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Unread 01-13-2010, 08:25 AM   #1
atomicflatulenc
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1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Pemberton, NJ
Posts: 520
Steering parts replacement advice

I am certain that I will be replacing my steering box bracket. I'm getting a lot of flex with the stock bracket.

I'll probably use the Big Daddy bracket. The bracket looks very stout. Are there any others I should look at?

Since I'll have everything apart, should I consider replacing the steering box? Steering pump? Hoses? I'm relatively new to rock crawling and wrenching. There is a lot of "common sense" automotive things that I just don't know yet.

I already replaced the steering shaft with the Borgenson. That really helped with the steering slop.

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'85 CJ7, 258 4.2 Howell TBI, NP435, twin sticked Dana300, 4.56 Yukon chromoly: Rear20-extra thick tubes, shaved,trussed,discbrakes,ARB: Front30- flipped tierod,Detroit EZ locker, warn hubs: 3.5" BDS YJ springs and booster, 35" Trxus M/T's, rhino'd, full roll cage, borgenson steering shaft, big daddy steering box bracket...Unknown OIL Leak(working on it...)
FOR SALE $6000
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Unread 01-13-2010, 08:40 AM   #2
jeepn012
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2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Houston
Posts: 470
With 35's, I'd consider a hydraulic assist setup. The only hard part about it is welding on the tabs for the ram. I'm not sure if you've got the capabilities.

Check out these guys, they have very reasonable prices.
hydrosteering

At the very least, if it's the stock steering box, I'd put in a new one. That big daddy bracket is the beef. Good luck.

EDIT: Forgot to mention that this will get a LOT of stress of the steering off your frame...that's the point of it anyway....
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Unread 01-13-2010, 08:45 AM   #3
twoleos617
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1986 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Louisville, Ky.
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replace steering bracket and get a brace too. they go hand-in-hand.
jack up your front end and wiggle the wheels and look for slop in tie rods and ball joints.
i replaced tie rod and drag link assemblies as a whole since i had 2 ends that were bad (research tie rod flip at this stage)
trace hoses and look for leaks. pump and box are probably ok and are expensive to replace anyway.

after doing these things, my slop is gone and i dont have to worry about old parts that i need to rely on.

for someone new to crawling and wrenching, you sure have some nice rigs in your sig line!
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Unread 01-13-2010, 09:10 AM   #4
atomicflatulenc
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1985 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Pemberton, NJ
Posts: 520
Quote:
Originally Posted by twoleos617 View Post
for someone new to crawling and wrenching, you sure have some nice rigs in your sig line!
Thanks! I've been doing a lot of research and was really lucky to find a couple of good clubs in NJ. I've got a 2A in the works too! Picking it up really soon.

I did the flip, but had to undo the tie rod part because it hit the drag link after the YJ springs moved the front axle forward a couple of inches. That being said, I'm also looking at a beefier tie-rod/draglink since the tie rod is back in harms way. My first thought was the Big Daddy again, but then I saw the Currie Chromoly. Any thoughts?

Maybe I should just get a spare OEM tie-rod? I ahven't had any issues bending it yet, but if I compete in the RCrocks Club comp I think I'll be pushing the rig a little harder. With a tougher rod, I'm worried about moving the weak part to the knuckles. Would the TRE's break first?
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'85 CJ7, 258 4.2 Howell TBI, NP435, twin sticked Dana300, 4.56 Yukon chromoly: Rear20-extra thick tubes, shaved,trussed,discbrakes,ARB: Front30- flipped tierod,Detroit EZ locker, warn hubs: 3.5" BDS YJ springs and booster, 35" Trxus M/T's, rhino'd, full roll cage, borgenson steering shaft, big daddy steering box bracket...Unknown OIL Leak(working on it...)
FOR SALE $6000
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