Super's 258/4.0 conversion build - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 64 Old 12-17-2012, 06:35 PM Thread Starter
supersport126
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Super's 258/4.0 conversion build

Figured I would start a thread on my engine build. some of you may already seen pictures, and many of you have already helped me out and I thank you guys.

About a year ago I picked up a running 258 with about 80k for 300 bucks. Stripped the motor down myself to save cash and learn a thing or two. I read as many 4.0 conversion articles I could find. After reading Tim Weavers article I decided to go for it. This is my first engine build by the way. Took the block to a highly regarded machine shop in my area and had them do the works,

Block bore and honed .30 over
Recondition rods, new pistons, rings, bearings, timing set, ect
crank grind
Comp Extreme 4X4 Cam and Lifters

Short block assembled came to 1380.00

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post #2 of 64 Old 12-17-2012, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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I started ordering parts for the conversion in what order I thought I would need them, first was a ARP head bolt kit from Summit part #112-3601. This was my first problem. This kit comes with 14 bolts all are 4.5" long. My stock 258 engine had 7, 4.5" and 7 shorter bolts @ 3.75".
For another 35 bucks they shipped out seven new bolts.
See the pic of stock head bolts next to the ARP kit, three are the shorter 3.75 (should be 7 but I cut the heads off 4 and used them as alignment studs)
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post #3 of 64 Old 12-17-2012, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Next was to find a head. After doing the math I decided to just get a clearwater head with the stainless valves. This was the start of alot of extra money blown out the window. First mistake was not telling clearwater what cam I was running. Their head is built to bolt on a stock 258, and would not work with my set-up. I had three choices, 1 send the clearwater head back, 2 swap out the already installed cam for something less extreme or 3 take this brand new, ready to bolt on head back to the machine shop to have it set up to my cam specs. I went with option 3. I had to have the spring pads dropped to lessen the spring pressure and the valve guides opened up a tad. yes they were to tight! They even called me up there to show me how tight they were so I didn't think they were screwing me. Another 240 bucks on top of the 550 I paid for the head!
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post #4 of 64 Old 12-17-2012, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
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Got the head bolted on last weekend. Ordered the cheap 100 stainless header from ebay and got it temp installed today. (not sure if I want to paint it or just bolt it on )
New water pump, fuel pump, case of oil, oil filter, spark plugs, thermostat and high temp engine paint @ autozone 120.00. Here is where progress is today:
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post #5 of 64 Old 12-28-2012, 06:29 AM Thread Starter
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worked a little overtime last week so now its time for a ignition system, I'm thinking going with a DUI...
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post #6 of 64 Old 12-29-2012, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Picked up a 4" round by 1/4" thick massive washer to cut out 5 new washers to bridge the now larger gaps between intake and exhaust manifold.

resizedimage_1356823919187.jpg
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post #7 of 64 Old 12-29-2012, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supersport126 View Post
Picked up a 4" round by 1/4" thick massive washer to cut out 5 new washers to bridge the now larger gaps between intake and exhaust manifold.
You can purchase thick heavy washer from McMaster-Carr.com in stainless that will do the job too. They are commonly called "Fixture Washers" or jumbo washers.

Here's what I used to replace the stock bell shaped washers between the intake and exhaust manifolds:




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post #8 of 64 Old 12-29-2012, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
supersport126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post

You can purchase thick heavy washer from McMaster-Carr.com in stainless that will do the job too. They are commonly called "Fixture Washers" or jumbo washers.

Here's what I used to replace the stock bell shaped washers between the intake and exhaust manifolds:
Great info thanks, I'll check them out.
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post #9 of 64 Old 01-08-2013, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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Today got some goodies in the mail! Motor mounts, flex plate for the auto and this beautiful baby


temp-032.jpg

And for another 89 bucks lol


temp-034.jpg
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post #10 of 64 Old 01-10-2013, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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Q: Where is number one on the DUI distributor?
A: No particular terminal on the DUI is designated as number 1. When you bring your number one cylinder up to top dead center on the
compression stroke, you can drop the distributor in and point the rotor toward any terminal that you want to make number one. Once
you establish which terminal on the cap is number one, follow your firing order from that point.
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post #11 of 64 Old 05-20-2013, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Getting things going
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post #12 of 64 Old 06-07-2013, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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some more progress.


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post #13 of 64 Old 06-08-2013, 11:10 AM
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Looking good. Where did you get that shifter from? Interesting on an auto
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post #14 of 64 Old 06-08-2013, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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Shifter is a Lokar
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post #15 of 64 Old 06-09-2013, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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Got the motor installed yesterday but the transmission wont mount to the skidplate. I must be missing something, remember I went from a manual to auto so the mount must be different. right now the trans mount is about 2-3 inches to high IMO. with skid plate bolted to frame the trans wont even come down to touch it cause the engine hits the fire wall as it tilts down. Any help would be appreciated. I'm gonna do some research today and see what I got wrong
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