steering knuckle swap - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 4 Old 04-05-2010, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
edub78
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1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mt. Vernon OH
Posts: 15
steering knuckle swap

hey everyone... newbie here and workin on my first jeep... somehow i managed to talk myself into a full blown frame off resto... swapping wt's under my cj5 and was planning on keeping the "big disc brakes" off my nt... i've done lots of research and haven't come up with much, which is how i usually teach myself how to do anything cuz i hate to pay someone to do something i can learn how to do... my friends say i'm stingy (can you believe that lol)...

after tearing down both axles, wt d30 and nt d30, and comparing all four knuckles the knuckles off the nt look to be bent or twisted where the tie rod/drag link connect to the knuckle... more so on the drivers side

will this effect steering if i keep using them?
what are options to fix without buying new knuckles?
can i use the wt knuckles (2 bolt caliper bracket) with my "big disc brake" and 6 bolt caliper brackets?

thx E

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post #2 of 4 Old 04-05-2010, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
edub78
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1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mt. Vernon OH
Posts: 15
taking my parts to the sandblaster today... maybe i'll take all four knuckles in case i have to use the wt knuckles... any help would be appreciated
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post #3 of 4 Old 04-05-2010, 12:26 PM
foggybottombob
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Monument Colorado
Posts: 5,840
The typical differences in open Dana 30/44 knuckles of this type come under these headings:
1) The throw (this measurement has to do with the distance from the stub axle eye to the face of the knuckle. As far as I know, this is the same for all these open knuckles.
2) The steering arm distance from the ball joint to the drag link tie rod end hole in the arm. This distance would affect the steering rate for the hole attached to the drag link and no effect from the tie rod holes.
3) The direction of taper of the steering arm tie rod holes. I don't know about the dana 30 knuckles but there are dana 44 knuckles (which fit those same inner C knuckles) which have tie rod tapers from the top or the bottom depending on the vehicle and year.
4) then there are some Dana 30 knuckles which have bolt holes for calipers.
5) Other differences in stub shafts and hubs, calipers rotors, etc. can be handled by changing spindles and other outer parts.
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post #4 of 4 Old 04-05-2010, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
edub78
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1978 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Mt. Vernon OH
Posts: 15
thx for the info
from my research the Dana 30 wide track and narrow track are the same from the spindle out... the knuckles are different in that one uses a two bolt caliper bracket and the other uses a six bolt caliper bracket... the spindle studs are shorter in the knuckle (wide track) with the two bolt bracket so therefore to use the wide track knuckles i would have to put in longer studs... the sandblaster pointed out that it looked like the part of the knuckle (narrow track passenger side) where the tie rod connects had possibly been repaired by a PO... and as i stated in my original post the (narrow track drivers side) knuckle looked twisted where the tie rod connects to knuckle... i'm coming to the conclusion that the jeep was wrecked at one point and both narrow track knuckles were damaged

has anyone out there used the wide track knuckles... taken off the 2 bolt caliper brackets... installed longer spindle studs... then used the 6 bolt caliper brackets with the "big brake" setup???

im not sure if the bosses for the 2 bolt caliper bracket are going to interfere with the installation of the 6 bolt caliper bracket and caliper
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