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Unread 06-07-2013, 10:03 AM   #16
titomars
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1981 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Santa Rosa, California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryancrotty View Post
So I capped it of and still have the same issues? What could it be vacuum leaks elsewhere?
If you can't see anything visually take a can of carb cleaner or brake cleaner and with the engine running. spray liberally around the carb base and where the intake meets the head expand your search to other vacuum areas as needed like the EGR valve, power brake booster if you have one, and vac lines. when the engine sucks in the cleaner it will drop rpm's and your leak is found.

__________________
I don't worry about my MPG's. I see it as the price of admission...............Damn what a ride!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Originally Posted by wm69 **
This is the kinda whiny crap I would expect to see in the JK forum. We drive rough riding, leaking, gas guzzling CJ's. Rattle can it and throw it in your Jeep.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1981 Jeep CJ7 258 4.0 HO head, T-5, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1994 Jeep XJ 4.0 HO, AX-15 (My Beater)
1946 Bantam T3-C (original Calif trailer, no rust)
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Unread 06-07-2013, 11:32 AM   #17
ryancrotty
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Posts: 97
Ok I'll give that a shot, the problem is the only way to keep it running is by giving it gas? Will that still work?
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Unread 06-07-2013, 11:36 AM   #18
titomars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryancrotty View Post
Ok I'll give that a shot, the problem is the only way to keep it running is by giving it gas? Will that still work?
Manually set it on the fast idle cam to first step. That should give you an idle at about 1000 to 1100 rpm. You just need a consistent speed to hear the idle quality (drop).
__________________
I don't worry about my MPG's. I see it as the price of admission...............Damn what a ride!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Originally Posted by wm69 **
This is the kinda whiny crap I would expect to see in the JK forum. We drive rough riding, leaking, gas guzzling CJ's. Rattle can it and throw it in your Jeep.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1981 Jeep CJ7 258 4.0 HO head, T-5, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1994 Jeep XJ 4.0 HO, AX-15 (My Beater)
1946 Bantam T3-C (original Calif trailer, no rust)
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Unread 06-07-2013, 12:53 PM   #19
ryancrotty
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Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: fort walton beach, FLORIDA
Posts: 97
How would I go about doing that it almost looks like my carb doesn't have the idle screw. Maybe I am looking at the wrong place, even in the pic I posted I can't seem to see it.
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Unread 06-07-2013, 12:55 PM   #20
ryancrotty
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Thanks for all the help man I really appreciate it
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Unread 06-07-2013, 12:57 PM   #21
titomars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryancrotty View Post
How would I go about doing that it almost looks like my carb doesn't have the idle screw. Maybe I am looking at the wrong place, even in the pic I posted I can't seem to see it.
here is a photo of the choke layout. You basically move the cam manually by hand to the first step. you can use the 2nd step also but at such a high idle speed you may not hear as much of a stumble or rpm drop.
bbdlinkage01.jpg  
__________________
I don't worry about my MPG's. I see it as the price of admission...............Damn what a ride!!!
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
**Originally Posted by wm69 **
This is the kinda whiny crap I would expect to see in the JK forum. We drive rough riding, leaking, gas guzzling CJ's. Rattle can it and throw it in your Jeep.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1981 Jeep CJ7 258 4.0 HO head, T-5, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1994 Jeep XJ 4.0 HO, AX-15 (My Beater)
1946 Bantam T3-C (original Calif trailer, no rust)
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Unread 06-07-2013, 01:27 PM   #22
INowUnderstand
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When my idle crapped out what I did was back out the idle mix screws to 5 turns each. That richened up the idle enough to compensate for the vacuum leaks. I could hear the big one sucking air. Once I started looking most of mine were not holes per se but the rubber had become spongey allowing air through. Once I had the leaks figured I adjusted the carb back. Running at 2 1/4 turns out now.
When I got my jeep the lines were ok. But as I started driving it alot they just started going to crap.

I would get a vacuum gauge. It will tell you if you are leaking. Helped me a bunch.
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Unread 06-07-2013, 06:04 PM   #23
ryancrotty
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So I got home from work and started to look around and this it what I found
[IMG][/IMG]

It looks like two idle screws are missing? Am I right? If so what do I use to replace it?
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Unread 06-07-2013, 07:05 PM   #24
INowUnderstand
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Ya looks like they are missing. What is that screw on the other side of the arm with a spring on it. Is the idle adj rigged there some how. Do you have a manual choke? Right now you dont have the screw that does the electric choke on warm up. I was just reading that you could just get any screw that fits to work. There are some videos on youtube that show how the fast idle screw works.
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Unread 06-07-2013, 09:06 PM   #25
ryancrotty
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I'm pretty sure it's an electric choke, that screw I'm assuming is in the wrong spot , when I get new screws do they need to have springs on them?
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Unread 06-07-2013, 10:01 PM   #26
LumpyGrits
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YES, the spring is what 'holds' the screw's adjustment.
You a want 'stiff' spring, BTW.
LG
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Unread 06-08-2013, 08:04 AM   #27
ryancrotty
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Ok so do I just get some fine thread screws with springs and screw them in? How do I know there in the right way? Also the one in the spot farther away from the carb looks like it won't touch anything.
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Unread 06-08-2013, 08:51 AM   #28
INowUnderstand
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The extra screw looks like it was for sol-vac. Which you don't have I believe. See video below

They are in right when the idle is adj right. The one further out sets the curb idle. It rest on a little block and you set it to have idle right when warmed up. It basically keeps the throttle open just a bit. The scew further in touches nothing at operating temp. When working right, you depress the gas pedal all the way. A little stepped cam will pop in place and catch the screw holding the throttle open and the ckoke will be closed. Adjust to about 1700 rpms. After starting blip the gas and it releases the the screw off the first step. And goes down based on temp of engine, where the choke plate is. The scew will hold throttle open based on where it catches the stepped cam. When choke off, the cam Will fall out of place and it is no longer needed, curb idle screw should be the only one touching.

Watch this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CeU5...e_gdata_player
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Unread 06-08-2013, 09:21 AM   #29
INowUnderstand
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See this

http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/solvac.htm
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Unread 06-08-2013, 10:02 AM   #30
LumpyGrits
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Here's the entire site.....
http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm

You MUST find a factory sevice manual as that will ans. 99% of your repair questions.
That picture looks to me like to whole carb link. set up is bent, with the screw shown almost off it's stop.

LG
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