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Unread 09-29-2002, 02:35 PM   #1
derm
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Location: columbus,ohio
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stupid rookie questions

just to start thanks to all who have replied to me so far in helping me restore my 78cj5, this forum has been more helpful than any manual, i have a few questions and apologize if they are trivial
1. my manual says my heat riser valve is part of the exhaust manifold and needs lubed(258) what does this look like and can i just spray pb blaster on it
2. is the tube from my front diff going up near the headlight the filler tube?
3. how do i go about identifying my carb?the carter was standard but this carb has been rebuilt once,may not be original, are there numbers on them to id them?
4. there is a soft knocking noise for 20-30 secs after i shut the motor off, the motor is quiet with no extra revs, anybody have a thought?
5. i am going to be replacing the rear diff(20) gasket and cylinder head gasket(cork) soon, do they need sealant or anything special? do all gaskets need a sealant, and if so what is recommended?
thanks for your time, derm

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Unread 09-29-2002, 03:38 PM   #2
Bulletproofcj7
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#1 The heat riser is the small round can on the air filter intake horn that contains a butterfly disk, this disk needs to be able to turn on its axle ( thin wire that goes through it and into the sides of the air horn.

#2 That tube is only the vent tube, it would take a hell of a long time to fill the diff up that way, but i suppose it could be done.
In order to fill the diff ,there is a plug on the front of the cover that is the fill point.

Strong suggestion: get yourself a good jeep manual, "haynes" or "chilton" are good. These will answer most of these questions!

#3 I cant help you much here, there are numbers on the carb.

#4 Need more info on this, could be the engine "diesling" keeps running for short time after its turned off. The fan continues to spin after the motor is shut off, etc.

#5A the sealing surfaces of the diff and cover need to be cleaned of any oil and old sealant etc. and use an oil resistant gasket sealant ( i think most are) like black "rtv"
#5B The "cork" gasket is NOT the head gasket but is the valve cover gasket. see #5A , if your jeep has the plastic valve cover and it only leaks a little oil, then save your money! if you install a new gasket .....it will leak! They leak! its just a bad design. buy yourself a metal valve .here is a link to one of many jeep parts catologs out therehttp://quadratec.com/

The head gasket is an entirely different type of gasket! Like I mentioned earlier, get yourself a jeep manual! it will answer many of your questions.
Good luck
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1982 cj7. Frame off. shell valley kevlar body, stainless hinges, Bestop seats and supertop, KC titanium lights, Homemade swing out tire carrier with spare front wheel bearings/hub, Built 304,DUI,Edelbrock shorty headers with dual stainless 21/2 tubes into incynerator cans 21/4 dumped out the back,Edelbrock 600cfm, performer intake and cam, Borgeson lower column, Centerforce clutch, NV-4500, Dana 300 w/custom built twin stick, Homade 1/4" steel skid plate, 2.5 soft ride w/ 1" shackle lift, 33x12.5 mtr's. Stainless fuel and brake lines, Braided hoses. more...

Last edited by Bulletproofcj7; 09-29-2002 at 03:45 PM..
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Unread 09-29-2002, 03:41 PM   #3
Bulletproofcj7
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I just reread your post and it sounds like you already have a manual! (DOH!)maybe you need a better one as i mentioned above!?
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1982 cj7. Frame off. shell valley kevlar body, stainless hinges, Bestop seats and supertop, KC titanium lights, Homemade swing out tire carrier with spare front wheel bearings/hub, Built 304,DUI,Edelbrock shorty headers with dual stainless 21/2 tubes into incynerator cans 21/4 dumped out the back,Edelbrock 600cfm, performer intake and cam, Borgeson lower column, Centerforce clutch, NV-4500, Dana 300 w/custom built twin stick, Homade 1/4" steel skid plate, 2.5 soft ride w/ 1" shackle lift, 33x12.5 mtr's. Stainless fuel and brake lines, Braided hoses. more...
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Unread 09-29-2002, 04:11 PM   #4
derm
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thanks for the advice, i think i am a better learn by doier than learn by reading, hopefully i wont spend too much money as a result, ps i knew it was the valve cover, i was watching the browns-steelers game and my brain was shorted to ground as a result, derm
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Unread 09-29-2002, 04:14 PM   #5
derm
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as for the knocking, nothing in the engine compartment is visibly turning, this is a soft knock best heard near the firewall,passenger side of engine, the engine has idling issues that i will address at some point and i hope that fixes it, i will let you know, derm
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Unread 09-30-2002, 10:38 PM   #6
Bulletproofcj7
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http://www.carbs.net/
this site may help you with your carb I.D.
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1982 cj7. Frame off. shell valley kevlar body, stainless hinges, Bestop seats and supertop, KC titanium lights, Homemade swing out tire carrier with spare front wheel bearings/hub, Built 304,DUI,Edelbrock shorty headers with dual stainless 21/2 tubes into incynerator cans 21/4 dumped out the back,Edelbrock 600cfm, performer intake and cam, Borgeson lower column, Centerforce clutch, NV-4500, Dana 300 w/custom built twin stick, Homade 1/4" steel skid plate, 2.5 soft ride w/ 1" shackle lift, 33x12.5 mtr's. Stainless fuel and brake lines, Braided hoses. more...
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Unread 10-01-2002, 07:00 AM   #7
derm
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thanks! that site is perfect, derm
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