post #1 of Old 05-31-2014, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
RenoF250
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1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Foresthill
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Stroker 4.6 holy crap!

I have been working on putting a 4.6 in my CJ7 and been to busy working on it to post pics. Anyway, the engine is in now and I took it for a little squirt around the block HOLY$%#$%@!!!! That thing has crazy power now, I can only go to half throttle because the throttle cable I have is incorrect and it keeps popping off but 1/4 is more power than the 4.2 and 1/2 throttle is crazy.

One thing I do not like though is the throttle pedal is now an RPM pedal, you hit it you go, you let off you stop so any messing with it makes for a jerky ride. I can smooth a lot of the out but when you hit bumps and it shakes you foot it is hard to avoid.

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post #2 of Old 05-31-2014, 01:20 PM
Mike Romain
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Stronger spring on the throttle comes to mind. The stock one even has double springs for this. When I broke one spring, mine acted like you describe.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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post #3 of Old 05-31-2014, 01:46 PM
swatson454
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Excellent!

Live in a way that those who know you but don't know God will come to know God because they know you.
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post #4 of Old 05-31-2014, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
RenoF250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
Stronger spring on the throttle comes to mind. The stock one even has double springs for this. When I broke one spring, mine acted like you describe.
Great idea, I have the springs from the 4.2. Right now it is just the spring in the throttle body.
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post #5 of Old 05-31-2014, 04:57 PM
gazzo
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Fancy putting up some pix and a but of a write up for us? Considering this for a stealth upgrade on my 7.

Gary (gazzo)

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/gazzos-cj10-truck-2185617/
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post #6 of Old 05-31-2014, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
RenoF250
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Here are some pics of before.
Attached Thumbnails
CIMG5422 (Large).JPG   CIMG5461 (Large).JPG  
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post #7 of Old 05-31-2014, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
RenoF250
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And after. The PS Pump was leaking fluid out the top buring break-in that is what is on the cowl. Also had a leaky coolant plug the machine shop apparently did not seal.
Attached Thumbnails
CIMG5556 (Large).JPG   CIMG5558 (Large).JPG  
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post #8 of Old 05-31-2014, 08:04 PM Thread Starter
RenoF250
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That air filter is just a temporary made with a $26 universal Spectre filter and some drain pipe. The Rock-It filter should be here next week. I decided to pay $26 for the Spectre instead of $60 for 2 day air shipping. Gives me a backup for the element on the Rock-It as well.

For some reason my brake and turn lights do not work. Once I figure that out I will put the roll cage back in. I also need to fix the pos battery cables. the lug is a bit beat up and the wire to the fuse box is a bit short.

I had to make that A/C delete bracket and used the idler from the 4.2 turned out to be able to use the original XJ belt so that is good.

My biggest problem on the whole thing has been the worthless piece of $%#$% @#$@!s at Jeep that decided they needed to use every fastener available. There is metric and standard right next to each other like on the starter and the engine mount. And worse than that all of the metric is so close to SAE you can screw it in a turn and a half or so. It would have saved me a lot of time if I had paid better attention taking it apart. I think I would get a bunch of ziploc bags and label them - engine mounts, PS Pump, Alternator, etc.

This took longer than the standard engine transplant because I sandblasted, phosphoric acid, and painted the body. Also fixed rusted spots at the roll bar mounts, cleaned out the bad seam sealer and resealed. 3M Ultrapro 8300 is good stuff. I resealed over half the tub with 1 and half tubes. It goes on pretty nice, dries fast, and paints well. The 3M "brushable" is crap, WAY too thick so I took it back. I might have gotten a bad can but I see no reason to use it since it costs the same and is not for interior use because of odor. Both need a respirator when you are putting them on unless you like sniffing glue.
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post #9 of Old 05-31-2014, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
RenoF250
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I put the fuel pump up behind the rear wheel well. I had a piece of sheet metal bent by an HVAC shop to cover it but have not installed yet.
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post #10 of Old 05-31-2014, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
RenoF250
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New Equis gauges. $50 for WT, OP, and Volt, $40 for tach, and then another $50 for air/fuel. I like how they look but not a great match with the existing. I am getting 50 psi at idle and 70 with any rpm. That is with cam saver lifters that leak some off to spray on the cam.
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post #11 of Old 05-31-2014, 08:19 PM Thread Starter
RenoF250
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Here are the spots I repaired, there is some angle welded in the wheel well as well.
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DS Repair.JPG   PS repair.JPG  
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post #12 of Old 05-31-2014, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
RenoF250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazzo View Post
Fancy putting up some pix and a but of a write up for us? Considering this for a stealth upgrade on my 7.
Just put up some pics. Let me know if you want any others in particular. I was also going to collect and post everything I bought and what it cost. Working on putting it in a spreadsheet now. I am afraid it will scare me.

Body is painted with Krylon Ultra Flat Olive camo. Black is Rustoleum truck bed liner except in the engine compartment which is just engine enamel.

I really like the truck bed liner for the interior. It is basically just a heavy duty paint but it can be clean off or touched up. After seeing all the places the body and seams can crack I would not put the regular heavy truck bed liner on it. Too hard to fix cracks after that has been put on. Also crack could allow water from underneath to get in and rust.
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post #13 of Old 06-01-2014, 04:50 AM
Mike Romain
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Your rear turn signals and brakes ground through the fixture bolts to work. Is your new paint interfering with this? Or did you miss the tub ground strap from the head to the firewall maybe?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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post #14 of Old 06-01-2014, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
RenoF250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
Your rear turn signals and brakes ground through the fixture bolts to work. Is your new paint interfering with this? Or did you miss the tub ground strap from the head to the firewall maybe?
I do not have the ground strap from head to firewall but there is a ground right off the battery to the tub. I also ran a separate ground for the 2 sensor and tied it to the dash as well. The dash lights work. There is a ring terminal on a black wire not connected but I connected it with clip leads to good ground and still no lights. I am wondering if I forgot to plugs something else in. There is a 4 wire connector that with a white orange and black that is not plugged in but nothing for it to plug into. The wire to the tail lights is plugged in and the tail lights work.
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post #15 of Old 06-01-2014, 11:32 AM
Mike Romain
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The empty plug is for the hardtop I think. The taillights use that black wire for their ground. The brake and signal element use the bolts. I run a booster cable from the battery to the fixture to verify the ground for a test.

Maybe the bulbs are just blown out? Rusty bolts or hole threads will do it though.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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