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Unread 05-16-2011, 11:17 PM   #16
peterson8072
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1969 CJ5 
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Klamath Falls, Oregon
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CV Joints allow a rotating shaft to transmit power through a variable angle, at constant rotational velocity, without an appreciable increase in friction or play. They are mainly used in front wheel drive and all wheel drive cars. However, rear wheel drive cars with independent rear suspensions typically use CV joints at the ends of the rear axle half shafts.

There are two basic applications of CV joints, one near the wheel called the outboard joint and the other close to the transaxle known as the inboard joint.

They are also categorized according to there operating requirements. If a CV joint is fixed and does not move in or out with movements of the driveshaft it is known as a fixed CV joint. If the joint does move in and out, usually up to 40mm, it is known as a plunging CV joint.

http://www.pedders.com.au/products/57


Last edited by peterson8072; 05-16-2011 at 11:18 PM.. Reason: Site Sources
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Unread 05-16-2011, 11:19 PM   #17
firewalker909
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Here is a link to Tom Wood's driveshafts that explains it probably better than I can. If you use your stock single u-joint driveshaft, you will need to drop the t-case with a 4" lift and rotate the rear pinion up to align your driveshaft. Do a search for driveshaft angles on JeepForum and you will find some excellent explanations.

http://www.4xshaft.com/
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Unread 05-16-2011, 11:24 PM   #18
peterson8072
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ok so i know a CV joint helps the drive shaft run at a different angle, makes sense because of the lift. but (mind my noobyness) why if i'm adding lift and taller tires for clearance, would i lower the t case. better angle?
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Unread 05-16-2011, 11:27 PM   #19
peterson8072
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ok. disreegard the last post (because i dont know how to delete it..........THANK YOU GUYS SO MUCH! I KNEW THERE WAS A REASON I JOINED THE FORUM> YOU GUYS A A BIG HELP> REALLY APPRECIATE IT sincerely,
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Unread 05-17-2011, 02:34 PM   #20
tdkask
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There is no significant difference between a 3.5" and a 4.0", and you may get more out of the lift than suggested but settle in time. A good start for 33s would probably be a 2.5 lift, and a 1" body lift. If you get vibrations in the drivetrain from the suspension lift, do a 1" tcase drop. If you still get a little rubbing, do a small (1" or so) shackle lift. At hat point, you should stay within reasonable limits before you start the snowball effect. After much more you will need "CV" (double cardan) rear driveshaft to allow more degree of bend in your shaft, which will lead to needing shims or cut/reweld spring perches, etc etc... it just snowballs from there. Also, there are a lot of people who will tell you a little lift on medium sized (33s) in little to moderate wheeling is a great combo. You may not make it over the biggest boulder in the trail, but you could likely get anywhere you needed to, and go around that boulder, and enjoy your well mannered Jeep at a decent price. Also, there's a lot to be said for maintaining a low center of gravity for stability both on the highway and the trail.

Again, all of this is theory, since this is my first CJ and it came this way with huge shackles, probably 4" lift springs, and 1" lift body... and will be replacing my shackle to a reasonable height and deciding then whether to change or alter my springs from there.. I need a more reasonable ride stiffness and a little better handling.

Some of the spring companies I've heard recommended for a CJ are Rubicon Express, ProComp and ORV. Good luck and report back as it all goes.
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