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Unread 11-02-2013, 06:58 PM   #31
GTNMUDY
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Check this thread for a T-176 that had somewhat same issues.


http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/t1...essed-1548844/

Larry

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Unread 11-02-2013, 07:23 PM   #32
agear
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Okay , I read the thread. so replacing that synchronizer assembly spring, which was too short, allowed the tranny to spin freely again.
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 07:35 PM   #33
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The reason I posted this thread was that there is a wealth of exploded views and info.

It may not FIX your issue but it can't hurt giving you info about the T-176

I have rebuilt my T-176 20 years ago. It really was easy to do as long as you reassemble it correctly.

Good luck.

Larry
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Unread 11-02-2013, 07:39 PM   #34
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Yeah I rebuilt this t176 a year ago along with a dana 300. Before that I rebuilt a different dana300. I was very good about notes and details when I rebuilt the first dana 300 but when I rebuilt the t176 and that dana 300 not as much. Wondering if I overlooked something.
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 08:09 PM   #35
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The 1/16 " or so of end play is excessive. Hate to suggest this but I think you need to tear into it and troubleshoot that.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 08:34 PM   #36
agear
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I don't remember seeing anything out of the ordinary as far as wear goes....... That would be a ton of wear to cause that much play. Or I guess it could be a snap ring or washer issue . I remember when rebuilding there was a part of the instructions that didn't make sense to me.
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 09:02 PM   #37
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I'm willing to do that. I gotta be able to figure this out and fix though. I don't know how I'm gonna do that besides buying a new mainshaft assembly or something.
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 09:08 PM   #38
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Replace everything except the case. That would cost well over 1,000 bucks. And I paid 800 for the transmission. That's what I should have done in the first place. ha

I doubt the specs of the width of the gear and how much play it should have , available except at 3rd-4th synch asssembly.

I'm such an idiot. LOL
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Unread 11-03-2013, 08:51 AM   #39
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Agear,

Didnt mean to insult you when I refered you to the other thread. Didnt know your mechanical background.

The person that started that thread had no T-176 backgound, but was able to figure it out with help.

Larry
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Unread 11-03-2013, 09:53 AM   #40
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Oh you're fine. I wasn't offended or mad. I just want to make this tranny right. I just took apart the shift tower and found that a couple of the shift lugs were very worn. They may be why it's popping out of gear. It sure looks that way. Let me see if I can get a picture
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 11-03-2013, 12:23 PM   #41
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here are some pics of the lugs. You can see the reverse rocker arm assembly thing hitting the side of the case. It can move side to side. With that amount of wear on the 1st-2nd gear shift fork lug making the stick shift kick out more before shifting the synchronizer assembly , you don't think that it make shift harder ?
1st pic is the reverse rocker arm assembly. I would say this wear is what is allowing the stick shift to get lost outside the lugs. I believe you shift into gear and then the stick shift slides out of the lugs and you get stuck in gear.
2nd 3 pics are the 1st-2nd shift fork lug
3rd 3 pics are the 3rd-4th shift fork lug
shift-fork-lug-4-.jpg

shift-fork-lug-5-.jpg

shift-fork-lug-6-.jpg

shift-fork-lug-7-.jpg

shift-fork-lug-8-.jpg

shift-fork-lug-9-.jpg

shift-fork-lug-10-.jpg

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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 11-03-2013, 02:00 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
here are some pics of the lugs. You can see the reverse rocker arm assembly thing hitting the side of the case. It can move side to side. With that amount of wear on the 1st-2nd gear shift fork lug making the stick shift kick out more before shifting the synchronizer assembly , you don't think that it make shift harder ?
1st pic is the reverse rocker arm assembly. I would say this wear is what is allowing the stick shift to get lost outside the lugs. I believe you shift into gear and then the stick shift slides out of the lugs and you get stuck in gear.
2nd 3 pics are the 1st-2nd shift fork lug
3rd 3 pics are the 3rd-4th shift fork lug
i would safely say your problems are lying in the shift forks themselves. i have found that the t176 has a common problem with excessive wear to said brass forks. they are very easy to replace and i would suggest doing so along with new shifter and shift kit. i personally have rebuilt both on my old 81 cj5 and my 84 cj7 and it makes a world of difference and the forks themselves are not expensive. also i would check the alignment of the tower with the synco, ect. if there not in place correctly it will bind up and not make it shift right either just some thoughts
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Unread 11-03-2013, 02:16 PM   #43
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Yeah, I ordered some shift fork lugs detent balls, interlock springs(if they have them in stock), and a reverse rocker arm so I'll be replacing those next weekend.............
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 11-04-2013, 09:20 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by 90lsturbo View Post
i would safely say your problems are lying in the shift forks themselves. i have found that the t176 has a common problem with excessive wear to said brass forks. they are very easy to replace and i would suggest doing so along with new shifter and shift kit. i personally have rebuilt both on my old 81 cj5 and my 84 cj7 and it makes a world of difference and the forks themselves are not expensive. also i would check the alignment of the tower with the synco, ect. if there not in place correctly it will bind up and not make it shift right either just some thoughts
Where did you get your new forks? I've read of major issues with Omix/Crown. Any other source?

http://www.cj-8.com/forum/showthread...263#post213263
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Unread 11-04-2013, 10:20 AM   #45
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God, I wish I never had found this thread.

After driving my CJ today, I noticed it was shifting hard into 1 and 2nd gears while rolling.

It's been 120K on the last rebuild, guess I'm going to be doing the same.

This is the second post I have read that someone indicated the new forks wont work correctly.

Interested in the answer that WM69 asked about another source for forks.

Larry
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