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post #1 of 15 Old 07-26-2002, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
crusty
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Question stripped starbolt?

I was taking out my windshield bolts(the ones on the hinge) to put on my new windshield frame and stripped out some of the starbolts one of them i'm going to drill out because it goes to the old windshield and its rust out so I dont need to be too carefull. But some of the ones that go to the body(bottom half of hinges) are stripped out too(I'm takeing them out to try to do something about the rust under them). My dad said to take a hammer and chessel and knock them loss. If this has happened to any one else what did you do to get them out?

Thanks for your help.


82 CJ-5 with 31" BFG AT
258 with WEBER carb.
and CLIFFORD head and
valve cover.

"RUST IS JUST CHARACTER!"
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post #2 of 15 Old 07-26-2002, 09:26 AM
Hooch
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Drilling out is an option, but you could also weld a nut on top of them. I've had a good success rate with this method in the past... Oh and ehhh, if possible try to soak the bolts with PB Blaster if you can get to them...

'83 CJ-7 in Land Rover Country

Last edited by Hooch; 07-26-2002 at 09:32 AM.
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post #3 of 15 Old 07-26-2002, 12:00 PM
mxg342
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If you have a welder that will definately be your best bet. Good luck....(I'm in the same situation right now without a welder handy) I know how you feel

Matt

'84 CJ-7 Junkyard TBI 360/T18/D300, 4" 4WDH Lift, D44 front with ARB and HS/D44 Rear w/ Detroit, 4.56s, 36" Iroks, TFI, TJ flares, Homemade rocker guards and bumpers with swing out, Optima Yellow Top, M8000, York OBA, 6pt cage
"when you're up to your *** in alligators, it is hard to remember that your original intention is to drain the swamp"
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post #4 of 15 Old 07-26-2002, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
crusty
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I have thought about welding a nut on them but didn't know if it would work. My dad is a welder so I might do that. I did get the old windshield off by drilling out one of the bolts. I fond out that the hinges are not held by bolts going in to threads like the windshield, but with nuts on the inside. which means I can drill out the ones I stripped, but I don't think it will matter much because I got the pasanger side hinge off and it was almost rust to the piont of haveing holes through it. I checked at a body shop and they said about $400 to put in new corners, he said to find a replacement panel,because it would be cheaper. DOES ANYONE KNOW IF ANYBODY MAKES JUST THE CORNERS OR THE WHOLE RAIL?

82 CJ-5 with 31" BFG AT
258 with WEBER carb.
and CLIFFORD head and
valve cover.

"RUST IS JUST CHARACTER!"
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post #5 of 15 Old 07-26-2002, 07:38 PM
OldJeepguy
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Quote:
Originally posted by crusty
I have thought about welding a nut on them but didn't know if it would work. My dad is a welder so I might do that. I did get the old windshield off by drilling out one of the bolts. I fond out that the hinges are not held by bolts going in to threads like the windshield, but with nuts on the inside. which means I can drill out the ones I stripped, but I don't think it will matter much because I got the pasanger side hinge off and it was almost rust to the piont of haveing holes through it. I checked at a body shop and they said about $400 to put in new corners, he said to find a replacement panel,because it would be cheaper. DOES ANYONE KNOW IF ANYBODY MAKES JUST THE CORNERS OR THE WHOLE RAIL?
I had to do quite a bit of metal replacement on my CJ - your dad's a welder so he can handle it. I bought 20 guage steel sheet and fabbed quite a few patches..

Check out my CJ resto at the link below.

CJ resto

Most of the repairs were done with 14 guage diamond plate - I replaced the whole bed and rear wheel wells

Last edited by OldJeepguy; 07-26-2002 at 07:42 PM.
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post #6 of 15 Old 07-28-2002, 10:48 PM
STRATAS 83 CJ-7
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iF I WERE YOU I WOULDENT WASTE YOUR TIME WITH BUYING NEW CORNERS , I RECENTLY BOUGHT A 83 CJ AND WHEN I TOOK OFF THE WINDSHIELD FRAME, I FOUND THERE WAS ABSOLUTLY NO METAL BEHIND THE HINGES, THE WINSHIELD WAS BEING HELD ON BY PAINT PRETTY MUCH. BUT WHAT I ENDED UP DOING WAS USING ANGLE IRON AND 1/8 IN STEEL PLATE TO FIX THE HOLES. FIRST I CUT A PIECE OF ANGLE IRON THAT WOULD BE ATACHED VERTICALLY FROM THE FLOOR TO THE TOP OF THE HINGE LOCATION. THE I USED 2 BOLTS TO SECURE IT IN PLACE WHICH I DRILLED UNDER WHERE THE SIDE WINDHIELD HINGE BOLTS GO. THEN I CUT A PIECE OF THE 1/8IN STEEL TO THE SHAPE OF THE HOLE BEHIND THE HINGE AND WELDED IT TO THE ANGLE IRON.(THEY WILL LOOK LIKE FLAG POLES WITH A FLAG ON THE TOP) NEXT I CAPPED THAT ALL OFF WITH THIN SHEET METAL AND SILICONE CAULK 2 MAKE IT WATER TIGHT. AND SMOOTHED OUT THE EDGES WITH SOME BODY FILLER. IT WORKED OUT PERFECT FOR ME AND LOOKS ORIGINAL. JUST TAKE YOUR TIME AND TEST FIT THE PIECES ALOT AND EVERYTHING WILL COME TOGETHER WELL. OH YAH, AND TO ATTACH THE WINDSHIELD BACK ON, INSTEAL OF TAPPING THE METAL AND MAKING THE TORX SCREW BACK IN, I USED REGULAR NUTS AND BOLTS TO SECURE IT ALL BACK TOGETHER SINCE I HATE TORX SO MUCH AND HAVE JUST ABOUT MADE MY WHOLE JEEP TORX FREE, IT JUST TAKES ALITLE PATIENCE TO GET THE NUTS STARTED IN THE TIGHT SPACE BEHING THE DASH, GOOD LUCK MAN.

1983 CJ-7 258ci 5spd 1.5 in lift,32x11.50 mud terrins, herculined tub interior(excellent product), custom led taillights,KILBY SFSS gas tank skid plate, kc 150w daylighters and other major driveline mods in the works. Also, im proud to say i have finally make my entire jeep "torx free" because those things are just such a pain in the @$$, they strip out to freekin easily!
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post #7 of 15 Old 07-29-2002, 05:44 PM
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Another option is going down to Pep Boys, or just about any automotive store and invest about $20 in a impact driver. It's the one that you place on the striped or frozen bolt and hit with a hammer. If you plan on doing a lot of work on your jeep, this will be a good tool to have in the box. It will save yo a lot of time, along with broken tools from using cheater bars.

1986 Renegade CJ7, 258 straight 6, 4 inch Pro Comp lift, 33 inch Super Swampers (TSL Radial), Double Trail Master steering stabilizer, cool set of aircraft seat restraints.
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post #8 of 15 Old 08-02-2002, 02:22 PM Thread Starter
crusty
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I finaly just used a drill to drill them out most of the way then used a rod and hammer to punch them out. the drivers side is not as bad but needs to be fixed too. the guy at the body shop (he owns a 70's cj-5) told me that I could take it to him get it sand blasted to chase so of the paint away along with the rust. Then he would spary some rust detorent stuff on it to help keep it sealed up some. then have my dad weld on the two peaces of sheat metal that I will have made for about $20, and grind them down aliltle (so that it wont take too long for labor). then take it back to him to finish grinding put some body puddy on it smooth it out and paint it (he said that labor would be about $400 depending on how much we do our selfs).

82 CJ-5 with 31" BFG AT
258 with WEBER carb.
and CLIFFORD head and
valve cover.

"RUST IS JUST CHARACTER!"
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post #9 of 15 Old 08-02-2002, 02:36 PM
NaeKid
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An old trick to removing stubborn bolts is:

1. Propane torch till the bolt and surounding metal is hot
2. Mash a stick of bees wax onto the bolt in such a way that the wax can soak through.
3. Use wrench to remove bolt
4. Repeat if desired.

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post #10 of 15 Old 08-05-2002, 06:10 AM
Guy Hollister
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Blimey ! Thats a bit of a black belt trick ! Do you have to throw salt over you shoulder and hop on one foot ?

g

1984 RHD CJ7
1979 LHD CJ5
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post #11 of 15 Old 08-05-2002, 11:31 AM
Hooch
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All these little tricks are fine providing you haven't already f@cked up the torx pattern in which case there is nothing to hold on to apart from welding a nut on top

'83 CJ-7 in Land Rover Country
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post #12 of 15 Old 08-06-2002, 07:58 AM
West
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Why is everyone so set against drilling them out? I had some stubborn blts on my windsheild frame so I took the drill to them and no more than 30 seconds per bolt and it was done. It would be a little more difficult with the windsheild frame bolts since you have to drill out the leftover bolt but since he's replacing that it won't matter
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post #13 of 15 Old 08-06-2002, 08:48 AM Thread Starter
crusty
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that is what I did, except on about 7 of them where i could get to them with a wrench on the inside to get them off.

82 CJ-5 with 31" BFG AT
258 with WEBER carb.
and CLIFFORD head and
valve cover.

"RUST IS JUST CHARACTER!"
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post #14 of 15 Old 08-06-2002, 08:58 PM
hollywood
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I just cut the nuts off the back with a torch. Of course my tub was in two or three pieces at the time, but it's still an option
It just depends how good you are with the 'ol smoke wrench.

- Jeff
'83 cj
Another 7 by "CJ's Heaven"
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post #15 of 15 Old 08-07-2002, 01:49 AM
80cj
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Quote:
Originally posted by NaeKid
An old trick to removing stubborn bolts is:

1. Propane torch till the bolt and surounding metal is hot
2. Mash a stick of bees wax onto the bolt in such a way that the wax can soak through.
3. Use wrench to remove bolt
4. Repeat if desired.
Never heard of using bees wax. Thats one I'll have to try some time, eh. I've heard of people soaking things in Coke to loosen rust frozen parts.
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