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Unread 06-18-2013, 10:22 PM   #46
LumpyGrits
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1985 CJ7 
 
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Location: The Mojave Desert Palmdale Ca. U.S.A.
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Check your float bowl setting.
Mine did this when I 'sunk' a float......
The fuel was being pumped into the carb because the float couldn't stop the flow.
LG

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Unread 06-18-2013, 10:26 PM   #47
titomars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryancrotty View Post
So what does that mean? Is it because I have the idle high so it does not cut off? Are the jets clogged? I see no fuel coming out of the jets.
The engine would have to be running @ 2,500+ rpm to start fuel flowing like your video shows. Is it idling that high?
The main jets do not control fuel at an idle besides you can not actually see the jets without disassembly, they are in the fuel bowl. No Fuel should be visible flowing inside the carb at idle. There are a number of things that could be going on there. Here are a few possiblities:
Float level set too high
Float full of fuel
needle and seat failure or dirt caught in it
Air-horn gasket bad or air-horn loose
accelerator pump failed or check valves missing.
accelerator discharge nozzle missing or damaged or gasket missing.
__________________
I don't worry about my MPG's. I see it as the price of admission...............Damn what a ride!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Originally Posted by wm69 **
This is the kinda whiny crap I would expect to see in the JK forum. We drive rough riding, leaking, gas guzzling CJ's. Rattle can it and throw it in your Jeep.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1981 Jeep CJ7 258 4.0 HO head, T-5, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1994 Jeep XJ 4.0 HO, AX-15 (My Beater)
1946 Bantam T3-C (original Calif trailer, no rust)
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Unread 06-18-2013, 10:31 PM   #48
ryancrotty
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Location: fort walton beach, FLORIDA
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So where would you guys recommend starting? Does this make any sense that it would run fine for a while and stall randomly at idle? then have to sit for a few min for it to start back up?
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Unread 06-18-2013, 10:43 PM   #49
titomars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryancrotty View Post
So where would you guys recommend starting? Does this make any sense that it would run fine for a while and stall randomly at idle? then have to sit for a few min for it to start back up?
Yes it does make sense.
When you start it cold the engine needs to be rich anyway so you would not notice the extra fuel too much. As it warms up it just gets too rich and loads up at idle finally dying. let me guess it kinda sputters out as it dies? Now since it died flooded you have trouble starting it again because too much fuel is in the intake system. When you try to restart the jeep are you flooring the accelerator pedal and holding it to the floor to start it? doing that would clear it and it would start faster. if not you are only making things worse since you are probably pumping the pedal as you are trying to restart it. Which is making you wait till some of the fuel evaporates.
__________________
I don't worry about my MPG's. I see it as the price of admission...............Damn what a ride!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Originally Posted by wm69 **
This is the kinda whiny crap I would expect to see in the JK forum. We drive rough riding, leaking, gas guzzling CJ's. Rattle can it and throw it in your Jeep.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1981 Jeep CJ7 258 4.0 HO head, T-5, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1994 Jeep XJ 4.0 HO, AX-15 (My Beater)
1946 Bantam T3-C (original Calif trailer, no rust)
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Unread 06-18-2013, 11:01 PM   #50
ryancrotty
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Everything you just said is true. I feel like im getting somewhere. How involved is it to check the float and set it correctly?
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Unread 06-18-2013, 11:13 PM   #51
ryancrotty
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Is there any way i can confirm that it is the floats without tearing into the carb? Is there anything i can check and rule out that would cause this, that doesn't involve tearing into carb? i know ive said it many times but you guys are a tremendous help. Thanks for all the info.

Ryan
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Unread 06-18-2013, 11:14 PM   #52
titomars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryancrotty View Post
Everything you just said is true. I feel like im getting somewhere. How involved is it to check the float and set it correctly?
while most people can do this themselves. I personally think it's more than a simple float adjustment. You might have other things going on inside your carb. do you know any decent mechanics that are old enough to have adequate carburetor knowledge to help you out?
To adjust the float you will need to take the top (air-horn) off the carb and measure the float level and the float drop. Then compare with factory specs if out of spec you bend a tab slightly and recheck, repeat till its in spec. But first you should remove the float check the needle valve tip for gouges, dirt, etc. then if the float is brass shake it and listen for fuel sloshing. if any liquid is in it, time for a new float and at that point i would just go ahead and rebuild the entire carb or if that is beyound your ability buy a reman carb for it.
__________________
I don't worry about my MPG's. I see it as the price of admission...............Damn what a ride!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Originally Posted by wm69 **
This is the kinda whiny crap I would expect to see in the JK forum. We drive rough riding, leaking, gas guzzling CJ's. Rattle can it and throw it in your Jeep.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1981 Jeep CJ7 258 4.0 HO head, T-5, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1994 Jeep XJ 4.0 HO, AX-15 (My Beater)
1946 Bantam T3-C (original Calif trailer, no rust)
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Unread 06-18-2013, 11:27 PM   #53
titomars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryancrotty View Post
Is there any way i can confirm that it is the floats without tearing into the carb? Is there anything i can check and rule out that would cause this, that doesn't involve tearing into carb? i know ive said it many times but you guys are a tremendous help. Thanks for all the info.

Ryan
You are pretty much done. It's time to open it up. The only test without messing with this carb is to try a know good carb in it's place. I am beginning to think this carb you have is junk. I say this because you were missing parts externally, and now this. From your questions I gather you are not real knowledgeable with carburetors. Sorry please don't take that wrong. I am just thinking it might be much easier for you to just buy a reman Carb for it.
__________________
I don't worry about my MPG's. I see it as the price of admission...............Damn what a ride!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Originally Posted by wm69 **
This is the kinda whiny crap I would expect to see in the JK forum. We drive rough riding, leaking, gas guzzling CJ's. Rattle can it and throw it in your Jeep.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1981 Jeep CJ7 258 4.0 HO head, T-5, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1994 Jeep XJ 4.0 HO, AX-15 (My Beater)
1946 Bantam T3-C (original Calif trailer, no rust)
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Unread 06-18-2013, 11:58 PM   #54
86cj74.2L
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Fuel comming out the brass tubes in the Venturi cluster is usually emulsion tubes full of dirt.

You can remove the whole Venturi cluster by removing the choke plate and shaft. Then lift strait up and out. Pulling the cluster apart you will find the top plate has long thin brass tubes. Run a stiff wire in there and lots of carb cleaner.
image-1127537324.jpg   image-3816703340.jpg  
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Unread 06-19-2013, 12:16 AM   #55
talynk72
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Please let me know what you all tried and if you have this figured out!!! I am having the exact same problem to no avail on my 88.
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Unread 06-19-2013, 12:26 AM   #56
ryancrotty
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Didnt take it the wrong way at all, i am learning so much from trying to solve this prob. It just seems like they keep multiplying. The previous owner i bought it from said it had a new remaned carb on it and it looks pretty new, but hey i have been fixing his work since day one.
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Unread 06-19-2013, 02:23 AM   #57
John Strenk
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Just to further your education,
Here is how that carb looks on the inside. Or at least the bottom half.
If you go to full screen with the video and look at the booster venturi you can see fuel coming out of it only when I rev the engine up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=MmCF9Pop_wc
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Unread 06-19-2013, 12:15 PM   #58
ryancrotty
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Ok so I think the reason fuel was dumping in was because the idle was set so high. I was checking a few of the other things mentioned and have noticed the coil is super hot after it runs for a while. Could all this be ICM causing it to be hot and all the issues, it's the one thing I have not replaced. I feel like I am all over the place.
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Unread 06-19-2013, 12:30 PM   #59
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryancrotty
Ok so I think the reason fuel was dumping in was because the idle was set so high. I was checking a few of the other things mentioned and have noticed the coil is super hot after it runs for a while. Could all this be ICM causing it to be hot and all the issues, it's the one thing I have not replaced. I feel like I am all over the place.
If you have fuel dripping out of your Venturi cluster its a good possibility their plugged shut with dirt.

You can lower your idle and see. However of the dripping continues its time to pull the cluster out and clean it.

I would at the least have a new ICM on hand. When they start failing they will work until heat builds up in them and they stop. Then it cools down and starts working again. Putting the new one on and keeping the current one as a get home spare.
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Unread 06-19-2013, 12:33 PM   #60
LumpyGrits
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Go to NAPA and get an American made coil.
THEN, get inside that carb......
LG
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