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post #1 of 13 Old 02-22-2008, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
DT5150
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Steering Components

alright, i'm workin on correcting some of the handling issues with my jeep. i've decided to add a sway bar and some quick discos. that should help some of the body roll. now, i'm focusing on the steering components. have look at what's currently on there.



notice the bend...

i'm thinking about replacing all of the components. might as well... and possibly eliminating the steering stab. i don't think it does much of anything anyway. i've been reading up on the tie rod flip and i think i'd like to do that. i've been pricing out some tie rod/drag link kits and they're not cheap. but, i did see this.. http://www.ok4wd.com/index.php/catal...d_flip_system/ anybody have any opinions on it?

i must admit, i'm a total novice when it comes to this so any input is more than welcomed. i've searched and read a ton of posts and have taken what i can from those as well. thanks!

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post #2 of 13 Old 02-22-2008, 10:58 AM
Mike Romain
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The steering stabilizer shock absorber is needed to extend the life of the parts and to help avoid blisters on your hands...

It absorbs the side to side impact from rocks so the impact doesn't hit 'all' the steering components which wears things out. My steering shaft even disintegrated last fall.

It turns out I have never had one on mine despite a pretty looking rod and empty tube sitting where one should be and man oh man, on one trip I had to break a spring trail for 80 miles of rotted plate ice over mud because of a washout to get to the camp we were going to. It was a 3rd gear low range 'pedal to the metal' run. I had nasty blisters from holding on to my leather wheel by the time I got there. But man it 'was' fun, even blowing a hub and having to winch the last 100 yd to camp...

I have a new dual shock setup to go on my new frame come spring.

I also bent my brand new drag link bar 'up' in the same place yours is bent down, the first trip out with it. Bushwhacking and hidden rocks...

All that did was put my steering wheel back perfectly straight. I also had new springs and was waiting for a good bounce to settle them before setting the steering wheel alignment. That is all the drag link does, align the steering wheel so if it doesn't hit anything, it's OK.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
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post #3 of 13 Old 02-22-2008, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
DT5150
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so it's alright if it's bent?
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post #4 of 13 Old 02-22-2008, 11:20 AM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DT5150 View Post
so it's alright if it's bent?
Mine has been just fine for the last 8 years...

I 'just' straightened it out because it was in the way of the new dual shock mount I got so now I have to loosen off the sleeve on it and turn the sleeve to center my steering wheel again.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #5 of 13 Old 02-22-2008, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
DT5150
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ok, well that's good. you just saved me some $.

speaking of stabilizers, take a look at this...



the bracket hits the front cover of the axle. i'm wondering if it should be on the drag link and not the tie rod?

here's the other end of it..

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post #6 of 13 Old 02-22-2008, 11:37 AM
aero mech
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I orderd just the flip kit from OK and was very pleased. if you are going to be in the rocks and need new drag link and tie rod any way I would go for it. Those aren't much more than stock replacements. JC

80 CJ-7 Straight six,comp cam,4.0 head, cherokee header, DUI distributor, Affordable FI TBI ,4.10's wide track amc 20 aussie locked and trussed, Dana 30 aussie locked, PSC steering box, 4.5 RE lift, twin sticked dana 300 with Lo max 4to1 35"STT'S ON DC-1 "It's getting there"
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post #7 of 13 Old 02-22-2008, 11:39 AM
Mike Romain
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Someone likely was sloppy with the last front end alignment.

The tie rod spins after the end lock nuts are loosened to adjust the toe in. Well, the mount plate also spins and needs to be loosened off for the alignment and turned slightly so it can't hit the cover when locked back down. Been there, done that.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #8 of 13 Old 02-22-2008, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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that should be easy enough to remedy. does the stab shock itself go on the inside toward the axle, or outside/forward? i seem to remember seeing a pic where the stab was on the inside, between the tie rod and axle...
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post #9 of 13 Old 02-22-2008, 12:08 PM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
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that should be easy enough to remedy. does the stab shock itself go on the inside toward the axle, or outside/forward? i seem to remember seeing a pic where the stab was on the inside, between the tie rod and axle...
I just went and looked at mine. The stock shock has a mount directly on top of the leaf spring, it is part of the perch. Dead center between the U-bolts.

Your shock isn't quite in the right place. It should be as close to the spring as you can get it and even on the other side of the U-bolts if it can fit.

You are right, they are tilted to the inside of the rod, but they are way over and only come close to the cover when you cut the wheels to one side.

Just rotating yours might make it clear though, but I would move it over if it was mine.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
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post #10 of 13 Old 02-22-2008, 12:37 PM
CJ Chet
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I have the same flip kit and I'm happy with it, but check out this tie rod and drag link. They are MASSIVE!

http://www.bigdaddyoffroad.com/produ...products_id=67

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post #11 of 13 Old 02-22-2008, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
DT5150
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thanks for looking mike. by looking at the pic, i think i'd have enough room to put it on the outboard side of the springs. or at least, i think i can move it over an inch or 2. that might be enough to clear the cover.

also, how do know if your tie rod ends are worn/bad? or, how do you test them? just yank and bank on em a little and check for movement?

thanks for the link chet, i'll check em out.
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post #12 of 13 Old 02-22-2008, 12:52 PM
Mike Romain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DT5150 View Post
thanks for looking mike. by looking at the pic, i think i'd have enough room to put it on the outboard side of the springs. or at least, i think i can move it over an inch or 2. that might be enough to clear the cover.

also, how do know if your tie rod ends are worn/bad? or, how do you test them? just yank and bank on em a little and check for movement?

thanks for the link chet, i'll check em out.
I go under and have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth. If there is any slop side to side or up and down, that joint is done. Sometimes just putting your hand over the joint when the steering is rocking will let you feel the slop.

I then have them pin the steering side to side, again looking for slop, even the ball joints will sometimes show this way, but a pry bar under the hub will usually show trouble in a ball joint. A torn ball joint boot is a good sign of failure too.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00, 'New' frame,wires and plumbing in '09. Carter BBD Carbed 4.0 HO in '10.
89 YJ Renegade. BBD Carbed 4.0 HO. Locked front and rear with 33x9.5 BFG AT's
Some Canadian Bush Jeep Runs and Build Photos:
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post #13 of 13 Old 02-22-2008, 12:59 PM Thread Starter
DT5150
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great, thanks.
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