T176 hard to get into 2nd gear. - Page 4 - JeepForum.com
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post #46 of 86 Old 11-04-2013, 03:00 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Damn. Im sure they're one or the other because i got them at quadratec.

If these shift fork lugs don't fix my hard to get in gear problem. I'm thinking about ordering new mainshaft parts because that seems to be the issue. I only have a week to fix this ,while on vacation so I cant wait to find out if that is the issue or not


1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #47 of 86 Old 11-04-2013, 06:26 PM
shadoow
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here's link on shift fork install and info for a T176 that may help

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/t-...stall-1328514/
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post #48 of 86 Old 11-04-2013, 06:43 PM
GTNMUDY
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So from what I read the " Crown" is the one to buy

Larry

If it breaks once, shame on it. If it breaks again, shame on me.
Fix it right or better the first time.
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post #49 of 86 Old 11-06-2013, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Bob, if replacing the shift fork lugs and switching to a different lube doesn't fix my problem do you think replacing the mainshaft and 1st and 2nd gears , which are the ones with all the movement, will fix the problem ?

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #50 of 86 Old 11-06-2013, 08:10 PM
80cj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
Bob, if replacing the shift fork lugs and switching to a different lube doesn't fix my problem do you think replacing the mainshaft and 1st and 2nd gears , which are the ones with all the movement, will fix the problem ?
The simplest thing to do would be to try changing lubes. If it works, great. If not I would look at the excessive end play in the gears. Unless your mainshaft or gears are excessively worn or damaged, I can't imagine having to replace them. There must be some way of taking up the endplay, either with thrust washers or different thickness snap rings. Wasn't it you that I sent a snap ring to and was never received?
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post #51 of 86 Old 11-07-2013, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
agear
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The simplest thing to do would be to try changing lubes. If it works, great. If not I would look at the excessive end play in the gears. Unless your mainshaft or gears are excessively worn or damaged, I can't imagine having to replace them. There must be some way of taking up the endplay, either with thrust washers or different thickness snap rings. Wasn't it you that I sent a snap ring to and was never received?
Okay , I will try the stalube from napa. Yes , you sent me the snap ring and actually I did receive it. I still have it. I was able to make my old one ,that I had bent, work. I doubt that my gears are worn or damaged. You know what , my 1st gear has as much play as my 2nd gear . I'm wondering if my chiltons manual left out a couple of thrust washers in the instructions.

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #52 of 86 Old 11-08-2013, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Okay. I replaced the 1st /2nd gear shift fork and the 3rd/4th shift fork lug and went for a test drive. Shifting into 1st and 2nd gear doesn't feel any better. Like I said I replaced the 1st /2nd gear synchronizer assembly a year ago. I'm wondering if there is an issue with that.???? gonna try the sta lube tomorrow

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #53 of 86 Old 11-08-2013, 10:08 PM
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Try the GL-4 and see what happens.
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post #54 of 86 Old 11-09-2013, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
agear
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went to napa......... the gear oil they had was both gl4 and gl5............

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #55 of 86 Old 11-09-2013, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Okay. I found some sta lub api gl4 85w -90 is the weight okay ?

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #56 of 86 Old 11-09-2013, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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Alright. I put the gl4 85w90 sta lube in there. No dice. Sucks. Guess I'll be pulling it down winter vacation. Maybe I have a 1st /2nd synchronizer assembly spring in the wrong place or left out a washer on the mainshaft.

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #57 of 86 Old 11-09-2013, 07:28 PM
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I would look into the excessive gear endplay.
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post #58 of 86 Old 11-09-2013, 07:38 PM Thread Starter
agear
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I'm sure the front ball bearing was installed all the way on the clutch/input shaft but could it be I installed 1 or both of the ball bearings incorrectly that would allow me to assemble it and drive it but cause problems ?

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #59 of 86 Old 11-22-2013, 02:53 PM Thread Starter
agear
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Hey bob, I bought a new mainshaft and 1st gear(2nd gear was on backorder)and snapings. I fitted my old 1st/2nd synchronizer assembly,1st gear, and snap ring on the shaft. I get the same amount of movement there as my first gear in my t176 in my jeep has. So I'm thinking there's a problem with my new 1st/2nd synchronizer assembly I put in last time I had the tranny out last year.......what do you think

1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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post #60 of 86 Old 11-22-2013, 07:37 PM
John Strenk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
I'm sure the front ball bearing was installed all the way on the clutch/input shaft but could it be I installed 1 or both of the ball bearings incorrectly that would allow me to assemble it and drive it but cause problems ?
I think the groove for the snap ring in the front bearing is offset so if you put it in wrong, You would never be able to put the front bearing retainer on.
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