T-150 in my CJ-5 Changed for the worse after lube change - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 7 Old 06-02-2013, 10:39 AM Thread Starter
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T-150 in my CJ-5 Changed for the worse after lube change

I changed the gear oil in my T-150 / Dana 20 from whatever contaminated lube that sat in it for 14 yrs while resting in a barn to the Napa 80-85-90, based on the recomendation of a friend. It used to shift fine to all but 3rd, where it would bind and give a little grind, but you could always get it into gear.
Now, after the lube swap, it won't go into reverse or first, from a standstill, just 2nd and eventually third. Can anyone recommend a lube change, if that's my issue? I'm planning on a tranny rebuild, but I dont have the coin right now. Thanks for any help.

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post #2 of 7 Old 06-02-2013, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
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Update- removed the fill plug on the transfer case and out came nearly a quart of lube! I tested the shifter and it went easily into all gears. Started it up to test it and it went back to not letting me get it in to gear. What did I do wrong besides overfilling and unnecessarily adding oil thru the port at the top side of the tranny?
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post #3 of 7 Old 06-02-2013, 12:01 PM
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1979 CJ7 
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Sounds like a synchro tab has come loose and is blocking gears...

I've got a t150 for sale cheap with a Dana 20. $100.....

I ran it for awhile.

T150 has good gears, if I remember correctly the third gear synchro was a little warn but still shifted ok.

Gears are good in Dana 20.

I'm I am paducah ky 42001
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post #4 of 7 Old 06-02-2013, 12:09 PM
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1977 CJ5 
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I recently went thru a couple t150 rebuilds. All the research I found is you must use only GL-4 gear oil for the brass synchros in the T150s. Amsoil has it for around $15 a qrt.
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post #5 of 7 Old 06-02-2013, 01:36 PM
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1985 CJ7 
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I started using BG Products Synchro Shift II. It's synthetic, 75W-80 equivalent, and GL4. $11 a quart. It smoothed up the functioning of my T5 considerably.
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post #6 of 7 Old 06-02-2013, 10:03 PM
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I use sta-lube gl-4 from Napa. Cost about $20 a gallon when I got it last. If your issue is only the syncro rings they are very cheap compared to a complete rebuild kit. When I finally got around to replacing mine the teeth were completely gone and it was just a brass ring and yet it would still shift grind free if you took your time and shifted it just right. I've had the new rings in for a good 10 years and it shifts smooth as butter.
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post #7 of 7 Old 06-03-2013, 12:21 AM
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Before you get too carried away with lube have you checked the clutch is disengaging fully?

Put it in reverse, put in the clutch and start the engine. When you let up the pedal does it start to bite before 1/2 way up?

BagusJeep lives in Bali.

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