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Unread 02-04-2013, 05:58 PM   #1
aufan
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Join Date: Nov 2012
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Starting my Scout Dana 44 front axle swap

This weekend I will begin the process of swapping out my new dana 44 out of a scout. I will be shortening to WT width and using my dana 30 outers. I have done alot of research and have a complete grasp on removing C's, cutting axle, setting pinion angle, caster angle, and relocating/grinding down perches. My first task is to remove the outer nuckles/remove shafts/ring and pinion for a tedious inspection and cleaning. The only thing i am struggling on is getting started rremoving the scout outers. i have seen a few brief write ups and/or pictorials otherwise I will be shooting from the hip. Any help or guidance from those that have done this swap would be great.

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Unread 02-04-2013, 06:06 PM   #2
BlueRubiconrich
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grind the weld off very slowly.You say you are cutting one side to CJ7 WT
I cut 3 5/8's off one side. if you cut that side first just grind off weld and then just cut the tube left inside a few times and knock out. Throw the other side on a grill or in the fire and knock it off too.
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86 CJ7 258,T18,Scout Dana300,twin sticks,Dana44's,4W Disc, locked,35's,YORK OBA,Warn 8274,fullcage.
51 M100 1/4 ton Jeep trailer
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Unread 02-04-2013, 06:15 PM   #3
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What in particular are you struggling with in regard to the outers?

Don't know where to start or what?
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Unread 02-04-2013, 06:54 PM   #4
BlueRubiconrich
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take it apart remove the Scout outers and reuse your Jeep parts run Jeep spindles and knuckles.
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86 CJ7 258,T18,Scout Dana300,twin sticks,Dana44's,4W Disc, locked,35's,YORK OBA,Warn 8274,fullcage.
51 M100 1/4 ton Jeep trailer
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Unread 02-04-2013, 06:56 PM   #5
BlueRubiconrich
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see
ofr2012-mike-23-.jpg  
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Rubicon Rich ,05 TJ Rubicon: PatriotJeepers.com
86 CJ7 258,T18,Scout Dana300,twin sticks,Dana44's,4W Disc, locked,35's,YORK OBA,Warn 8274,fullcage.
51 M100 1/4 ton Jeep trailer
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Unread 02-04-2013, 07:17 PM   #6
aufan
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I was looking for Info on tearing off the scout knuckle assembly down to just the c's.
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Unread 02-04-2013, 07:34 PM   #7
BlueRubiconrich
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it's all pretty basic I discarded all the Scout parts and reused my CJ parts.
just tear into it your not gonna use those parts again.
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Rubicon Rich ,05 TJ Rubicon: PatriotJeepers.com
86 CJ7 258,T18,Scout Dana300,twin sticks,Dana44's,4W Disc, locked,35's,YORK OBA,Warn 8274,fullcage.
51 M100 1/4 ton Jeep trailer
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Unread 02-04-2013, 07:39 PM   #8
BlueRubiconrich
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does it have 6 bolt hubs keep those. remove those and remove the nuts
pull out the bearings slide off the disc put one nut back on and hit with hammer this will start to move the spindle off. don't wreck the treads.
now you can pull out the axle shafts.
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Rubicon Rich ,05 TJ Rubicon: PatriotJeepers.com
86 CJ7 258,T18,Scout Dana300,twin sticks,Dana44's,4W Disc, locked,35's,YORK OBA,Warn 8274,fullcage.
51 M100 1/4 ton Jeep trailer
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Unread 02-04-2013, 08:54 PM   #9
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Remove calipers
Remove lockout hubs which gives you access to the spindle nuts. Remove those and the wheelbearing hub comes off, giving you access to the spindles. Remove the spindles and the axleshafts can come out. Once the axleshafts are out you can remove the nuts from the balljoints and knock the knuckles off of the inner C's.

That's it in a nutshell. Get yourself a CJ service manual. There's a sticky thread in this forum with one that's downloadable. The Scout outers are almost the same as CJ, so the disassembly is pretty much the same as breaking down a CJ Dana 30.
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Unread 02-04-2013, 09:21 PM   #10
aufan
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Does napa carry hub nut socket?
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Unread 02-05-2013, 07:36 AM   #11
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If they don't have it in stock they can get it. Not every NAPA store has the same stuff on the shelf.
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Unread 02-12-2013, 07:55 PM   #12
aufan
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Last week i began the teardown. Pulling the hubs was actually easier than i expected. About 45 min for each side. I purchased a 2 3/32" hub socket for like 25 dollars from orileys. When i got down to the nuts they already had notches from where someone had used a screw driver. for those that are not reusing any parts from the outers i would just use a screw driver to remove these nuts and save your money on the socket. The hardest part was pulling off the caliper. Ended up heating up and beating out the shim holding it in place. Not sure if there was an easier way?? I made sure to keep ring and pinion / shims for reference when I install gears.
carrier-layout.jpg  
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Unread 02-12-2013, 07:58 PM   #13
aufan
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Tonight i began grinding to remove the C's. I used a wheel grinder with a 1/8" wheel. Tried to beat each side off but didnt have a large enough hammer. I grinded down the weld as close as i could without getting into the tube. I do have a few concerns that i realized tonight. Please way in with your input. It appears that some water had sat inside the housing. You can see rust that formed at the top of the bearing race caps. there is also slight rust on the edge of one of the races. Do you guys think this is ok? should i do anything about it?
rust-race-1.jpg   race-bolt.jpg   rust-race.jpg   race.jpg   cutting-c.jpg  

race-.jpg   race-upclose.jpg  
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Unread 02-12-2013, 08:25 PM   #14
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Remove the rust so that it isn't protruding higher than the machined surface and you'll be fine.
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Unread 02-13-2013, 08:49 AM   #15
aufan
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Any noticable difference in these two kits other than price? I plan to use yukon gears but why $100 more for the kit from yukon?


$128
http://www.anythingscout.com/part/30...ll-kit-dana-44


$223
http://www.ringpinion.com/b2c/Produc..._Gear_and_Axle
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