Picked up a Cj7 this morning as I have been out of the Jeep game for about 10 years.
The VIN shows that it originally had a T4 where it currently has a 5 speed. I was told it was a T5. When placing the jeep in Reverse, the shifter is bumping the transmission cover. Before I break out my plasma cutter and clearance the hole bigger, any idea on why or why I should put my plasma cutter away?
CJ or YJ tub, no difference in the transmission tunnel opening as they are both the same. Are you sure it didn't have the T176 trans and not the T4 before? T176 cover plate is different and the VIN will only indicate 4 speed, 5 speed or Automatic.
You might have excessive slop in the shift handle where it attaches to the stub coming out of the top of the transmission and cause it to hit the cover plate. Or, transmission mount may be worn and is causing it to shift to one side or the other and causing alignment problems. In other words, put the Plasma cutter away and remove shifter boots and crawl under the Jeep and have a serious look before you start hacking away at it for nothing.
There is no boot. No idea if it was a t176.. I just figured T4. Yj tub on cj frame. The knuckle on the shifter just taps it. It goes into reverse just fine. The shifter is offset to the rear in the existing hole by about an inch towards 4 o'clock.
I would check the mount and see if that has caused it to move. Mine was all jacked up. If that is not the problem I would cut the cover. I made a replacement cover for mine anyway.
Agreed don't cut anything. First, post a picture of whats hitting, that will help alot. Plus someone can identify the trans tunnel cover and let you know if its a T4/T5/T176 cover. Knowing that may save you a lot of work. If it does turn out to be aT176 cover don't cut it. They for $50 + on ebay in good condition. I shopped for a bout 3 monthes and lost many auctions before I got mine.
The T4/T5 covers are less money and there are plenty on them out there.
Do you have a t-case drop or body lift? Those change the distance from the shift point and will increase travel of shifter at the opening.
My Jeep has a 1" tcase drop and 1" body lift supposedly with the glass tub, and my 4wd shifter kisses the cutout in 4-low when I line up the plate for the transmission cutout. I want to remove the tcase drop before I do any more cutting and see if that helps.
IF, you know for FACT, that the engine and tranny mounts are good.
Get under that Jeep, and make sure all the tranny, b'house'n, etc. bolts are tight.
Go ahead and trim about 1/2'-5/8".
How's the T'case shifter??
LG
You NEVER did answer my question about the condition of the engine and tranny mounts. WHY?
Those mounts control the engine and tranny position and the tranny mount is a known issue for just what you are seeing.
The P/S engine mount is also known for failure too. The failure of the P/S side engine mount and a weakened/torn t'mount will cause the engine/tranny to lean to the P/S, kinda like what you are seeing now.
Ok, I can see the skid plate. There are two bolts that come out from the bottom underneath the transmission. One is offset and I'm not seeing how it attaches to the transmission, the other maybe through the case. There is a bar that reaches across the skid plate that has a bolt in it (would be under the driver's seat). I'm not seeing anything else. All the bolts are tight.
I noticed today that the transmission really flexes during initial acceleration. I am guessing I have something loose. I have been trying to google images to see that I need to do, but I can't find anything. The transfer case appears to just be attached to the transmission with no other attachment to the frame? Does that sound right?
I am not a complete tool, although it really appears that way right now. I just don't see where else it would attach and I can't find pictures anywhere..
Thanks Keith.. My mount with the yellow arrow looks like crap.
The bushing is all dry rotted and I don't have the nut between the mount and the skid plate. I also don't have any of the washers on mine.
Looks like that might be my problem.
I pulled that bolt, and the two bolts that are under the transmission and couldn't budge the transmission when I tried to shift it forward. The bell housing is tight to the engine and the transmission. I don't really see how the transmission could move forward unless the entire engine moves forward.
I put all the bolts back and took it around the block. The transmission still clocks under load and then rests but not as bad as it had been before. I'll replace the yellow arrow bushing and bolt and see if that helps fix it.
That bushing, pointing with the arrow, prevents twisting of the drive train when accelerating and decelerating. It is normal for torque to move the transmission or twist it and that bushing prevents it from doing it to much. Without it, you will surely have your shift lever hitting the cover as you state.
I am pretty sure it is my torque'ing problem. It doesn't solve my rearward shift problem though. My motor mounts look like crap as well, so I am going to replace them and see if I can shift the whole assembly forward the 1" or so while I have it all apart.
Engine mounts and transmission mount locations are all dependent on what type of engine and transmission combo you have. Just trying to move it forward may not work for your combo as you must take in the account of drive shaft length and so on. There are certain holes in the frame and cross member that keeps everything in prospective.
I will replace the mounts and see where it sits. If none of the above fixes the offset, I guess I will just trim down my cover plate to correct the offset.
For what it's worth, I had the same problem when I replaced my T4 with a T5. I ended up trimming the cover and drilled new holes for the boot. I'm out of town right now so no pics, sorry.
Thanks brother.. mine is about an inch further to the rear. I pulled the cover and trimmed it down with my plasma cutter.
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