Starting my Scout Dana 44 front axle swap - Page 2 - JeepForum.com

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post #16 of 38 Old 02-13-2013, 09:13 AM
CSP
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The Yukon kit specifically mentions using Timken bearings, which are the best. I want to know what kind of bearings that other kit uses and stay away from no-name, made in China bearings.

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post #17 of 38 Old 02-13-2013, 11:09 AM
Noplainsdrifter
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I'm going to guess the quality of the parts, like Timken vs. a chinese brand????

From the small pictures, it's hard to see if you have ground enough off the c's. You can grind into both the tubes and c's without ruining them. You will be filling those voids with welds anyway. You should be able to see a fine line between the two when ground enough. And yes, it takes a BFH to get the c's to move.

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post #18 of 38 Old 02-13-2013, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
aufan
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Yep that picture was when i first started. I started with the long side and was a bit more aggressive cutting into the weld since i will be shortening that tube anyways. Once i get my BFH ill knock that side off first and then carefully finish grinding down the short side.
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post #19 of 38 Old 02-13-2013, 11:41 AM
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If you're cutting one side down just cut through the tube completely right at the knuckle weld. You just have to know where your cut line will be prior to removing the knuckle with the tube in it. Once the knuckle is off with tube in it you can make a couple of relief cuts in the tube and it will come out will little effort.
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post #20 of 38 Old 02-13-2013, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Yep,

I may end up doing that. I was grinding down the weld more for practice.
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post #21 of 38 Old 02-13-2013, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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So with a 4lb hammer I couldnt get either side to move. Not even a crack showng up. On the long size I've gone about a 1/16 into the tube so I know I'm through the weld. Must be the rust holding it it together. My buddy has a torch I can use to heat up with and see if that will loosen it up. Any issues with this route? I used the rest of the time tonight using a 2" wire wheel cleaning out the insides of the tubes.
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post #22 of 38 Old 02-14-2013, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aufan View Post
So with a 4lb hammer I couldnt get either side to move. Not even a crack showng up. On the long size I've gone about a 1/16 into the tube so I know I'm through the weld. Must be the rust holding it it together. My buddy has a torch I can use to heat up with and see if that will loosen it up. Any issues with this route? I used the rest of the time tonight using a 2" wire wheel cleaning out the insides of the tubes.
You have to grind into the knuckle more not the tube. This is what i found out when I ddid mine. Put the thicker grinding disc on your grinder and hold it at maybe a 20 degree angle. And then grind into the c.

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post #23 of 38 Old 02-24-2013, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Update:

Yesturday got a full day in working on the jeep and front axle. I took HighFive's advice and Managed to break free both inner C's. The long side was my learning side, as i cut into the axle tube pretty deep before i saw a crack appear. Since 3.5" is being cut off this side i wasnt worried about hacking into it. The short side was a much quicker affair after seeing how and where the crack would appear. On the short side,once I had the weld completely ground down, I took my Dremel and cut about a 1/16 to 1/8 into the C right at where the tube met the c. This was key . This is where the crack will show up. 6-8 hits with the hammer and the crack was all the way around.
Attached Thumbnails
axle tube.jpg   axleshort side.jpg   axle ciut.jpg  
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post #24 of 38 Old 02-24-2013, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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im a bit concerned with the location of one of the carrier race bolts. for some reason the differential had a bad cast leaving one of the bolts very close to the edge . Should i be concerned?
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axle hosuing.jpg   race bolt.jpg  
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post #25 of 38 Old 02-24-2013, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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Spent some hours cleaning the entire axle.

Items used:

2" wire wheel
Drill
Brake cleaner
Small wire brush


Planning on painting the axle this week. What has everyone used? primer/rattle can or POR15?
Attached Thumbnails
pre clean .jpg   axle lclean 3.jpg   cleaning 2.jpg   cleaning 1.jpg  
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post #26 of 38 Old 02-24-2013, 10:00 AM
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I had my Scout Dana 44 front C's turn to 10 degrees that's with a 4" lift.

Jeep dana 30 6 dregees
most Scout44 0 degrees
1980 Scout 2 dergees

Rubicon Rich ,05 TJ Rubicon: PatriotJeepers.com
86 CJ7 258,T18,Scout Dana300,twin sticks,Dana44's,4W Disc, locked,35's,YORK OBA,Warn 8274,fullcage.
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post #27 of 38 Old 02-24-2013, 10:16 AM Thread Starter
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So ive decided to take a slight curve in my build. My original plan was to go with a Rubicon Express 4.5 lift and keep my 33's and possibly upgrade to 35's. After talking to local custom offroad shop here in nashville, with spring approaching and my girlfriend nagging, I have decided im going to have them professionally build the jeep. By the end of April i will have the following items done:

Remove rough country 4" lift and install stock springs SOA ( as long as they seem to be in good condition)
rotate my rear 44 and build/install dual CV shaft
Install custom high steer setup
cut and spline new chromoly shaft for front
swap scout 44 into the front and reuse my dana 30 outers
Install Yukon 4.10 front and back/ yukon seals and bearings
Install front and back Yukon selectable Zip lockers.

After explaining to the shop what i wanted ( show worthy street jeep, tackle anything offroad, and clear 35"s without cutting) they swayed my to go SOA.

I would like to finish up my front axle so i can give it to them painted and ready to go. My plan is to set the pinion angle to match stock and set the caster to 6 degrees. OR....should I give the axle to the shop as is and let them set all the angles while building?

Thoughts?
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post #28 of 38 Old 02-24-2013, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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?
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post #29 of 38 Old 02-24-2013, 07:31 PM
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No thoughts, I subscribed to the thread. Making my way to D44s this weekend.
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post #30 of 38 Old 02-25-2013, 04:18 PM
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I would let them do everything, you really need everything mocked up with the new springs and the weight on it to get the proper castor angles.

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