[84 CJ7]

Can anyone tell me what it cost to rebuild a T5 transmission. I'm just trying to get a ballpark figure and three transmission shops will only tell me after they pull it and look into it.

I want a worst case cost so I can evaluate what my next step will be.

I leaking oil from my transfer case also. I pulled the skid plate and took the rectangle plate off to clean it and Silicone it back. I think this has it sealed up well. I think I have this fixed but I'm not sure where the other leak is coming from. Could it be where the transmission and the transfer case mate up?

[gosupes]

Worst case is over a grand, that's if they have to replace the cluster or any other major gear sets. If it's just basic overhaul with synchro's and such, I was quoted about $600.

If the t-case is leaking where it mates with the trans, it's probably just the oil seal and you can replace when the trans is out.

[jhaney]

http://www.milehighjeeprebuilders.com/

[jhaney]

mile-hi jeep rebuilders will do it for flat $150 plus parts. I got a t-90 and a dana 18 rebuilt for under $700. You would have to pay shipping but it is worth a call.

http://www.milehighjeeprebuilders.com/

[madadsnt]

My T-5 cost me $1000 I worked them done from $1300 but it needed everything inside as the PO ran it without oil so it was fried!

[84 CJ7]

Thanks everyone at least I'll be ready for the sticker shock. I guess I'll be biting the bullet soon. I'm hoping it's just the syncro's.

[smokedog]

From what I have read the T5 is a weak tranny and probably not worth rebuilding. I guess it depends on what you do with your ride. If you are going with big tires or big motor you need something stronger. If my T-176 goes out I will go with the SM465. Had one in previous jeep. Parts are easy to find and you can get one in junk yard for about $100 and have it built completely for about $500. You break this one and you probably broke something else as well.

[calcallender]

I got my 176 used from a local guy for $200 when my T-5 blew.

[slacker92104]

If you want to upgrade to a better five speed, the ax-15 is decent, and about the same size. If you're going to spend a $1000 anyway, might as well upgrade.

[twmattox]

The problem with T-5 is very complex. From what I have read, the T-5 is rated to 265 ft-lb torque, the AX-15 is rated to 285 ft-lb, and the NV3550 is rated (conservatively) at 300 ft-lb. So, if it is nearly as strong as the AX-15, why does it have such a bad reputation?

I hit the website for http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical_Bits/t5_history.htm talk about a shop that knows their T-5s...the guy was very very knowledgeable! He indicated the largest problems (that gave T-5s a bad rap) dealt with a recalled third gear (went from 29 spline to 27 spline). That upgrade is supposed to help beef the thing up a good deal. Other problems deal with incorrect or improper fluid levels. These non-world class transmissions operate without needle bearings (instead having deep oil grooves). As such, they should only run gear oil.

I have done a decent bit of research on the "correct" fluid to use. A good friend is the Parts Manager at a local Jeep store and works with many mechanics who worked on these, I have looked over Factory Service Manuals from 1982, 1983, and 1984-1986, searched the Factory Recalls, and Tech Bulletins...

When they first came out, AMC recommended using ATF (1982 FSM). However, there was a recall for this in 1982 (Recall Number: 82V125000) indicating that the “ORIGINAL PRODUCTION TRANSMISSION LUBRICANT USED IN THE INVOLVED VEHICLES MAY NOT PROVIDE ADEQUATE LUBRICATION TO PROTECT THE TRANSMISSIONS FIRST GEAR.” FSM supplement for 1982 (Tech Bulletin) and the 1983 FSM both indicate to use 90wt in the T-5. By 1984, AMC started using a proprietary manual transmission lubricant. This was affectionately referred to as "fish oil" by the mechanics or AMC manual transmission fluid (Part Number 8983 000 000). This fluid was discontinued by AMC and currently, Chrysler is recommending the use of GL3 gear oil.

From my limited understanding, GL3 is very different from GL4 or GL5. I emailed Valvoline regarding this (as I haven't seen GL3 or GL4 in a very long time). They indicated that the issue is with the type of sulfate used in the lube. Apparently activated sulfate (used in some GL5 lubes) can eat brass synchros. Valvoline indicated: "The Valvoline High Performance Gear Oil 80-w90 can be used for both GL4 and GL5. The real concern is the type of sulfate used in the gear oil. You can not use an active sulfate for GL-4 applications. Valvoline uses an inactive sulfate that will not harm any yellow metal such as bronze. This allows our products to be used in manual transmissions that have bronze synchronizers."

All of this being said, there is an issue with shifting in colder climates. Apparently, the gear lube is almost too thick to allow smooth shifting on cold days, until the lube warms up a little. Many have reported good luck with synthetics, some have cut the gear lube with a little ATF, and some have reported good luck running 20w50 motor oil. I am not sure what the overall best solution is, but the only “Factory” recommended solution is to run 80-90…

I hope this was not too confusing, I have researched it a lot and written a similar dissertation in a lot of other forums. This is a little more concise...

[84 CJ7]

Thanks for the further updates. TWMATTOX, that was an excellent write up and will help me greatly with this issue. I don't wheel this jeep hard, mostly just a DD and a little mudding and climbing, definitely no rock crawling. I'll search the salvage yards for a SM465. If I can't find one cheep I'll take mine in. It isn't blown, I can still drive it around town, so I think the repair will be small.

This is a lot more helpful information than I could have imagined. This website is worth every penny.

Thanks again everyone.