[79cj7reny]

I'm trying to bleed my brakes. The whole system has been opened but the mc has not been off of the vehicle. I can't get the bypass needle opened on the prop. valve so this is what I'm doing per advice from this forum. I'll start w/ the RF then the LF, then RR then LR. Then I'll do the fronts again. I'm using a hand held vaccum pump and I've started w/ the RF. The problem is, I've already had to empty the little cup on the pump 5 times and I'm not seeing any improvement. Does that seem right?
Can there be that much air in the system? And since the mc has not been off the vehicle I shouldn't have to bench bleed it, right? Please help, I can't stand the thought of having him towed to a shop! Any thoughts?

[BESRK]

Should bleed brakes starting at farthest point and working toward MC.. RR, LR, RF and LF. I'm not positive, but I believe a proportioning valve won't send fluid to rear brakes unless it gets a little resistance.. that's why you push in that little nipple (hehe.. I said nipple on the internet ). Once you start to get resistance it'll allow fluid to continue. I've had luck raising the rear of my Jeep when it had some stubborn air bubbles in the lines. Back it up my 4 degree driveway and then raise the rear as far as my engine hoist will pick it up..

[79cj7reny]

The problem is that according to Chilton's, I have the "w" style prop valve. I have to hold the nipple.. ... out, not in. I know I can make a tool for it but there's not even enough of the NIPPLE to GRAB onto! I know normally I would start at the farthest from the mc but supposedly if you do it the way I stated above, it would center the prop valve.

[kavephish]

NIPPLE NIPPLE NIPPLE

[Later_THANKS]

Ditch the hand pump
They never can turely develop an enough sucking pressure. In other words they suck (GET IT)

Use one of these:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37201

You hook it up
Loose the brake nipple.
SLOWLY pump the break pedal and out comes air and fluid.

In 30 minutes you will be done.

Also doing in it this method requires no screwing (foreplay) with the nipple on the prop valve, unless you just like to play with nipples.

Remember SLOWLY pump the brake if not fluid will come out of the M/c resivor.

[80cj]

When I rebuilt all the brakes my Jeep, I bled the whole system the conventional way as Besrk said starting from the farthest wheel cylinder. Didn't have to screw around with the proportioning valve, etc. I tried using the hand vacuum pump but it sucks (!) Pumping the brake pedal and working each bleeder valve till no bubbles came out worked best for me. I was careful not to let the MC go dry.

[BESRK]

Have you pulled off the rubber cap to expose... the nipple? You can use needle nose vise grips to pull it out and hold it in that position.. be gentle though you don't want to damage the nipple.

[79cj7reny]

Yeah I tried the needle nose plier trick and promptly mauled the end of the (say it together now...) NIPPLE! I spoke to Van @ Vanco yesterday afternoon and he told me I don't need to worry about the prop. valve, just bleed it in the normal sequence.
He said to push the pedal down once, have someone open the bleeder, then feel for the pedal drop and then have helper close the bleeder. Do this twice at each wheel.
Crap!! As I'm writing this I'm watching my only neighbor leaving for Vermont for a month! Where's that plan B I had here somewhere?!

[Mr.Crowley]

speed bleeders..or do like I do and have the wife man the pedal..

[79cj7reny]

Yeah, the wife always asks if there's anything she can help me with. I may recruit her... she has no idea what she's gettin' herself into!