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Unread 09-03-2011, 06:23 PM   #1
quantumMechanic
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: peoria, il
Posts: 23
T4 & Dana 300 questions

I've pulled the T4 and D300 from my 84 CJ7. I'm pretty sure the rear seal on the transfer case leaks, and I wanted to replace my clutch fork/pivot as well. I've also found that a transmission mount and torque arm bushing were c-r-a-p.

What I'm curious of, is what to do now that both the T4 and D300 are out (and separate). Are there any other things I should do while I'm down this far? Is there a good way to clean the clustergear/mainshaft before I refill the transmission with oil?

thanks!



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Unread 09-03-2011, 08:38 PM   #2
mopar346
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1984 CJ7 
 
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Really shouldn't need to clean the counter shaft, input shaft or gear, I would however reseal the the transfer case, both outputs, the input, shift shaft seals and bottom cover. If the feel comfortable replacing the input and output seals on the trans I would do that as well. Replace the shifter bushing as well. Anytime I have a tranny out I will usually do the pressure plate, clutch disc, throw out bearing and pilot bushing just because unless they are very fresh.
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Unread 09-04-2011, 07:48 AM   #3
quantumMechanic
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I've got a fresh clutch and what nots, so I'm not too worried about inside the bellhousing... but in summary:

D300 input seal
D300 output sealx2
T4 input seal
T4 output seal
T4 shifter bushing -- will this shore up my shifter you think? what symptoms would I theoretically see if this was overworn?

thanks again!
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Unread 09-04-2011, 07:58 AM   #4
mopar346
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Those shifters are loose buy nature from what I have seen, but the new bushing will make it the best possible, also make sure the rubber insert is not worn too much. I have also seen people drill a hole through the shifter shaft and shifter handle and install a bolt and nut to give it a better feel. I didn't see shift shaft seals (2) and a bottom pan gasket for the t-case on your list, I would replace those as well and do a visual on the internals of the t-case while you have the pan off.
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Unread 09-05-2011, 11:16 AM   #5
agear
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My jeep looked like yours when I took mine out the other week. I would lay out some plastic bags or cardboard , put your skid plate on and take an window/frost scraper and scrape the 1/16 " of grit and grease then spray it down with brake cleaner. And you'll be good to go. Maybe spray with some semi gloss black or flat black to cover up any bare metal or rust spots. It doesn't take that long
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 09-05-2011, 11:28 AM   #6
agear
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You might be able to install new springs and detent balls. You should get crisp shifts from that. If you have a local library see if they have the jeep cj rebuilders manual 1972 1986 by moses ludel . That's a good book. If you decide to do it write down what the steps you took when disassembling are so you know when you put it back together you did it right. For example i turned right hand shift rod 1/2 turn counter clockwise then pulled out 1/2 way and turned it clockwise 1/2 turn and pulled rod out completely. And take note which gear the shift fork and sleeve are on and so on. like that. You should do that.

I think all you need to do is remove the transfer case bottom cover and you'll see 2 allen head set screws that go through the each shift fork carefully loosen those smoothly with out breaking them also take pictures of everything you're messing with as they were before you started moving things then do as I said write down what you're doing as you take it apart.
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 09-05-2011, 06:25 PM   #7
ejeeperguy
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I say the same seals front and rear .they don't cost anything and done.I would do the ones on the difs too.while you have it dropped out open the 300 and check it out replace anything that is worn out.
If you ever thought to put a twin stick in for your t case now is the time to do it too.
I would change out the uni joints too.Your there anyway and they will be new from there on.
Happy Wheelling!
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Unread 08-27-2013, 04:18 AM   #8
fishdvm
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T4 output shaft seal replacement

Hello everyone,

I'm very new to the forum , so please excuse my ignorance if this is the wrong way to ask this question.

I am pretty confidant that the output shaft on my T4 has a bad seal. I was wondering if anybody out there knew if I could replace that seal with the tranny still in my CJ7? It seems to me, I could pull the T-case (Dana 300) without too much trouble, and then still have enough access at the rear seal on the T4 to R&R. I guess I was just thinking this would be easier than pulling the T-case, tranny, and clutch/bellhousing and doing the seal on a bench...
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Unread 08-27-2013, 03:56 PM   #9
agear
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You can try your luck on the page were on presently or you can go here...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/

And click on New Thread toward the top left of the page.
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 08-27-2013, 04:20 PM   #10
walkerhoundvm
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You don't have to pull the clutch/bellhousing. In my opinion, it's probably better to pull the tranny/tcase as a unit using a transmission jack. You can get them at Harbor Freight for about $100, and they make things way easier than trying to do the job "on the hoof."
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Unread 08-28-2013, 06:44 PM   #11
fishdvm
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"On the hoof" -- I like that. Thanks for the tips and advice. I've got a tranny jack, and it seems most people are in agreement that pulling the tranny/tcase as a unit is the way to go.
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