Stock Carburetor on a 77 cj5 - Page 3 -
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post #31 of 36 Old 09-18-2012, 01:50 AM Thread Starter
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1977 CJ5 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Springfield
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Originally Posted by FrnchDp View Post
you got a few options if you're going new. most here will tell you to get a weber or motorcraft carb as they are known to be better all around than the carters. I just swapped out my carter BBD to a Motorcraft 2150.
what's your budget for a replacement carb?

also, many here will also tell you that a rebuild kit isn't a bad thing, and mostly goes bad if it's not done properly.. but no need to tell your pops ; )
500 is to much so i guess round 400 and down maybe.

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post #32 of 36 Old 09-18-2012, 07:35 AM
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1986 CJ7 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Traverse City
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I paid under 300 for my motorcraft. you can find webers for around that as well.

Here's the guy I got mine from (if you chose the Motorcraft) ->

Many members have also purchased from this guy. Many others have purchased the Weber 38, and they can provide you a link to where they got theirs if you want to look into that instead.

1986 CJ-7 - I6-258

2000 WJ Limited - V8-287
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post #33 of 36 Old 09-19-2012, 12:11 AM
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Location: Stouchsburg, PA
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A remanufactured BBD will cost anywhere from 380 to 550 dollars. Napa being most expensive, but remanufactured by Holley.
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post #34 of 36 Old 09-19-2012, 02:44 AM
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1981 CJ7 
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A kit will run you about $30 and include all the gaskets, some of the little bits and fasteners and an instruction manual. They are quite easy to work on, a fine carb in its day fitted to many vehicles, and it is rewarding to take a piece of old junk and make it work.

Now that is not saying that a shiny piece of Gucci kit like a Weber is not good. It is a great manufacturer. I have a Weber 40 from a Ferrari Daytona gracing Puthijeep's manifold and it is F A B. However it is not $30.

Bagusjeep has a 1981 Carter BBD non controlled which has been stripped, cleaned, adjusted and reassembled with new genuine paper gaskets (cut out with my penknife from real paper). The total rebuild cost $5 but it took 3 tries to get it to run right with float levels, idle tubes and inlet valve all needing some study. It has been fine for the last 4 years.

If the BBD did NOT have worn throttle shaft bushings (give that throttle shaft a wiggle, any sideways movement is an air gap that will make idle difficult to adjust) you may find that the best bangs per buck sit with trying a rebuild. For $30 it will at least give you a spare carb.

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1981 CJ7 258ci - Bagusjeep
1984 CJ7 258ci - Puthijeep
1981 J20 258ci - Gladys
1951 Willys CJ3A/MB/M38 - Little Willy
1995 Cherokee 4.0 - CHEROKEE
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post #35 of 36 Old 09-19-2012, 03:25 AM
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And there are a few of us on here capable of replacing the bushings..........
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post #36 of 36 Old 09-19-2012, 01:43 PM
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don't forget to check the gasket surfaces for flatness. A warped body will allow vacuum leaks that will drive you crazy. I once purchased a 74 VW bus with twin carbs in 1984. I would run fantastic until it heated up. It drove me crazy! Then, on my fourth carb rebuild I used a Browne & Sharp rule (known for precision) and could see light under the rule due to carb body warpage. I used some float glass and grinding compound to flatten all the surfaces. Result? Perfect, never had another problem for the remaining 5 years I owned it.

Now, I always check those surfaces and fix any deviations when rebuilding a carb.

This is not a restoration! My goal is stop the rust, mechanically sound and easy on the pocketbook.
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