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Unread 02-08-2013, 11:57 AM   #61
tp355z
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Nothing quite like stock piling parts at the beginning of a build. Lookin' good!

You're going to have that jeep on the road before my 347 is done! lol

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Unread 02-08-2013, 03:08 PM   #62
S76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teh603 View Post
What kind of press are you going to use to press those things on?
Uh, Press? I hadn't really thought that far ahead. Good point. If I have to I'll take the stuff to work. We have a hyd press in the shop.
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Unread 02-09-2013, 08:04 PM   #63
S76
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While waiting for the "Nor Easter" Friday I was able to get the trans mostly assembled. I followed the instructions for a while but they got confusing so I just put it together. Awesome, the first thing I managed to get done on the rebuild. Well, almost done.





But today we woke up to 31" of snow. So it was game on for snow removal.














My son and I plowed for 12 hours and didn't finish. But it was nice having 2 trucks this year. We had to pull each other out of snowbanks 5 times.

Now I'm gonna take a nap and then go to bed.
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Unread 02-17-2013, 09:47 PM   #64
S76
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Not tons of progress so far. I did finish the T177 and am working on the Dana 300 but there was a problem with the instructions. I installed the gear and then installed the shaft through the gear and then pressed on the bearing.

This is the point I had to ask myself.....Why are both output shafts pointing forward? Doh! The picture was wrong. Rats. Had to take it all apart again.

But I managed to clean up the yokes and an Eldelbrock intake I picked up for the 302.


Dirty parts:






Clean Parts





Thank you Mr. Glass Bead Machine.
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Unread 02-18-2013, 09:18 PM   #65
S76
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Well today was a day of ups and downs.

I managed to get the D300 mostly assembled, but it took all day. Another mistake in the Novak instructions had me wrestling with the shifter rods for a couple of hours but I kind of enjoyed the challenge.






But, the Xfer case input they sent me is a much newer style and made a little different. Therefore, the transmission rear seal that I installed is too deep. It just barely catches the edge of the shaft. I'll have to replace it and just go flush.






And, they told me it would be a good idea to replace the strap type ujoint retainers with the ubolt type. "Just drill out the old yoke to make the ubolts fit."





So I did. I drilled out one side before I realized:








That's never going to work. Now I need a new yoke.

But it was a little progress anyway. I'm starting to realize nothing is going to come by leaps and bounds with this. But even a little progress is good.
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Unread 02-18-2013, 10:04 PM   #66
S76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teh603 View Post
What kind of press are you going to use to press those things on?

teh603,

I couldn't answer your question until I completed the rebuild. But I put the trans and xfer case together and didn't need a press. The bearings that were a snug fit I could tap them on with a drift. Just went real slow tapping only hard enought to see movement and only tapped on the inner race to not shock load the balls.

But a press would have been faster.
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Unread 02-18-2013, 10:13 PM   #67
dechlin
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Looking good, Makes me wanna get started on mine
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Unread 02-21-2013, 11:17 AM   #68
S76
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Well, the Devils Transmission continues it fight with me today.

Due to finding worn splines between the trans and xfer case I decided to use my special sauce on assembly. This consists of 3 parts Honda Moly grease and 1 part blue grease. The Honda moly grease is 60% Moly. Regular moly grease is about 10%. But using it on motorcycle splines I noticed it does dry out in time, so I mix in a little regular grease and it stays fluid.





So I intend to pack the xfer case splines with it. and what remains in the end of the bell, acted upon by centrifical force, should continue to lube the splines for years to come. But before I do that I want to make sure the trans mates nicely. So I assembled it as a dry run.

It don't fit!
At this point the trans shaft is getting hard to turn. That isn't good!






About 50 or 60 measurements later I find the problem. The new xfer case input shaft is not cut right. They left a ridge that does not allow the splines to engage all the way and it is backloading the transmission shaft. You can see the ridge in this pic.






Well I can't get in there with anything to relieve the ridge, so I decide to grind 1/8 off the end of the trans spline.





Another trial fit works perfect. So I pack the splines with my special sauce:





And it goes together nicely.





And the input shaft turns nice and free while in gear. FINALLY!!!!





There is one good thing that presents itself when things go all wrong. It can only get better from here.

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Unread 02-22-2013, 10:04 AM   #69
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I'm glad you posted all this malady up. Had I been doing the same thing I would never have figured it out! Frustration is one of the common sensations while building a CJ, but all you can do is press on. Eventually, you'll finish it up and look back, thinking "this didn't take long", "this wasn't so bad", and you'll want to do another! Egads!
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Unread 02-22-2013, 10:58 PM   #70
S76
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Agreed Skerr,

I thought it worthwhile to share these issues because this equipment is getting old and who knows where these replacement parts are coming from, (Where is the little Chinese Hat symbol?) and the stuff doesn't all fit as it should.

Looking forward to getting back to the frame work now. If it stops snowing every weekend.
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Unread 03-07-2013, 08:34 PM   #71
S76
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Grrrrrrrrrrrrr. Still snowing every few days.

STOP ALREADY WILL YA!
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Unread 03-10-2013, 08:14 AM   #72
S76
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Wish my Jeep would go together this fast:


http://www.youtube.com/watch_popup?v...layer_embedded
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Unread 03-10-2013, 05:17 PM   #73
S76
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Well today was a good day. I finally got some work done on the frame. These are the 2 bad spots on the right side.






And this one by the right front spring perch as the worst. Looks to me like I lost about 25% of the outer frame thickness.





This bothered me so I made a reinforcement plate for the bad spot.





This ought to stop it from wiggling around while I weld, or should I say attempt to weld.





There, welds are not too pretty but I think it will hold. It would probably have been OK without that but......





I had been working on making up the frame pieces over the last few weeks. This is the plug patch for that hole, Had to put some handles on it as it kept falling inside. And I welded that in.





Once everything was all ground smooth and the hole filled, I drilled it full of holes. There is a purpose for this madness. The last thing that will happen is the frame will be sprayed will bar and chain oil on the inside. I feel this is the best way to go as the oil will wick into all the metal overlaps and provide the best long term protection. I have been doing this on all my vehicles for years and they don't rust, unless I miss a spot. Every year I put the vehicles on a big sheet of poly and spray inside the doors tailgate frame everything. They do drip for a few weeks though.





And here is the reinforcing plate. It goes far enough forward to pick up the shock tower and motor mount. And goes well beyond the spring perch to tie it all together. The welds were getting better as I went along.




Now I will need to back drill the shock tower and motor mount holes.

The edges of the plate will be sealed with some kind of sealant and when I spray the oil in the frame with a 360 nozzle it will go through the holes I drilled and prevent rust between the plate and the frame.

Toward the end I actually got 2 good welds. Must have been a fluke.




I have one more plug patch in the rear on the same side and 3 more reinforcing plates to put on, (1 more front and 2 rears) all of which are already made.


And the last good thing to happen today was that I had about 8 broken bolts in the frame. Hey why not, it's a Jeep right? I soaked them in Kroil for 2 weeks. Nothing. Then I soaked them in PB Blaster for another 2 weeks. Nothing. So today I heated the area around them with a torch until it was red hot and you could take them out with a pair of pliers. Awesome. I even had 2 where the nut-serts were spinning in the frame and they came out too. so now I can just weld the loose nut-certs and I'm good to go.

Very encouraging day.
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Unread 03-11-2013, 02:52 PM   #74
CJ7ROB
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Good work, nice welding.
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Unread 03-11-2013, 10:35 PM   #75
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Nicely done! Haven't heard about the bar oil. Lots of discussion on what to use for internal protection. Will you plug your holes or leave them?
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