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Unread 10-03-2011, 04:44 PM   #16
BESRK
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I'm curious.. after 2 pages of arguing, have we answered the OP's question?.. wait, what was the question.. wait, who was the OP? (sorry Glenn).


What say we crank this down a notch, post our info, agree to disagree, and move on. Glen is 61 years old (looked at your profile).. I'm sure he can choose which advice he'd like to follow.

Once these threads turn into a shouting match, they lose their value quickly.

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Unread 10-03-2011, 05:53 PM   #17
BESRK
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Guys.. it's simple, contribute to this thread with positive-intended tech.. or dont' post.

I don't even care if the tech is right or wrong.. it's too easy to act like grownups and agree to disagree.

I shouldn't have to roll in here like I'm checking on a classroom of 6yr olds all trying to get in the last snide comment.. c'mon
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 4.56, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

Save

Crozet

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Unread 10-03-2011, 08:47 PM   #18
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon_CMH View Post
Here is a factory one he might buy: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/cj-je...item3cbc41f0cf

Don't know about OEM Keith mentioned they were around and I am sure on ebay or other jeeps etc he could end up with one. Some folks want the bounce from the old school gauges.

Don't be mad at me because you were wrong suck up and get over it. Bottom line the OP needs to go by current or voltage trigger tach to decide.
This thread really went sideways. It hurts to read it.

I want an originail tach., the idea is to keep the jeep as stock as possible. I purchased the tach on fee-bay. I will call MSD and describe to them what I have and I'm sure that they will solve the problem. It will be awhile before I install it, but once I do I will post here and in my build thread.

Thanks for your help!
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Unread 10-04-2011, 10:40 AM   #19
GlennLever
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Ok, I have talked with MSD.

They state that the tach. in the 84 CJ-1 is not current based and therefore does not require the 8920 adapter.

That however is not the end of the story.

There is no date on the tach. that was on fee-bay (which I did purchase as the point is to stay as stock as possible (there will be modifications (MSD box as one))). That tach. may very well be current based.

MSD states that the tach trigger works with either a current based or voltage based tach.

So if there is no way to determine the vehicle that the tach. came out of, and it is in perfect condition, and I use it , I will purchase the tach. trigger to run it.
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Unread 10-04-2011, 10:54 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith460 View Post
Yes you must use the MSD Tach Adapter since the factory is a 'current triggered' type tachometer.



A true quality installation. Nice bracket that you made to mount the tach. adapter.

I truly appreciate the time and effort it takes to do such things. Below are some pictures of the wiring that I was doing in the dragster. Both mounting fixtures that the MSD box and relays are mounted to are removable and the wiring is done with weather pack connectors. A pain in the but, but worth it if you have to pull it out for some reason. Thanks for your input on this topic.
p1090049.jpg   p1090051.jpg   dscn9051.jpg  
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My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
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Unread 10-04-2011, 11:38 AM   #21
brandon1
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Keep us posted cause I have an 84 7 with
Factory tach and msd and tach quit working
When msd was installed. It was mentioned
That the msd was not good with the
Factory dizzy? Is there any truth to that?
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Unread 10-04-2011, 11:40 AM   #22
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Thats the MSD Coil I mentioned that sometimes causes arcing in the stock distributors causing the wrong cylinders to fire at the wrong time. The MSD Ignition box is fine no issues with the stock dizzy that I have seen. You need the MSD 8920 tach adapter to fix your tach.
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Unread 10-04-2011, 11:56 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandon1 View Post
Keep us posted cause I have an 84 7 with
Factory tach and msd and tach quit working
When msd was installed. It was mentioned
That the msd was not good with the
Factory dizzy? Is there any truth to that?
"Factory Dizzy" ?????

The tach will be awhile. I will not install it untill I have done the restore on the heater box (which is still on the way) and pull the dash and swap the boxes.

I want to install a factory clock at the same time (have to find one, Falcon_CMH, you found the tach how about a clock??????).
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My Cars http://www.leverfamilysite.com/vehicles.htm

My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...build-1269301/

New FED, Drag Racing Forum (I am an Administrator) at
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Unread 10-04-2011, 12:00 PM   #24
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How about this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1967-...item19c95c789f
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Unread 10-04-2011, 12:05 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon_CMH View Post
You know I did a search on Fee_Bay before posting this, looked for CJ Clock and only found the new stuff. I put a bid in on it, but am concerned when looking at the back side of the clock. I will keep looking for a better one. Thanks again.
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My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
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New FED, Drag Racing Forum (I am an Administrator) at
http://www.frontenginedragsters.org/forum/index.php
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Unread 10-04-2011, 12:08 PM   #26
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Try "Jeep clock", it's the only one I could find.

You don't see the back once installed.

Also don't bid until 15 seconds before the end of the auction and then put the highest amount your willing to pay (It won't neccessarily go that high based on others max bid). I have great success winning my bids when I take this approach. If you out bid someone's max bid it doesn't give them much if any time to re-bid.
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Unread 10-04-2011, 12:14 PM   #27
GlennLever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcon_CMH View Post
Try "Jeep clock", it's the only one I could find.

You don't see the back once installed.

Also don't bid until 15 seconds before the end of the auction and then put the highest amount your willing to pay (It won't neccessarily go that high based on others max bid). I have great success winning my bids when I take this approach. If you out bid someone's max bid it doesn't give them much if any time to re-bid.
Not so much worried about what you see, it looks burnt, mabe was shorted at one time, no light in the clock so that would have to be added.

My fee-bay policy is to place the higest bid that I am willing to pay and let the action run. It will automaticly bit up to that amount for me. If I win I win, I do not get sucked into diding more thane I would want to pay in the excitment of a biding war at the end. I sell stuff on fee-bay all the time (100% feedback, bought this jeep off fee-bay)
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My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...build-1269301/

New FED, Drag Racing Forum (I am an Administrator) at
http://www.frontenginedragsters.org/forum/index.php
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Unread 10-04-2011, 12:19 PM   #28
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Kewl, you approach is similar to mine you just get the extra chance with mine of someone not being able to re-bid against you that's all.

Like I said it was the only one I could find sorry I couldn't find a better one for you.
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Unread 10-04-2011, 01:18 PM   #29
keith460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlennLever View Post
A true quality installation. Nice bracket that you made to mount the tach. adapter.

I truly appreciate the time and effort it takes to do such things. Thanks for your input on this topic.
I pillaged that bracket form a Jeep YJ at the local junk yard. It was used to mount the OEM jack on top of the YJ fender so all I did was cut off the useless pieces, sand blasted and powder coated it then mounted the MSD unit and Tach Adapter to it.
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Unread 10-04-2011, 01:32 PM   #30
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As a new Jeeper I am still looking for the meaning of "Factory Dizzy" ?????
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Glenn R. Lever
Rochester, New York 14617-2012
My Cars http://www.leverfamilysite.com/vehicles.htm

My restoration thread here on the Jeep forum
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cj...build-1269301/

New FED, Drag Racing Forum (I am an Administrator) at
http://www.frontenginedragsters.org/forum/index.php
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