I know i may be destroying the "character" of my jeep if i switch to front disk brakes, however i would rather destroy and little bit of character than rear end a cop or Mercedes or something. Anyway my question does anyone know of a good conversion kit for Disk brakes?
I found this after a short google search URL="http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/75A5498A0A0.aspx"]http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/75A5498A0A0.aspx[/URL] but i figured i would rather get some input from real people who have actually done this before. Thanks in advance for the input.
I'm not a fan at all of those SSBC conversions. You can piece your own disc setup for a fraction of the cost and then you'll know what pads to get at the local parts store when you need new ones. Find a later model disc brake CJ Dana 30 and steal the parts from that.
On my '75 I used Dana 44 caliper stands and calipers with '78 CJ rotors. This method required machining the back side of the wheelbearing hubs to be flat for the rotor mounting as well as some grinding of the knuckles to allow the calipers to slide as the pads wore. It's easier just to use everythign from the knuckle out from a later CJ.
I used Chevy mounting brackets and calipers on both my Dana 30 and my Dana 44 with 1978 rotors from a cj. I had to make some spacers for the 44 and find some flexible lines as well as machine the rear hubs to fit the rotors. It really wasn't too bad; and all parts are over the counter.
I found a Dana 30 axle and i plan on getting it this weekend as soon as a truck to go get it. (why dont i of all people have one) But my next question was if i had to do anything to the master cylinder since i will now be using disk in the front and drum in the back. I read on one site where it said i had to block the proportioning valve for the front, now disk brakes. Is this correct?
The prop. valve doesn't need to be touched. The braking bias remains the same whether the front brakes are drum or disc.
You do need to remove the residual pressure valve out of the front output of the master cylinder. This will be the port closest to the firewall. Remove the line going into it and inside you'll see the brass seat. Lightly screw a sheetmetal screw into the center hole just enough that it will grab the seat and pull it out when you pull on the screw. Behind that is a rubber piece and a spring. Remove both. Clean up the center hole on the seat that you removed so it's smooth and put it back in the master cylinder. Thread the hard line back in.
Brake drums require some pressure in the lines to keep the springs from retracting the shoes too far away from the drums. You don't want this pressure with discs as it will make your pads rub constantly against the rotors.