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Unread 06-11-2013, 09:19 AM   #31
ryancrotty
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So after some tinkering is seems like i got the screws right i just need to get some springs to hold them in place, but it seems as if the choke is not working correctly, and that is where my starting issues are coming from, the choke is always wide open, if i hold it closed it starts right up. could it still be vacuum? EGR valve? Again thank you guys so much this is my first cj and i am learning a lot.

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Unread 06-11-2013, 10:26 AM   #32
titomars
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First off the EGR system does not have anything to do with the choke. Also Vacuum does not directly operate the choke. It works off a bi-metalic spring the changes tension depending on heat.
Does the plastic cap still have it's spring inside and is it indexed on the lever correctly. If yes it just a matter of turning the choke coil cap to introduce spring pressure on the choke linkage. Dial it in on a cold engine and once you feel the spring there will be a mark on the cap to line up with index marks on the housing. Line up with the center mark. It is usually the biggest mark. adjust as necessary first your climate and correct operation.
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**Originally Posted by wm69 **
This is the kinda whiny crap I would expect to see in the JK forum. We drive rough riding, leaking, gas guzzling CJ's. Rattle can it and throw it in your Jeep.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1981 Jeep CJ7 258 4.0 HO head, T-5, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1994 Jeep XJ 4.0 HO, AX-15 (My Beater)
1946 Bantam T3-C (original Calif trailer, no rust)
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Unread 06-11-2013, 05:18 PM   #33
INowUnderstand
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Once it is warmed up does it idle ok?
If so then you are ok. If not whats it doinf

Don't get frustrated. Eventually you'll get it all sorted out. It takes time when things are all messed up. Just went through this. From knowing nothing to learning a bunch in a few short months. You just have to problem solve a step at a time. Only make one change at a time in case Yes, I understand really screw up. It helps to know what did it.
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Unread 06-11-2013, 05:23 PM   #34
INowUnderstand
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The choke will be all the way closed at start up. The vacuum line only cracks it open once the motor starts.
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Unread 06-17-2013, 10:47 PM   #35
ryancrotty
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OK so ive had plenty of time to play around with it but i am still baffled, every time i think i get somewhere, i take it out for a drive and then bam it happens again. I just dont know where to go from here now. I can start it up from cold, drive it with no issues from 10 to 15 min and then i get to one stop light and it just dies. i try to restart and it wont start, i push it out of the road try a few more times to no avail. After i wait about five min it fires up and i sit in stop and go traffic for 25 min with no issue and then i let off the gas make a turn into the parking lot and bam it cuts off again. I just dont know what else to do, anymore help would be great. Thanks again i know im all over the place
Ryan
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Unread 06-17-2013, 11:06 PM   #36
titomars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryancrotty View Post
OK so ive had plenty of time to play around with it but i am still baffled, every time i think i get somewhere, i take it out for a drive and then bam it happens again. I just dont know where to go from here now. I can start it up from cold, drive it with no issues from 10 to 15 min and then i get to one stop light and it just dies. i try to restart and it wont start, i push it out of the road try a few more times to no avail. After i wait about five min it fires up and i sit in stop and go traffic for 25 min with no issue and then i let off the gas make a turn into the parking lot and bam it cuts off again. I just dont know what else to do, anymore help would be great. Thanks again i know im all over the place
Ryan
What you're describing sounds like a vapor lock condition (Fuel boiling in the line). Does your fuel line touch any hot engine parts? thermostat housing, heater or rad hoses, manifolds, head? Ideally your steel fuel line from pump to carb should not touch anything. Is your fuel pump putting out enough pressure especially when hot? low fuel pressure will be more susceptible to vapor lock.
__________________
I don't worry about my MPG's. I see it as the price of admission...............Damn what a ride!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Originally Posted by wm69 **
This is the kinda whiny crap I would expect to see in the JK forum. We drive rough riding, leaking, gas guzzling CJ's. Rattle can it and throw it in your Jeep.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1981 Jeep CJ7 258 4.0 HO head, T-5, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1994 Jeep XJ 4.0 HO, AX-15 (My Beater)
1946 Bantam T3-C (original Calif trailer, no rust)
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Unread 06-18-2013, 03:23 AM   #37
John Strenk
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And that is also the reason there should be a fuel filter with a return port on it.
All the buildup pressure just escapes to the tank.
Since the fuel is always moving, it does not have enough time to heat up and boil.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 04:04 AM   #38
BagusJeep
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It coud be other vacuum leaks, you need to get some stock length of hose and replace everything to be sure.

You can then check for specific leaks with engine starter. The base of the carb and the manifold to head are good ones but the brake booster hose etc can also leak.

You then have a number of other areas, including clogged idle tubes, float levels, metering rods etc that may all be carb related. A clean and rebuild and reset will cost $20 and is fun in a strange way.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 09:34 AM   #39
texasdave
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I had a Jeep that had a hairline crack in the coil tower as it got hot it would expand enough to make it shut off, then when it cooled it would start again. You might want to inspect some of our ignition components to ensure they are in good shape.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 09:39 AM   #40
LumpyGrits
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This sounds more ele than fuel.
How hot is the coil when the eng shuts down? Can you keep your hand on it?
LG
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Unread 06-18-2013, 05:28 PM   #41
ryancrotty
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When these issues first came up i thought electrical at first as well. i replaced everything new plugs, coil, wires, cap and rotor. i will replace all vacuum lines now and see if that helps. Also i will check fuel lines and see if anything is touching. i will let you know what i find. Thanks
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Unread 06-18-2013, 06:20 PM   #42
86cj74.2L
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryancrotty
When these issues first came up i thought electrical at first as well. i replaced everything new plugs, coil, wires, cap and rotor. i will replace all vacuum lines now and see if that helps. Also i will check fuel lines and see if anything is touching. i will let you know what i find. Thanks
You never changed the ICM? To me the coil and ICM should be in pairs. Because when the is a ignition failure with the duraspark system sometimes it takes replacing both to get it running again.

I am so glad I got rid of that setup.
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Unread 06-18-2013, 07:52 PM   #43
ryancrotty
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Ok i replaced all vacuum hoses and caps im almost positive i have not leaks. i started it up to check for leaks and let it idle. i looked in to see if i could see a fine mist or drips and this is all i could see. Sorry for the crappy cell phone vid. Does this mean the jets a clogged and need to be cleaned?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gp3ie...ature=youtu.be
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Unread 06-18-2013, 08:11 PM   #44
titomars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryancrotty View Post
Ok i replaced all vacuum hoses and caps im almost positive i have not leaks. i started it up to check for leaks and let it idle. i looked in to see if i could see a fine mist or drips and this is all i could see. Sorry for the crappy cell phone vid. Does this mean the jets a clogged and need to be cleaned?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gp3ie...ature=youtu.be
If that is at an idle, that should not be happening! The idle circuit discharges below the throttle plates. You should never see fuel flowing in/from the venturies at idle.
Unless you have some kind of really wild race cam.

idle = 1,100 rpm or less
__________________
I don't worry about my MPG's. I see it as the price of admission...............Damn what a ride!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Originally Posted by wm69 **
This is the kinda whiny crap I would expect to see in the JK forum. We drive rough riding, leaking, gas guzzling CJ's. Rattle can it and throw it in your Jeep.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1981 Jeep CJ7 258 4.0 HO head, T-5, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1994 Jeep XJ 4.0 HO, AX-15 (My Beater)
1946 Bantam T3-C (original Calif trailer, no rust)
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Unread 06-18-2013, 10:04 PM   #45
ryancrotty
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So what does that mean? Is it because I have the idle high so it does not cut off? Are the jets clogged? I see no fuel coming out of the jets.
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