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Unread 03-12-2013, 03:40 PM   #76
S76
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Location: Stafford Springs, CT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ7ROB View Post
Good work, nice welding.
Thanks Rob. I am so anxious to finish the frame so I can start on the YJ spring conversion and get the axles ready.

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Unread 03-12-2013, 03:51 PM   #77
S76
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Originally Posted by Skerr View Post
Nicely done! Haven't heard about the bar oil. Lots of discussion on what to use for internal protection. Will you plug your holes or leave them?
Been using bar oil for years. I heat it up in a crock pot, (don't tell the wife) and spray it on hot. It wicks into all the seams and then cools to that sticky stringy stuff that it is. It stays in place good. It's more popular the further north you go. No paint will penetrate the seams like oil.

I'm investigating pluging the existing holes with plastic body plugs. I will definitely be drilling some holes in the bottom of the frame. One by each main spring perch and one in the back at a minimum. It's clear to see these frames fill with water and can't drain and that is what causes most of the damage. A fairly well sealed up frame covered with oil on the inside, and holes in the bottom to let out whatever water does get in should last forever.

I hope.
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Unread 03-12-2013, 07:47 PM   #78
dechlin
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I had a guy that i used to work with that would buy the wax rings from a toilet, heat them up and mix the wax with atf. Then he would spay the underbody of his jeep and pick up with it, He swore by it.

I finally found a good frame for my cj and will starting on it soon. What are you doing to the suspension on yours? Just going with yj springs and hangers? What about the axles? Im trying to decide what to do and im looking for ideas
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Unread 03-12-2013, 09:17 PM   #79
S76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dechlin View Post
I had a guy that i used to work with that would buy the wax rings from a toilet, heat them up and mix the wax with atf. Then he would spay the underbody of his jeep and pick up with it, He swore by it.

I finally found a good frame for my cj and will starting on it soon. What are you doing to the suspension on yours? Just going with yj springs and hangers? What about the axles? Im trying to decide what to do and im looking for ideas
Thats a great idea using toilet rings. Many of the preservative oils have parafin in them. I may give that a try.

Yes, OEM 2.5" lift springs and hangers. YJ shackles because they are 4" instead of our stock 3", and a 1" body lift. I think that will clear the 33" tires OK.

The front Dana 30 will be regeared to 3:54 from 2:73 and rebuilt. The rear Model 20 will get a truss from "Besrk", one piece axles, 3:54 gears,
Truetrac LSD, and disc brakes. Yeah, the rear got super expensive to the tune of about $1,100. I'm using used gears or it would have been more. LOL

Most would say to go with lower gears but this is a street princess and my goal is 18 MPG which I think is doable. The 5.0 I'm using got that in the Mustang and it weighed 3300 lbs. The jeep will be lighter. No winch, no bumpers etc.

We need to get together at some point to compare notes.

Bob
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Unread 03-13-2013, 07:35 AM   #80
CJ7ROB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S76 View Post
Most would say to go with lower gears but this is a street princess and my goal is 18 MPG which I think is doable. The 5.0 I'm using got that in the Mustang and it weighed 3300 lbs. The jeep will be lighter. No winch, no bumpers etc.

Bob
Your Jeep will be lighter than the Mustang? By how much do you think?
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Unread 03-13-2013, 08:41 AM   #81
dechlin
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So I'm running a 350 t5 and 354 gears and don't feel that it has enough power while running the 33s I can't shift into 5th unless I'm on the highway doing at least 60 or it has no power at all. I would like to go up to at least a 410 just so I can have some power
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Unread 03-13-2013, 04:10 PM   #82
RamblingCJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dechlin
So I'm running a 350 t5 and 354 gears and don't feel that it has enough power while running the 33s I can't shift into 5th unless I'm on the highway doing at least 60 or it has no power at all. I would like to go up to at least a 410 just so I can have some power
That sounds weird. 258, T4 (once T5), 3.31 gears, and 33s. I used to be able to use 5th, but if I hit a hill, I'd have to down shift. You need to be careful with that T5 behind the 350. I'm surprised it hasn't gone yet. However, 5th is an overdrive gear and isn't meant to be used as the other gears, such as for power/acceleration. I couldn't imagine going into 5th before 60 mph with it anyway. Of course, if you lower the gears you'll be shifting sooner than you currently are, but as I said, you shouldn't be using 5th to get up to speed. It should be used as a "cruising" gear.

All in all, I think that 350 should have enough power to get you going and something sounds fishy.

What is your RPM at 60 mph?
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Unread 03-13-2013, 04:21 PM   #83
RamblingCJ
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S76,

I'm enjoying your build thread, btw. Props and good luck!!!
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Unread 03-13-2013, 04:58 PM   #84
S76
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Originally Posted by RamblingCJ View Post
S76,

I'm enjoying your build thread, btw. Props and good luck!!!
Thanks man. I'm gonna need all the good fortune I can get.

I worked on the frame this morning. (I work evenings) Welded in the 2nd plug patch and ground that smooth. Then welded on the long frame brace in the rear and forgot to drill the holes so the oil gets between the plates when i spray inside the frame. RATS! Oh well, will have to go with plan "B."

Today's welding lessons:

1. Wear gloves as I now have a pretty nasty sunburn on the back of my left hand.

2. All stray sparks will go straight in your sneaker.

3. Welding requires more thinking as it seems more permanent than bolting things together.

Bob
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Unread 03-13-2013, 05:31 PM   #85
S76
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Your Jeep will be lighter than the Mustang? By how much do you think?
Now you have me questioning my remark. I thought I read they were 2,500 lbs but on further investigation that is bare bones shipping weight, 4cyl. no top or doors, no gas, no nothing. So looking around on Google they seem to go anywhere from 3,100 to 4,000. So now I have no clue as to where this one will end up.
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Unread 03-13-2013, 05:34 PM   #86
RamblingCJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S76

Now you have me questioning my remark. I thought I read they were 2,500 lbs but on further investigation that is bare bones shipping weight, 4cyl. no top or doors, no gas, no nothing. So looking around on Google they seem to go anywhere from 3,100 to 4,000. So now I have no clue as to where this one will end up.
I used my vin awhile back and it said it was around 4150 stock, I believe. (86jeep)
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Unread 03-13-2013, 06:56 PM   #87
S76
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I used my vin awhile back and it said it was around 4150 stock, I believe. (86jeep)
Yeah, I believe that is the Gross weight not the empty weight. Someone correct me here if I'm wrong.

(Besides my wife.)
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Unread 03-13-2013, 07:11 PM   #88
RamblingCJ
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Originally Posted by S76

Yeah, I believe that is the Gross weight not the empty weight. Someone correct me here if I'm wrong.

(Besides my wife.)
You're correct. Been drinking
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Unread 03-13-2013, 07:15 PM   #89
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I'm running 33s with 3.54 gears, but also a T18. It is surprisinly good. The gear charts don't list 3.54s with 33s, 3.73 being the least amount of gear recommended (IIRC). I don't think you'll have an issue.
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Clay's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/cl...hread-1061897/
Scott's Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/sc...5-cj7-1147913/
Fallon (and Dad) Build Thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/f...-okee-1445206/
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Unread 03-13-2013, 07:21 PM   #90
RamblingCJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skerr
i'm running 33s with 3.54 gears, but also a t18. It is surprisinly good. The gear charts don't list 3.54s with 33s, 3.73 being the least amount of gear recommended (iirc). I don't think you'll have an issue.
x2
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