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Unread 04-07-2008, 06:43 PM   #1
SuB8HaVeN
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Steering shaft U-joint part???

Hey guys, I've replaced just about every steering component minus the steering box itself and the steering shaft, and it is still a little loose. I know the sticky mentioned replacing the steering shaft, but I'd like to keep it simple if at all possible. I had a friend tell me there is a U-joint in the steering and if you replace it, it should get rid of the loose steering. Does anyone know the specific part name of the coupling or U-joint that would be worn out on the steering shaft? I see a steering bearing and a part that attaches the steering shaft to the steering box, but I'm not sure what I need to order.

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1961 Willys 4x4 Wagon L-226 I6 T90 (restoration also in progress)
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Unread 04-07-2008, 07:05 PM   #2
illinicj
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I have seen talk on a web forum that there's a guy on ebay selling the u joint for the shaft.
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Unread 04-07-2008, 09:44 PM   #3
peanutfarmer101
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I think they call it a rag joint...at the bottom of shaft where it attaches to the box .....I think it is several pieces....Borgenson makes a really strong shaft with u-joints that I like better..it was money well spent
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'78 CJ-7..304 T400.. 30 up front, locked 20 in back(1 piece axles)..Quadratrac w/ parttime conversion..4" lift w/Currie greasable shackles..33" AT's on 15x12 alum wheels
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Unread 04-08-2008, 08:58 AM   #4
SuB8HaVeN
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Well, I checked the steering today and sitting still, you can move the steering wheel about 1-2" without the wheels turning at all. I looked under the hood while turning the wheel and you can see there doesn't look to be any play in the steering shaft as it is all moving all the way to the power steering gear box. Does this mean I need to adjust the preload on the gear box?
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Unread 04-08-2008, 09:13 AM   #5
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuB8HaVeN View Post
Well, I checked the steering today and sitting still, you can move the steering wheel about 1-2" without the wheels turning at all. I looked under the hood while turning the wheel and you can see there doesn't look to be any play in the steering shaft as it is all moving all the way to the power steering gear box. Does this mean I need to adjust the preload on the gear box?
No, you should adjust the 'adjuster plug' on the steering box.

This takes up the right to left play. The adjuster plug on the Saganaw box is in the end the shaft goes in. You are supposed to loosen off the large locknut, then tighten the center plug all the way and back it off about 1/4" to 1/2" until the play is 'just' gone, then tighten back up that lock nut. A pair of pump plier (channel locks) works on that large lock nut and a center punch in the holes works to move the plug. A tool like an angle grinder wheel nut removal tool with it's two pins is used to turn the plug, but a hammer and punch will do...
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
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Unread 04-08-2008, 09:17 AM   #6
SuB8HaVeN
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Sounds good, thanks for the info. Do I have to take the lower boot off, etc to get to the locknut and center plug? I'm just wondering if I should order the lower boot kit from Quadratec to replace it while it's apart.
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Unread 04-08-2008, 09:49 AM   #7
tsjeepcj
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here's a nice article that references the adjustment on the last page of the article. i used it for reference when I drilled and tapped mine for hydro assist.

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/steeringbox.php
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Unread 04-08-2008, 10:12 AM   #8
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuB8HaVeN View Post
Sounds good, thanks for the info. Do I have to take the lower boot off, etc to get to the locknut and center plug? I'm just wondering if I should order the lower boot kit from Quadratec to replace it while it's apart.
No, but it is a tight fit around the bottom of the rad.

I have the rebuild sheet in PDF for the TJ box which is pretty much identical to the CJ one if you would like it. It has all the pre-loads and adjustments.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 04-08-2008, 10:21 AM   #9
SuB8HaVeN
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I have the Chilton's with an exploded view so that should do. It doesn't go into the detail on the procedure but it has a few pictures that should help.
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Unread 04-08-2008, 10:51 AM   #10
Face
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Romain View Post
No, but it is a tight fit around the bottom of the rad.

I have the rebuild sheet in PDF for the TJ box which is pretty much identical to the CJ one if you would like it. It has all the pre-loads and adjustments.
I'd love to get my hands on the details behind rebuilding a CJ box (even if it has TJ in the title ). Could you forward this .pdf to me, Mike? I can shoot you my email address in a PM if necessary.

My box just started leaking after a rock-heavy off-road trip. 23 yr old seals don't like rocks and high pressure.

How much do "new" steering boxes cost? Is it worth rebuilding or just replacing with a stronger one?
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Unread 04-08-2008, 11:02 AM   #11
Mike Romain
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Originally Posted by Face View Post
I'd love to get my hands on the details behind rebuilding a CJ box (even if it has TJ in the title ). Could you forward this .pdf to me, Mike? I can shoot you my email address in a PM if necessary.

My box just started leaking after a rock-heavy off-road trip. 23 yr old seals don't like rocks and high pressure.

How much do "new" steering boxes cost? Is it worth rebuilding or just replacing with a stronger one?
Send me your email.

The CJ box is the strong one according to the rebuild shop I was at. It has the nice 1 piece adjuster plug that typically lasts, unlike the 2 piece TJ one. My friend with the leaky TJ one even got the CJ parts to 'upgrade' his.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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Unread 04-08-2008, 12:51 PM   #12
SuB8HaVeN
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The link mentioned in post # 7 goes into detail about rebuilding the gear box. It may help to take a look at that.
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Unread 04-08-2008, 12:55 PM   #13
tsjeepcj
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i went with a j20 box when i did my hydro assist, iirc it moves more fluid than the cj7 box. may be something you want to think about if ur trying to turn bigger tires...
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Unread 04-08-2008, 01:10 PM   #14
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuB8HaVeN View Post
The link mentioned in post # 7 goes into detail about rebuilding the gear box. It may help to take a look at that.
I browsed through that, but didn't find any adjustment specs.

In my opinion building a box by 'feel' is a bad waste of time. There are inch pound specs for the bearing preloads and other setting that should be 'proper'.
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86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com (10 new albums added Sept 16/10)
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