Steering Shaft

ttrem · 12-28-2006, 03:14 PM

Hey been having some steering problems. Mostly when I hit bumps the Jeep gets all squirrelly. If its on a good road I can really don't have any problems, but we all know there aren't that many good roads around or for long stretches. So I was thinking of upgrading my Steering Shaft since I got a gift certificate from Quadratech. Here is the one I was thinking of

http://www.quadratec.com/products/56113_61.htm

or possibly this one...

http://www.quadratec.com/products/56113_71.htm

Any opinions on which one of these would work best?

Shameless Elmer · 12-28-2006, 06:18 PM

Either of them will work but, neither of them will likely fix your problem. Save your money to fix the real problem.

k5kev · 12-28-2006, 06:46 PM

Is it squirele due to steering shaft play. Thats the only problem that will fix. 36" tires will do it thow. Is your steering geomitry right? Do you have the famouse lift shackel's installed? Is your steering stableiser any good?

Bard · 12-28-2006, 07:49 PM

Seems like something else, put it on a lift and go through everything. Start with your tie rod end, then drag link, sway bar, drop arm, steering box and then the shaft into the column. You are running 36" TSL's - they have a habit of chewing up bushings and everything else.

85xj350 · 12-28-2006, 08:50 PM

It sounds like steering stableiser to me to i get a little shake with 35's when i hit big bumps. Make sure all other parts are tight.

jayhawkclint · 12-28-2006, 09:55 PM

As Elmer said, you're wasting your money on that steering shaft.

Can you post a pic of your shackle setup?

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85xj350

It sounds like steering stableiser to me to i get a little shake with 35's when i hit big bumps. Make sure all other parts are tight.

I've found that this will only dampen problems, not cure them. Everything Bard said, but I would start with bushings first, especially in the main eyes and shackle hangers, and I also add bearings.

If you're bushings are bad, you can make your own: Go to your local auto parts store. There is usually a section for aftermarket truck stuff that sells a generic pack of hard polyurethane suspension bushings. Hard is the key. I got a 12 pack for about $10 or $12, so much cheaper than the catalogs. They should be close to the right size right out of the box, but if not just turn them down on a drill press with a block sander.

ttrem · 12-29-2006, 02:39 AM

thanks for the advice will say the money and look at what you all suggested. Didnt think it would be any of those problems since the majority of the time it steers well, but will look at it. Glad I posted, rather than just buying.

jayhawkclint · 12-29-2006, 05:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ttrem

thanks for the advice will say the money and look at what you all suggested. Didnt think it would be any of those problems since the majority of the time it steers well, but will look at it. Glad I posted, rather than just buying.

If it steers well the majority of the time, then it is definitely some other problem. A bad steering shaft would result in loose steering all the time.

**BESRK** · 12-29-2006, 05:42 AM

Also, while both of those shafts you linked to are nice, they are also quite expensive and won't do any better than this one..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JEEP-CJ-5-CJ7-7-8-NEW-POWER-STEERING-SHAFT-ASSEMBLY_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33588QQihZ019Q QitemZ290066068043QQrdZ1

I installed one of these in my 80 CJ5 and it's worked perfectly for me for about 3 years now..

jadams68 · 12-29-2006, 02:40 PM

Your castor angle is off.... plain and simple.

jayhawkclint · 12-29-2006, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jadams68

Your castor angle is off.... plain and simple.

Not necessarily, although it certainly is possible if he has some lifted shackles or something (I asked for a pic, but haven't seen it yet)... I had this same problem with just over 6deg castor. Turned out to be some really cheap and soft bushings in the front main eyes deteriorated (I have a reverse shackle setup). Put in polyurethane and haven't had the problem since. Did nothing to the castor when the problem was induced or when it was fixed.

ttrem · 12-29-2006, 11:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jayhawkclint

Not necessarily, although it certainly is possible if he has some lifted shackles or something (I asked for a pic, but haven't seen it yet)... I had this same problem with just over 6deg castor. Turned out to be some really cheap and soft bushings in the front main eyes deteriorated (I have a reverse shackle setup). Put in polyurethane and haven't had the problem since. Did nothing to the castor when the problem was induced or when it was fixed.

will get a pic up tomorrow, I totally missed where you asked for it.

Besrk your right they are expensive, but I figured I got 250 to blow, not like thats a grand total. Sad thing is my mom thought that would be enough to get me some new seats, even though I gave her a catalog and it had the prices in there, heck I even had stuff circled.

Shameless Elmer · 12-30-2006, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ttrem

will get a pic up tomorrow, I totally missed where you asked for it.

Besrk your right they are expensive, but I figured I got 250 to blow, not like thats a grand total. Sad thing is my mom thought that would be enough to get me some new seats, even though I gave her a catalog and it had the prices in there, heck I even had stuff circled.

Wouldn't want to disappoint your Mom and not get new seats. I need/want new seats ans $250.00 will cover them nicely.

jeepmor · 12-30-2006, 01:26 PM

Put healthy parts in where needed and get an alignment. If your knuckles are shot, new tie rod ends won't help, and vice versa. If you have bump steer from a lift, do you have a drop pitman arm? If your drag link is severely angled, this will cause bump steer. As the right wheel moves up and down through the suspension cycle, it will cause it to steer to to the right.

knuckle/bearing check - wheel off ground. wobble at 12:00 and 6:00. Any wobble, determine if it's the steering knuckles or the bearings. Replace or adjust accordingly.

Tie rods. - both wheels off ground, jackstands great here. Wiggle each joint for play. They should move, but not have any play in them. If any play, replace accordingly. Moog makes some big bodied joints over stock that are available at Carquest. They still bolt into stock tierod and draglinks.

Spring shackle bushings - inspect for wear, a complete bear to remove if rusted in. Get some PB40 and blast weeks ahead and daily to penetrate the rust, unless you have a press, you'll be glad you did. Replace with poly bushings. These will firm steering up a bit over stock bushings and are easier to replace because most lack the outer metal sleeve that needs pressed in a stock setup. Saving aggravation.

Shackles - extended shackles ruin your steering geometry, get stock ones or HD stock replacements from outlets such as 4wd hardware or nearly any swb 4x4 magazine.

Steering box lash - there's a lock nut and allen bolt on the top housing that sets the engagement of the steering box gears, you can tighten up some looseness here if out of spec. You'll have to search on this one, I can't recall the spec at the moment. Don't overtighten this one though because it will cause damage if not done correctly. Saginaw steering gears are not cheap or easy to replace. Think rusty bolts from hell is typical here.

Steering shaft - stock ones can wobble quite a bit. You can purchase a new cup and pin assembly that mounts to the steering box. 4wd hardware and ebay have these. And you can get a new bearing set for the engine bay end of your steering column. And lastly, you can either rebuild your existing steering shaft this way, and still have a sloppy stock u-joint if typical. Or you can change it to a Borgeson or Flaming River. These are about 200 if I recall. I have one and love it's permanent u-joints with bearings over the stock unit. However, this will not fix everything, it is more of a final touch. You can repair with stock replacement parts in here and save some coin.

Especially if you have bigger issues in the steering system, which you might have. If you only need a drop pitman arm, I think Autozone has a tool loaner system for the appropriate puller. You don't want to buy something that you will only use once unless you intend on really beefing up your jeep over the long haul.

I have done all this work while building up my jeep. The steering shaft work is the last thing to worry about unless the cup, u-joint, and column are severely worn. Check out ebay for stock parts replacements here and save a buck or 20 over the dealer or even your parts store. That pretty much covers it I think. I hope this helps you diagnose your problem.

And I wish I looked on ebay for that steering shaft, it would have saved me some money. Next time.

jeepmor

ttrem · 12-30-2006, 03:17 PM

Here are some pics of the undercarriage.

12-28-2006, 06:46 PM	#3
k5kev Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Belton, Tx. Posts: 55 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Is it squirele due to steering shaft play. Thats the only problem that will fix. 36" tires will do it thow. Is your steering geomitry right? Do you have the famouse lift shackel's installed? Is your steering stableiser any good? __________________ Kev.. 74 CJ5 10" lift w 39.5.15.5 MT's, 401, D20, D44 & D30 I have never had a street leagel Jeep and never plan on it, so my thoughts are for offroad only. [COLOR="Red"]Please don't ball me out for my opinion. [/COLOR]

12-28-2006, 08:50 PM	#5
85xj350 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: charryvalley new york Posts: 38 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	It sounds like steering stableiser to me to i get a little shake with 35's when i hit big bumps. Make sure all other parts are tight. __________________ 85xj 350 tbi chevy 60over x beem rod, arp rod bolts, vortec heads, rv comp cam, comp cam roller rockers. th400 trany,203 transcase,full coil rc fabrications custom long arm ,3link rear, 35x12.5015 dunlop mud rovers, 9000lb superwinch,custom rock bars, custom roof rack, custom half doors. MEMBER OF OTSEGO OFFROAD CLUB. 75 cj5 360 auto trany 33's

12-30-2006, 01:26 PM	#14
jeepmor Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 709 Profile Gallery Classifieds My Jeeps	Put healthy parts in where needed and get an alignment. If your knuckles are shot, new tie rod ends won't help, and vice versa. If you have bump steer from a lift, do you have a drop pitman arm? If your drag link is severely angled, this will cause bump steer. As the right wheel moves up and down through the suspension cycle, it will cause it to steer to to the right. knuckle/bearing check - wheel off ground. wobble at 12:00 and 6:00. Any wobble, determine if it's the steering knuckles or the bearings. Replace or adjust accordingly. Tie rods. - both wheels off ground, jackstands great here. Wiggle each joint for play. They should move, but not have any play in them. If any play, replace accordingly. Moog makes some big bodied joints over stock that are available at Carquest. They still bolt into stock tierod and draglinks. Spring shackle bushings - inspect for wear, a complete bear to remove if rusted in. Get some PB40 and blast weeks ahead and daily to penetrate the rust, unless you have a press, you'll be glad you did. Replace with poly bushings. These will firm steering up a bit over stock bushings and are easier to replace because most lack the outer metal sleeve that needs pressed in a stock setup. Saving aggravation. Shackles - extended shackles ruin your steering geometry, get stock ones or HD stock replacements from outlets such as 4wd hardware or nearly any swb 4x4 magazine. Steering box lash - there's a lock nut and allen bolt on the top housing that sets the engagement of the steering box gears, you can tighten up some looseness here if out of spec. You'll have to search on this one, I can't recall the spec at the moment. Don't overtighten this one though because it will cause damage if not done correctly. Saginaw steering gears are not cheap or easy to replace. Think rusty bolts from hell is typical here. Steering shaft - stock ones can wobble quite a bit. You can purchase a new cup and pin assembly that mounts to the steering box. 4wd hardware and ebay have these. And you can get a new bearing set for the engine bay end of your steering column. And lastly, you can either rebuild your existing steering shaft this way, and still have a sloppy stock u-joint if typical. Or you can change it to a Borgeson or Flaming River. These are about 200 if I recall. I have one and love it's permanent u-joints with bearings over the stock unit. However, this will not fix everything, it is more of a final touch. You can repair with stock replacement parts in here and save some coin. Especially if you have bigger issues in the steering system, which you might have. If you only need a drop pitman arm, I think Autozone has a tool loaner system for the appropriate puller. You don't want to buy something that you will only use once unless you intend on really beefing up your jeep over the long haul. I have done all this work while building up my jeep. The steering shaft work is the last thing to worry about unless the cup, u-joint, and column are severely worn. Check out ebay for stock parts replacements here and save a buck or 20 over the dealer or even your parts store. That pretty much covers it I think. I hope this helps you diagnose your problem. And I wish I looked on ebay for that steering shaft, it would have saved me some money. Next time. jeepmor Last edited by jeepmor; 12-30-2006 at 01:39 PM..