Jeep Enthusiast Forums banner

stock shackles

904 views 8 replies 8 participants last post by  80cj 
#1 ·
been doing a few things to improve my cj7. it has no lift. all stock suspention. i notice when i have someone move the steering wheel that i can see some movement at mt front shackle. mainly on the top at the frame. i assume that my bushings are wore out. does this seem right? should it replace the shackle or just the bushings? does'nt look very hard to replace. should i go with factory style or aftermarket? could even make them myself.
 
#7 ·
They are said to last longer, they are more resistent to chemicals from the road and fluids that get on them from your Jeep. They also say they improve handling, they are harder than the stock bushings. They also reduce body roll, that makes sense in that they are harder. You can grease them too and I doubt the stock bushings would last long if you did that.
 
#6 ·
I built my own hangers, shackle setup. kinda used a yj/ "papa modified" design. I like it, but gonna drive it first before I brag it up too much, lol. I also have SOA, with 2.5 cj springs all the way around. I went with poly bushings and greaseable shackle bolts.

All I know is, stock shackles and hangers look weak as crap too me. Just don't go with lift shackles, whatever you do. In the front that will screw up ur steering.
 
#8 ·
Stock shackles typically come with a pressed in stud bolt that is smooth all the way across to the other side plate so threads are not exposed to the ID of the rubber or poly bushings. Threads will start to tear the bushings over time so you want to avoid that if possible. Stock Spring Eye Bushings on each leaf spring assembly, where they mount to the frame, will have an inner an outer metal sleeve that can be difficult to remove and usually need the help of heat from a propane torch. The sleeves have a tendency to rust into place but if you get part of the bushings out, use a hacksaw to cut the outer metal sleeve and then drive it out with a large socket that just fits inside the spring eye.

If replacing the Spring Eye Bushings with stock type, use grease or anti-seize compound on the outer sleeves before installing. It will make replacing them in the future much easier. Spring Shackle Bushings are just rubber so they are easy to remove and replace but don't use lube or grease on them as that will make them swell and start to deteriorate the rubber. Stock rubber bushings will give the best ride and flex over poly type as they have more give in them. Plus, rubber bushings will not transfer unwanted road and drive train vibrations like poly bushings do.

Poly bushings, IMHO, are better suited for spring lift kits since most will give you a stiffer ride over stock and the bushings should be greased before installing with a molly type grease and not a mineral based grease. Mineral oil based grease on poly bushings will make them swell and deteriorate them just like rubber bushings will so a synthetic molly grease is best.

Last, but not least, do not over tighten the shackle bolts to no more then 24 ft-lbs or deviate from the range of 18-30 ft-lbs. Shackle bolts that are to tight will not allow the springs to compress and rebound like they are designed to and will make for a stiff ride even for stock leaf springs. The torque setting for the Spring Eye bolts are 100 ft-lbs.

 
#9 ·
While you're at it, check your shackle mount brackets. The front brackets have a large hole in them to clear a frame rivet. The driver's side bracket on mine was cracked completely through on one side of the clearance hole. I replaced both my front brackets with ones made by Tomken Machine.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top