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Unread 05-17-2013, 09:57 AM   #1
offroadz
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Stripped Brake Bleeder Screws

Can't get a wrench to back it out now on both fronts(WTF!!)
Basically the part where you put the wrench on and loosen is now round.

Any advice is appreciated on how to get the rounded suckers out now.

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Unread 05-17-2013, 09:59 AM   #2
Stud_man50
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Vice grips or a good pair of channel locks with the extra teeth. If all else fails new calipers.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 10:07 AM   #3
offroadz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stud_man50 View Post
Vice grips or a good pair of channel locks with the extra teeth. If all else fails new calipers.
Thanks Stud!
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Unread 05-17-2013, 10:09 AM   #4
Renegade82
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Ditto that. Vise grips have always been the solution for me. Put anti seize on the new ones before you put them in. I also take a short piece (1") of clear hose that fits over the hex portion snug, and heat the end, then crimp it shut with pliers. It will melt shut. then push these over the bleeders to keep dirt and water away.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 10:59 AM   #5
offroadz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
I also take a short piece (1") of clear hose that fits over the hex portion snug, and heat the end, then crimp it shut with pliers. It will melt shut. then push these over the bleeders to keep dirt and water away.
Interesting...
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Unread 05-17-2013, 01:17 PM   #6
86cj74.2L
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Heat it cherry red with a propane or map gas torch. Then remove and put a new one in the hole while fluid is pushing out. It's the only way to do it without braking it off.

They are hollow. Putting anything on bigger then a 1/4 drive socket or box end wrench will give you enough torque to snap it off. Then its new caliper time.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 01:55 PM   #7
Renegade82
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You get it that hot and I'd be worried about melting the rubber piston seal. You could try some heat but I've never had one snap off with vise-grips on it. Clamp the vise grips on before you apply heat so they can help act as a heatsink.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 02:08 PM   #8
skizriz
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I've had to round them off ever farther with the vice grips, hammer a nut on to them, and put a zap of weld inside the nut to get them off.
It was a last ditch effort, and worked perfect.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 02:30 PM   #9
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82
You get it that hot and I'd be worried about melting the rubber piston seal. You could try some heat but I've never had one snap off with vise-grips on it. Clamp the vise grips on before you apply heat so they can help act as a heatsink.
I've never ever hurt anything. And garages do it that way too. I had a seized bleeder in my truck and that's how the garage I took it too got it loose for me. I figured I could do that good my self and been doing it that way ever since.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 03:12 PM   #10
hp_lovecraft
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A "new" caliper is only $15.

I had a nightmarish time getting some stuck bleeders out. I even tried hammering in a stuck-bolt extractor, and using a breaker bar.... which busted the extractor. I already had an issue with the piston sticking, and was surprised when remans were so cheap. Problem solved.

Note- All the local box-stores list the drivers side, as passenger, and the passenger side as driver.
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Unread 05-17-2013, 03:16 PM   #11
offroadz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hp_lovecraft View Post
A "new" caliper is only $15.
.

At that price, you won't see me going through more than 2 beers trying to get it out.
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Unread 05-18-2013, 01:28 AM   #12
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I would save the heat method for last or on the trail as a trail fix and then change it as soon as you can find another. No assisted heat on any brake parts my wife or son ride in.
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Unread 05-18-2013, 01:34 AM   #13
ferday
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Renegade82 View Post
Ditto that. Vise grips have always been the solution for me. Put anti seize on the new ones before you put them in. I also take a short piece (1") of clear hose that fits over the hex portion snug, and heat the end, then crimp it shut with pliers. It will melt shut. then push these over the bleeders to keep dirt and water away.
I use heat shrink tube, then melt the end together. Same function, I just happen to have a lot of heat shrink on hand always.

Good tip!
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Unread 05-18-2013, 02:48 AM   #14
John Strenk
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I just use the rubber caps that come with the calipers.
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Unread 05-18-2013, 11:20 AM   #15
Renegade82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hp_lovecraft View Post
A "new" caliper is only $15.

I had a nightmarish time getting some stuck bleeders out. I even tried hammering in a stuck-bolt extractor, and using a breaker bar.... which busted the extractor. I already had an issue with the piston sticking, and was surprised when remans were so cheap. Problem solved.
I went that route too. $16 at Advance. Not because of any bleeder issue. I was going to clean mine up and rebuild them. The rebuild kits were $10.... vs. one already cleaned and rebuilt for $16. A no brainer.
BUT... I will caution you about the low quality caliper bolts that came with them. So far I've busted off 2 of them just tightening them, one of which I didn't even get to fully tighten. So I just ordered 2 sets of bolts from Federated. I'm not taking that chance again. Drilling them out sucked!
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My frame off Re-Build: (still in progress....)
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