TBI 350 help - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 39 Old 05-19-2014, 04:46 AM
gmakra
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Seems to me you might want to rebuild your fuel pressure regulator with pressures bouncing around like you say.

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post #17 of 39 Old 05-19-2014, 06:24 AM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sportinwood View Post
Scratch that it's 1/4" supply and 3/8" return line.
Umm, that is a really tiny gas line. Are you sure it isn't 3/8" line and 1/4" return? That is what my CJ has.

Mike
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post #18 of 39 Old 05-19-2014, 06:28 AM Thread Starter
Sportinwood
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I have rebuilt my tbi twice already. Once when I first bout it and then I got into it againto replace an injector so my regulator should be good. But if I can't fix it with a new pump I'll get back into it again. Thanks for the suggestion. Thanks Dave I'll probably go that route. I'm a firm believer in using as many stock and easily accessible parts as possible. I guess it's a good time to upgrade to the 21gallon tank. LOL
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post #19 of 39 Old 05-19-2014, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
Sportinwood
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
Umm, that is a really tiny gas line. Are you sure it isn't 3/8" line and 1/4" return? That is what my CJ has.
I'm kinda going by the picture in my head on that one. Yes you could be right on that. Right now though i just have the rubber fuel line tied into my stock hard lines so I think it is 1/4" supply and 3/8" return at leas from the stock lines up to the tbi. At any rate that'll all change when I do Dave's in tank mod. That gives me another excuse to buy the bigger tank that I'd like to have anyway.
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post #20 of 39 Old 05-22-2014, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
Sportinwood
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K so just as a follow up and in case anyone was wondering. Out of curiosity and now that I have my computer/fuel pump relay wired in properly I went ahead and put my high pressure pump the E8248 back in and she has never ran better! I'm staying steady at 13 psi from idle to WOT. Idleing very smooth and getting zero lag when I throttle up. She starts every time no matter how hot or cold!
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post #21 of 39 Old 05-22-2014, 07:51 PM Thread Starter
Sportinwood
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Oh and fuel lines are 3/8" supply and 5/16" return.
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post #22 of 39 Old 05-22-2014, 08:25 PM
dg6772
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Did you wire your pump as the factory did? Via oil pressure? Or did you go a different route?

I added the entire GM emc wiring to my cj. To make it friendly to a mechanic if I have to take it to one.

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post #23 of 39 Old 05-22-2014, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
Sportinwood
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Yes I used the factory gm wiring harness there were just a few loose ends that didn't tie in directly to the cj. The fuel pump was overlooked while I was trying to sort eveything else out.
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post #24 of 39 Old 05-22-2014, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
Sportinwood
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Now it's just a matter of straightning out a couple mechanical problems. Rear axle seals are leaking, breaks need bleed again, leaking powersteering pump, ignition switch really sticky, and right Warren hub is locking up on me. Ughhh always something! LOL
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post #25 of 39 Old 05-22-2014, 10:11 PM
dg6772
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My ignition switch is doing that too. ...real bad when its cold out.

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post #26 of 39 Old 05-23-2014, 06:28 AM Thread Starter
Sportinwood
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There's a rod in the column that gets bent. I'm going to try to beef ot up a little bit. Stronger steel or maybe a bigger diameter.
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post #27 of 39 Old 05-23-2014, 06:28 AM
scooby533
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What engine mounts did you all use for the 5.7l conversion? I'm pulling the trigger and swapping in a 5.7l/700r4 combo. I've read how some have issues with the front driveshaft clearing the trans pan/casting.

I plan on keeping it TBIed. What problems, other than the fuel pump, were encountered?

Shawn
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post #28 of 39 Old 05-23-2014, 07:49 AM Thread Starter
Sportinwood
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Novak adapters has an engine mount kit that I used.

I had an over heating problem at first. I was using a cheap radiator and an electric fan. After I blew the whole plastic top off the cheap radiator and stranded myself in the mountains I once again called Novak. They were able to send get me all the stuff I needed to fix that problem up in the mountains. They sent me new hoses, clamps, and an all aluminum radiator. That wasn't cheap but well worth it. After I installed the new radiator my alternator fan rubbed a hole in the top radiator hose. So that's something to watch out for. I built a little sheet metal shroud to put over the alternator to avoid that problem again. Once I got it home I was still running hot. I pulled the electric fan off and put the mechanical flex fan back on. Then I changed the thermostat out from a 195* to a 180*. Cooling Issues solved!

Wireing was a pain from the beginning even using the factory gm wiring harness and fuse panel that came with the engine. The hardest part was getting gages, lights, ignition switch tied into that harness. It would have been next to impossible for me at least if I didn't have that harness so make sure tou get it intact with whatever engine you get. There were I'm sure some other small problem that I'm forgetting but those were my main headaches.
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post #29 of 39 Old 05-23-2014, 08:00 AM
dg6772
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I used my cj harness for all the cj stuff and to power the engine harness. Still a pain, but not terrible. It took a friend and me about 1 and 1/2 weeks or so to do it.

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post #30 of 39 Old 05-23-2014, 08:01 AM
dg6772
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Lots of info on binderplanet.com

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