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Unread 06-01-2014, 01:13 PM   #16
RenoF250
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Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
The empty plug is for the hardtop I think. The taillights use that black wire for their ground. The brake and signal element use the bolts. I run a booster cable from the battery to the fixture to verify the ground for a test.

Maybe the bulbs are just blown out? Rusty bolts or hole threads will do it though.
The brakes were not working because the brake switch was stuck from the sandblasting sand. Took it out and blew it out good and they work now. Now just turn signals.

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Unread 06-01-2014, 02:57 PM   #17
RenoF250
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Looks like the flasher went bad for the turn signals. It passed continuity but is only 60 ohms. Jumpered it and turn signals work but are on constant.
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Unread 06-01-2014, 11:03 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by RenoF250 View Post
Looks like the flasher went bad for the turn signals. It passed continuity but is only 60 ohms. Jumpered it and turn signals work but are on constant.
New flasher fixed it. Back up lights don't seem to be working but I suspect some tranny connector shinanigans.
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Unread 06-05-2014, 10:25 AM   #19
RenoF250
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Took it out for its first high speed run and it hit around 4k and got nasty. I let off immediately and it still seems to run the same. Valve float? I used the stock springs, that may not have been a good idea. I really have no interest in having it much above 3,500 though anyway. I was just running it though the gears once.

Hot idle oil pressure is down to 40 psi and oil temp is down to 185. Seems to be quieter and less aggressive now, perhaps I am just getting used to it. I will probably take it for another short run later today and then change the oil with more Lucas break-in oil and then run that for 1k of so.
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Unread 06-05-2014, 11:13 AM   #20
Mike Romain
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I ran my stock engine after the nutter bypass up to 4400 rpm and then it fell flat, that was it. I was told by a good Jeep shop it was a spring float thing.
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Unread 06-05-2014, 11:18 AM   #21
RenoF250
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Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
I ran my stock engine after the nutter bypass up to 4400 rpm and then it fell flat, that was it. I was told by a good Jeep shop it was a spring float thing.
This sounded a little nasty, I am not going up there again. 4k is a bit low but this cam is more aggressive than the stock and those springs have some miles on them. The machine shop did check them and said they were fine though.
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Unread 06-05-2014, 12:08 PM   #22
RenoF250
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Was just talking to the friend that was here when we broke it in and we started wondering about the accuracy of the tach. Figured I would check it with the speedo. At 35 in 3rd it says I am turning 1,500, by my calcs that is wrong. I have 4.10 gears, 32" tires, and and AX-15 which is 1.44 in 3rd so it should be turning ~2,100. It is acting like the tach is set to 8 cyl but I checked it before I put it in and just checked it again and it is set to 6. I even moved the switch to the other 2 positions and then put it back in 6.

Anyhow, that would mean the float was at ~5,300 rpm which makes more sense. I would rather not have gone that high. Means we broke it in with too much rpm also. :

I guess the good part is that means it could have been the computer shutting it down since I see the Cherokee tach redlines at 5,300. Does the PCM do that?
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Unread 06-05-2014, 12:17 PM   #23
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What carb are you using on your 4.6? I just built one for a friend but have not installed it yet - maybe this weekend.
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Unread 06-05-2014, 12:19 PM   #24
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What carb are you using on your 4.6? I just built one for a friend but have not installed it yet - maybe this weekend.
No carb, it is the 4.0's EFI system. It is a 1994 setup, OBDI. It has larger 24.6 lb/hr injectors for the increased displacement.
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Unread 06-05-2014, 12:32 PM   #25
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Duh! I guess if I paid a little more attention to the photos I would have seen the TB and injectors. We are sticking with a carb. I have the stock replacement '78 258 carb and a 2bbl MC to choose from.
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'45 Ford GPW; '73 CJ5, 350/NP435/D20 w/Terlow gears, locked D30/D44; '13 CJ8, 304/T150/D20/D30/AMC20 w/locker and limited slip (T18 and Teralow gears in future); '88 Dodge RC, 360/NP435/NP205/D60s
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Unread 06-05-2014, 01:46 PM   #26
RenoF250
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Originally Posted by Knucklehead View Post
Duh! I guess if I paid a little more attention to the photos I would have seen the TB and injectors. We are sticking with a carb. I have the stock replacement '78 258 carb and a 2bbl MC to choose from.
I have to pass CA emissions so that was not an option for me.
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Unread 06-05-2014, 03:23 PM   #27
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Yeah, this stroker is going into a '74 CJ5 and no emissions.
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Unread 06-05-2014, 06:06 PM   #28
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The engine looks very sweet! Wish they had some of that knowledge more around my place....

let us know how it works out once you get everything dial in..
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Unread 06-12-2014, 08:48 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by RenoF250 View Post
Was just talking to the friend that was here when we broke it in and we started wondering about the accuracy of the tach. Figured I would check it with the speedo. At 35 in 3rd it says I am turning 1,500, by my calcs that is wrong. I have 4.10 gears, 32" tires, and and AX-15 which is 1.44 in 3rd so it should be turning ~2,100. It is acting like the tach is set to 8 cyl but I checked it before I put it in and just checked it again and it is set to 6. I even moved the switch to the other 2 positions and then put it back in 6.

Anyhow, that would mean the float was at ~5,300 rpm which makes more sense. I would rather not have gone that high. Means we broke it in with too much rpm also. :

I guess the good part is that means it could have been the computer shutting it down since I see the Cherokee tach redlines at 5,300. Does the PCM do that?
Well I think I have figured out the tach issue. I found this:
OPTIONAL: If you wish to install a tachometer or an engine light, the wires for these are already in the harness, located close to the relays. They will be hanging out of the harness. The tachometer wire is light gray with a yellow stripe. This is the tachometer trigger wire. The O.E. 81-90 Jeep tachometer WILL NOT work with this system. The tach wire switches a 5V signal two times per engine revolution. Set your aftermarket tach on the 4-cylinder scale to achieve a true RPM reading. Some tachs will not work with this 5V signal, or they may have needle flutter at low RPM. If this is the case, you will have to splice into the coil negative side to operate your tach. If you hook up to the coil, use the 6-cylinder setting on your tach. The coil negative side wire is gray. (Hook up the tach last, after the engine is running, because some tachs have a low impedance and will short the coil to ground. This will not harm anything, but will prevent the engine from running.)

So I switched the tach to 4 and it seems to match the speedo now. So that means it pooped out around 6k and we broke it in up to 4,500 rpm. I am not happy about that part. I would not have purposely rev'd it that high.
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Unread 06-13-2014, 11:01 AM   #30
jeepwhore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RenoF250 View Post
Well I think I have figured out the tach issue. I found this:
OPTIONAL: If you wish to install a tachometer or an engine light, the wires for these are already in the harness, located close to the relays. They will be hanging out of the harness. The tachometer wire is light gray with a yellow stripe. This is the tachometer trigger wire. The O.E. 81-90 Jeep tachometer WILL NOT work with this system. The tach wire switches a 5V signal two times per engine revolution. Set your aftermarket tach on the 4-cylinder scale to achieve a true RPM reading. Some tachs will not work with this 5V signal, or they may have needle flutter at low RPM. If this is the case, you will have to splice into the coil negative side to operate your tach. If you hook up to the coil, use the 6-cylinder setting on your tach. The coil negative side wire is gray. (Hook up the tach last, after the engine is running, because some tachs have a low impedance and will short the coil to ground. This will not harm anything, but will prevent the engine from running.)

So I switched the tach to 4 and it seems to match the speedo now. So that means it pooped out around 6k and we broke it in up to 4,500 rpm. I am not happy about that part. I would not have purposely rev'd it that high.
Yikes! Hopefully everything will be fine going forward. You probably won't have issues with valve float since you don't intend to hit those rpm's again, but if you want to upgrade the springs without breaking the bank you can use springs for a dodge magnum V8 (Federal Mogul/Sealed Power Part # VS1456). They can accommodate more lift than the stock springs but don't have the excess seat pressures the mopar performance and hesco springs do. The added benefit being you can use the stock 4L spring retainers and keepers.
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