

Test your module...

Take a test light, connect the wire to the POSITIVE side of the battery.

Take the coil connector off, and probe the GREEN wire side of the connector.

Have some one crank the engine (BUT NOT LEAVE THE KEY ON!)...

IF the light doesn't flash, it's almost certainly the module.
(Light should flash with each cylinder firing, and at low speed like cranking, it's VERY visible....)

Then I'd take the module out and have it tested at the local parts store... They do it for free.
--------------------------------

Idle is set by a limiting screw on the throttle linkage, usually right behind the 'Arm' that your cable hooks to.

Before you try and time the engine, DO NOT forget to pull the vacuum line off the distributor vacuum advance and plug it!
Timing is ALWAYS set with the vacuum line removed and plugged!

Idle shouldn't have changed with just switching over the cap and rotor...
Sounds like the timing is off a little, try turning the distributor just a little bit 'COUNTER-CLOCKWISE', that is advance.

(Clockwise is 'Retard')

tuffie226 · 05-30-2008, 05:42 PM

Thanks JH...got the ICM replaced and rechecked the timing, and yes the first time I forgot to disconnect the dizzy vacuum line. Did it the second time and got it timed to 8 BTDC, but the idle is still sitting at app. 400 rpm's, so I will find the idle screw later tonight and play with it. Am I correct to assume that I would adjust this screw with the engine running, or just adjust and then start. I am thinking adjust the screw with engine running and timing light hooked up set to RPM's and adjust until I get into the 650-700 rpm range. More to follow. Thanks to all for the help.

illinicj · 05-30-2008, 06:53 PM

Like someone said, you probably fried the module leaving the key in the on position. Been there. I liked to have the radio on while I was tinkering with stuff and didn't know you couldn't do that. If you use the HEI module instead of the stock module, you CAN leave the radio in the on position without fear of burning it out. At least thats what I have been told, and I have done it w/o problems...

tuffie226 · 05-30-2008, 10:38 PM

One more question for the Jeep gods...got her up and running this evening, and took her out for a spin. I'm pretty confident that I got the timing set right, and she was running like a dog, no get up and go. When I did the nutter part, I wasn't too sure about setting the stepper motor pins, so I'm not sure that I have them set right.

Would not having them extended far enough cause a condition that would make her feel like she was missing and cause her to have much less power than before the modification (or would it cause the correct timing to not feel correct in the vehicle). Hopefully I'll have some idea in the morning about some other fine tuning to get her up and moving properly.

tony dz · 05-31-2008, 09:35 PM

Can somebody point me to the ingition control modual? Where is it? What's it look like? There's a chance I fried mine too... Thought I had it off, but the battery is dead tonight. Can't say for sure since my wife was helping me.. when she turned the key to start, it was dead, but she wasn't sure what position it was in to begin with..

illinicj · 05-31-2008, 09:42 PM

The stock module is a silver box bolted to the inside of the fender. 2 wiring connectors attached.

littlebuddie · 05-31-2008, 10:09 PM

Stock ICM looks something like this:
http://www.partsamerica.com/productdetail.aspx?MfrCode=BOR&MfrPartNumber=CBE7& PartType=194&PTSet=A

tony dz · 05-31-2008, 10:22 PM

Thanks.. found it.

tuffie226 · 06-02-2008, 10:15 PM

Latest update...finally have her up and running...but definately think I am going to have to replace the carb. I am pretty sure I have her timed right (at least in her condition) but she is sitting at 12-14 BTDC. I tried ti do it at 8 BTDC and then adjust the idle, but no matter what I did to the idle screws, nothing changed in the way she idled.

So I did some more investigating, like I said earlier, thought maybe I didn't get the stepper motor pins set right. The first time I adjusted the pins, I noticed a piece of the wall that held the pins in the motor was missing, and the rest looked like it was cracked, but it seemed to hold, so I went with it. Well when I tried to pull the pins further out this time, I realized (oops) that the crack was actually where the wall had broken previously, and it looked to have been glued or epoxied together. Hmmm...friggin PO's.

So I did the same thing, got the wall put back together, even though it meant I couldn't pull the pins anymore for fear of breaking the whole thing, got her together, and timed her up. Unfortunately, she still idles only after she has warmed up, and then only btw 400-450 rpms. And now she dies when I come to a stop, even if she is warmed up (maybe fuel sloshing away from something, dunno). Plus the fact that I cannot make heads or tails out of whatever the hell happened to the vacuum line routing underneath there. I do plan on going to NAPA and buying a ton of vacuum hosing to replace all that I can find under there, but I know what is there probably isn't right except for what I did during the nutter part.

And to top it all off, I still have to replace the friggin master cylinder, and she has started to leak oil again. Not sure if maybe the rear main seal is going, or if when I removed the bolt from the dipdtick tube to replace the coil, maybe I jarred the tube loose, and that is causing the leak. I just replaced the valve cover which fixed the previous leak. What a way to spend my redeployment leave. Grrr!!! Gotta love the Jeep. I <3 Heeps!!!