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Unread 07-06-2009, 08:40 PM   #1
CJATE
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Still over heating: no coolant flow, boiling coolant

I have tried to search and found many useful topics but non have fixed my problem.

Over the last several months I have been running a touch hot, only at idle, itís ok moving and fine moving over 30.

It has sat for the last month, now it over heats like a champ. Setting still or at 40mph+. So I have ruled out fan clutch, as I seem to have reasonable resistance when itís wormed up, some (less) resistance when it cold. And the thing does not cool at higher speeds

With cold jeep, I opened the cap, cranked it, and watched the fluid, it does nothing, I canít ďseeĒ it flow. So I changed the t-state. Still now flow. How obvious is the flow? I did loosen a hose, and it was a gusher, so it think itís pumping, but I should be able to see it from the cap, right?

Itís officially boiling, if I let it.

This is a scrambler and I think all scramblers have the v-belt. How can I tell what pump I have (backwards pump)?, I canít find a good picture or diagram so I can visually tell with out pulling it? but again, gusher with lose hoes

Should I flush? I know it will help, but I canít image it makes that much difference, itís not cooling at all, flush would help if it was barely cooling, right?

I donít think I have coolant in my oil, I should be able to tell on my dip stick? Or should I change the oil for a better look?

Tiered of chasing this particular problem.

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Unread 07-06-2009, 08:53 PM   #2
joe30
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Your not going to notice circulation till the thermostat opens and that would be around 190. you could always run without a thermostat to see if you have flow, if it doesn't overheat that your looking at bad therm or headgasket (due to build up of pressure causing air pocket behind thermostat). If it does overheat stopped up radiator, incorrect belt routing or fan clutch... but i think mine is direct drive no clutch.
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Unread 07-06-2009, 09:04 PM   #3
CJATE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe30 View Post
Your not going to notice circulation till the thermostat opens and that would be around 190.
I am well over 190 when things start to boil.


Quote:
Originally Posted by joe30 View Post
head gasket.
how obvious will this be on the dip stick?


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Originally Posted by joe30 View Post
If it does overheat stopped up radiator, .
any way to test, or just flush?

Quote:
Originally Posted by joe30 View Post
incorrect belt routing or fan clutch... but i think mine is direct drive no clutch.
i don't think I have the wrong pump, as it did sort of work before it's month long park.


perhaps it is stopped up...?
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Unread 07-07-2009, 01:11 AM   #4
RARECJ8
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my CA scrambler is all serp belt drive.
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Unread 07-07-2009, 02:02 AM   #5
JeepnBlake
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not all scramblers have the serp belt setup, i looked at an 83 and it for sure had the v belt setup. maybe the serp. belt is a calif. thing?

if you're sure your coolant system (radiator, coolant pump, thermostat, and fan) are all in good working condition, then check your carb to see if you're running too rich. My motorcycle has a good cooling system and turned out the carbs being too rich were causing it to over heat.

another thing to check would be the thermostat, do a boil test on it, and make sure it's opening at the right temp.
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Unread 07-07-2009, 08:41 AM   #6
CJATE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RARECJ8 View Post
my CA scrambler is all serp belt drive.
interesting, i was told the clutch fan had to be ordered because all scramblers were v-belt?

well, mine is v-belt
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Unread 07-07-2009, 08:49 AM   #7
JeepHammer
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OK, try this...

Go out and by yourself a $20 Radiant heat gun, the kind with the laser on it to show you where you are aiming.

Loosen the radiator cap so it can't build pressure and start the engine.

When the top radiator hose gets hot, the thermostat is open.

Aim you heat gun at the thermostat housing, and find out what temp the thermostat opened.
My guess is that it's late opening and you are already overheating.
---------------------

If that's not the case, then you have TWO more things to do,

1. Do a flow test through the radiator.
Normally, I just take the lower hose off the radiator and stick the garden hose in the radiator neck and turn on the hose.

You are looking to see how much water comes out the bottom of the radiator.
If the radiator backs up and can't pass enough water to keep up with a garden hose,
Then you need to have the radiator cleaned or replaced.

2. Take out the thermostat from it's housing and put the housing back on without a thermostat in place.
Stick your garden hose in the thermostat housing and turn it on.

Make sure the lower hose to the radiator is still disconnected from the radiator.

You are trying to see if there is enough flow through the head gasket passages to keep the garden hose from backing up and water spilling out from the thermostat water neck.

If your engine won't pass enough water to keep the garden hose from backing up and spilling out the water neck,
Then you have some blocked or clogged passages in the engine.

This is very common after some idiot pours that 'Stop Leak' crap in an engine.
The 'Stop Leak' products like to plug up head gasket water ports just like it plugs up radiator tubes.

If both block and radiator pass 'Flow Testing'...
The it's probably the water pump that is the issue.

Turn a water pump too fast, and all you get is cavitation, the pump impeller simply rips holes in the water and doesn't move anything.

Turn a water pump too slow, and it doesn't move enough water.

Feed a cooling system just plain water, and it won't be long before you don't have any blades on the impeller,
AND,
The passages in the block will rust up...
That rust produces acids that attack things like head gaskets and water pumps.

Make sure you run 'Coolant/Anti-Freeze', and make sure you change it every 3 years or so!
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Unread 07-07-2009, 09:54 AM   #8
texasdave
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Don't want to sound mean but Thermostats can be installed backwards, is yours in the right direction. Also check to make sure your hoses to include the heater hoses in and out of the block are routed correctly. I know this sounds basic but some times problems ar esimpler than we think.
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Unread 07-07-2009, 10:11 AM   #9
CJATE
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Quote:
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OK, try this...
thanks, this is what I needed, a way to diagnose. I hate to go replacing things that aren't a problem.


Quote:
Originally Posted by texasdave View Post
Don't want to sound mean but Thermostats can be installed backwards, is yours in the right direction. Also check to make sure your hoses to include the heater hoses in and out of the block are routed correctly. I know this sounds basic but some times problems ar esimpler than we think.
I am pretty sure I got it right, and I did not change anything (other then the t-stat) so there should be no new issues.

I hope I am just clogged radiator, i don't' have the cash to mess with a head gasket
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Unread 07-07-2009, 12:29 PM   #10
RARECJ8
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given the confusion over V and serp drive belts, maybe you have the wrong water pump? the serp drives are, IIRC, reverse rotation. Its easy to get the wrong pump or, as in my case, i wrapped the serp belt along the wrong side of the pump pully, thus spinning the pump backwards. When i discovered that ooops! it was because it also was overheating. Re-wrapped the serp belt along the correct side of the pump pully and she runs cool as ice.

good luck

mb
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Unread 07-07-2009, 01:07 PM   #11
tsjeepcj
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x2 on the wrong water pump...sounds like you've got the wrong rotation pump to me...
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Unread 07-07-2009, 01:19 PM   #12
CJATE
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i just don't see how that would "suddenly" be an issue, i think i had debris settle while it sat.
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Unread 07-07-2009, 01:54 PM   #13
cfljeep
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Could the boiling possibly be exhaust gasses? My brother-in-law recently experienced the same symptoms and his turned out to be a blown head gasket. There is a test that you can do that involves a special dye that is inserted through a tube in to your radiator. Maybe someone else on the forum is a little more familiar with what I am referring to.
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Unread 07-07-2009, 04:53 PM   #14
nicknoty
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i'm not sure about the dye sounds like a good tool though.

personally you i get a used car i buy all tune up parts and all coolling parts

i would buy a stat, pump and run a pressure tester on the motor at 18 psi and check the leak down for about 30 min most caps are set to 15psi so you will looose alil.

a blown heat gasket could do it but typically you will see white smoke from burning water

also are you running lean?
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Unread 07-07-2009, 07:45 PM   #15
joe30
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The t-stat if bad will still not open if the coolant is boiling thats why its bad.
A head gasket won't always show water in the oil so the dip stick won't show much.
A flush normaly won't unclog a stopped up radiator it would need to be rodded or replaced.
As far as testing take the radiator off hold your hand over the bottom neck and fill from the top neck once full move your hand, it should shoot out about nine inches thats a easy way to check, or carry to a radiator shop for flow check.
to look for blow for blow by. fill with water/ coolant then start the jeep if it is always pushing/bubbling air out of the fill neck or exhaust smoke comes out with the bubbles when cold then i would say headgasket or blow by and that is soon to be headgasket.
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