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Unread 10-26-2013, 06:26 PM   #1
agear
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T176 hard to get into 2nd gear.

It's hard to get my t176 into 2nd gear. You might describe it as feeling very tight putting it in 2nd gear. I don't think it's synchronizers because it is a recent rebuild. My mechanic friend believes its in the shift tower ,where the shift rails and forks attatch. I hope so ,because rebuilding the shift tower doesn't require me removing the tranny from the vehicle. Anybody know what is causing this ?

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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 10-26-2013, 08:20 PM   #2
agear
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It only seems to do it when moving. So my b.i.l. was thinking synchronizer but I also had it get stuck in gear so he was also thinking shift tower parts(shift rails etc.). So basically I still don't know what it is. Looks like I might be taking the tranny out during winter vacation.
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 08:42 AM   #3
Dborns
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I would start by taking the tower off and take a few pics of the shift forks and the gears. Then you can post those here so maybe someone can spot something that doesn't look right.

I had a similar situation with my 176 and it was the 3-4 synchro plates. They were worn and popped halfway out of the assembly causing it to stick in third gear. It was very hard to shift out of that, (to the point of feeling like I was going to bust something), and I had to remove the tower to push them back into place. After doing that, if I wasn't driving, it would shift just fine, but as soon as I had it running and shifted they popped out again. It took a rebuild to keep it from doing that again, but the plates can also be bought and replaced individually. You said it had a recent rebuild so I would think those would have been replaced and it doesn't sound exactly like your situation, but something to check. The plates are #17 on the diagram here:
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-tr...-t176-t177.htm
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Unread 10-27-2013, 10:56 AM   #4
agear
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Hmmm . those plates are supposed to stay laying flat when you slide the collar/synchronizer hub assembly ?
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 11:03 AM   #5
Dborns
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That's correct. My 3-4 pack had one of the three plates popping out halfway jamming the trans in 3rd gear. Depending on how its sitting, you should be able to see 2 of the three plates to see if they are flush in the pack. You can run your hand under the pack to feel if that 3rd one is popped out.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 11:19 AM   #6
agear
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hmm.I wonder if you can push the collar too far causing a plate to pop up in that case too........?
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 11:23 AM   #7
80cj
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Agear, you say it happens only while moving? So when stationary it shifts ok? Not a lube problem?
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Unread 10-27-2013, 11:26 AM   #8
agear
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Yeah, it only happens when I'm movin............ It's fine when stationary. It only does it in 2nd , so that wouldn't be a lube problem ,right ?
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 12:41 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
Yeah, it only happens when I'm movin............ It's fine when stationary. It only does it in 2nd , so that wouldn't be a lube problem ,right ?
I dunno. What are lube you using?. There are several people I know of that had their balky shifting problems solved by going to a GL-4 lube.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 12:45 PM   #10
agear
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Im using amsoil synthetic 80-90..... gl-5
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 01:28 PM   #11
Shlomi
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Interesting. Ive had the same problem two days ago. My transmission has become stuck in 2nd gear, so i took the tower off, and tried to push the synch hub out of second, then I saw that one plate is missing, and the other two make the synch hub be stuck.
What could cause that? the synchro ring appeared on a pretty good condition to me.
By the way, it brought me a little desire to simply pull the other two plates out and see what happens
Basiclly, the shifter fork will hold the synch hub in gear, no?
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Unread 10-27-2013, 01:32 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
Im using amsoil synthetic 80-90..... gl-5
I've read that because Gl-5 lubes are formulated for LS diffs, some are too slippery for some manual transmissions. Manual transmission synchronizers require a certain amount of friction to work properly. You probably paid a decent price for that Amsoil synthetic lube but if I had your problem, I would try GL-4. For one thing, changing oil is easier than pulling things apart. NAPA carries the Sta Lube brand of GL-4. I just thought I would throw that out there. You make the decision.

Edit: Just curious. If you put the transfer case in neutral and run the engine, does the transmission shift normally?
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Unread 10-27-2013, 01:57 PM   #13
agear
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Actually got the amsoil for free so no problem with buying more.The tranny is also clunky going into 2nd. Interesting question. Anyway I put the transfercase in neutral and went through the gears. Yes it shifts normally. So what do you think ?
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 03:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agear View Post
Actually got the amsoil for free so no problem with buying more.The tranny is also clunky going into 2nd. Interesting question. Anyway I put the transfercase in neutral and went through the gears. Yes it shifts normally. So what do you think ?
Doesn't sound like a shifter problem and you probably don't have any problem with synchro shift plates.
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Unread 10-27-2013, 03:35 PM   #15
agear
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damn. Do you have an assembled t176 or an assembled t176 mainshaft. I want to see if you can check something.
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1984 jeep cj7, 258 I6, rebuilt T176,rebuilt Dana 300, amc 20 , dana 30, 4.10's Trac-lok in rear , 4.10's detroit soft locker in dana 30, 2.5 inch bds suspension lift, 1 inch polyurethan body mount lift. Line ex. weber carburetor. factory tach. factory clock ,oem replacement speedomter cluster, and oil pressure gauge, factory volt gauge.
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