86 T5 with lots of slack in shifter. Why is the shifter in two parts? What am I missing? Seems the obvious solution is to weld the two shifter parts together. Tell me what I am missing here. It seems the shifter will come out of the transmission pretty easy in case the transmission has to be pulled. Thanks
"All gave some - some gave all"
The rubber part folds in half as it goes on the square shifter stud first. Then the metal clip goes on and the small bottom edge fits under the bottom of the rubber. Then the shift lever is slid down on the first two parts. A few tips to help it work right. Make sure the receiver end of the lever is still square and not rounded from forced leverage on a worn out bushing. I had good results using a flat metal spot on top of a large vise, and tapping the sides back flat with a hammer. Nice and square again. Also, I insert the metal clip 90 degrees off OR bend the tabs in level so I don't have to squeeze them in next time for removal. Use a little grease on the 4 flat sides of the clip so the receiver end slids on nice. I use an adjustable wrench at the welded section above the receiver tube and tab it down/on with a hammer. It will make sense when you see it.
You will be amazed at what is does. I did my 86 and if fills like brand new again. I had no rubber part left on mine and it was so loose that when I was going into 5th I would be back into 3rd it was that sloppy. Not good for a T5 at 65 mph.
Take the shifter part that fits over the stub of the transmission. Drill two 3/8" holes on two sides (not opposite of each other). Weld a 1/4-20 nut over each hole. Once its cooled, chase the threads with a tap to make sure the threads didn't get messed up. Put a short bolt in the nuts, slip the shifter onto the transmission spud, tighten the bolts up to set it in place. DONE. And if you ever need to remove the shifter in the future, it takes about 10 seconds.
Beat it to fit, paint it to match!
Yeah, I did that once too. I used 4 smaller nuts/set screws. 2 top and bottom on one side and 2 top and bottom on the next. I lined up the screws with the grooves in the square stub. It was more firm and had no wobble. Make sure the shift boot clears too. For 99% of the folks out there, the new rubber piece is all that is needed to avoid any butch jobs when the real part is a few bucks away.
It's messy and redneck but it works, rip out the rubber thing and clip, then fill it with RTV. It will shoot out and make a mess the first time you do it. The second time you do it it should work pretty good.
I appreciate all the how to's. But I still don't see any disadvantage to simply welding it. Since shifter retainer isn't hard to get out of transmission even if transmission needs to be pulled I don't see why not. suggestions and comments welcome thanks
"All gave some - some gave all"
The reason the shift lever is not welded on is because it would have been harder to
install the transmission in the Jeep on the assembly line with it welded to the shifter
Its alot easier to install things coming down a fast moving line if they are in sub-assemblies
Also, it would have been an extra step to weld it on. Believe it or not, the cost of an extra
welding process and station in an assembly line is HUGE, versus parts that are able to be
placed on easily.
Its not about why didn't they do it. Its more about why did they do it. To save money!
If you want to weld yours on, there is no real reason why you can't. Just be aware that
after that, if you ever have to take your tranny out, its just going to be a bit
harder to do, if you have to remove the entire shifter assembly, versus just popping off
the shift lever.
I have owned my 1985 CJ-7 for 20 years now, and I have replaced the rubber
snubber three times. Each time it makes the shift lever feel like new again! And
it is an easy fix.
But if you weld yours, let sn know how it comes out, and take some pics!