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Year End Clearance Sale! Save 20%Santa Kolak Announces: Kolak Exhaust 20% Off Sale!ROCK BOTTOM prices on LIFT KITS at Rockridge4wd!! WANT TO

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Unread 04-14-2013, 08:16 PM   #136
S76
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1984 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Stafford Springs, CT
Posts: 429
Well the frame paint finally cured and I had some excellent results



IF YOU LIKE SHINY BLACK!!!!!!!



16 hours of sanding another few hours to sray it, only to get exactly what I had to begin with. I'm done. It is what it is. It is a beautiful coat of paint though.

Time to move on to something more constructive. I need to pull the axles out of the old Jeep and get them ready for paint. Yes shiny paint, and then get them rebuilt. And get the springs on.

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Unread 04-14-2013, 09:20 PM   #137
dechlin
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1980 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: north haven, ct
Posts: 106
At least you didnt paint the frame red. Ive seen a few cj's for sale with red frames. Where is stafford springs exactly? I was up in stafford today at shenipsit forest.
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Unread 04-15-2013, 07:20 AM   #138
S76
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Stafford Springs, CT
Posts: 429
Quote:
Originally Posted by dechlin View Post
At least you didnt paint the frame red. Ive seen a few cj's for sale with red frames. Where is stafford springs exactly? I was up in stafford today at shenipsit forest.
Stafford - Stafford Springs, same thing. Exit 70 off I84N, take a left, 4 miles to the center of town. If you blink you'l miss main st. They had the swap meet at the race track downtown Sunday. I missed it.

Today I clean up the messy garage to start the next phase.
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Unread 04-20-2013, 07:28 AM   #139
tp355z
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Stafford, Connecticut
Posts: 22
All:

A transplant procedure is scheduled to get underway today. Goal is to get the current 302 removed from my Mustang and mounted on a stand for delivery to its new home (S76's Jeep).

I'll post pictures by the end of the day!
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Unread 04-20-2013, 04:41 PM   #140
S76
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Stafford Springs, CT
Posts: 429
The plan was for today to be productive on the Jeep. I got out the fire wrench and started removing the axles. Oh, by the way, brake fluid burns really easily.

The Dana 30 looked pretty good but the 20 not so much.









The AMC 20 will just need more work that's all. But then I found this.





But I still managed to get the 30 housing sandblasted. I figured it would be better to do this before I take it apart. The small parts, hubs and all, will all fit in the glass bead machine and be alot more civilized to do it that way. Sandblasting is a yucky job.





And here is a tip, pun intended. I have the old Jeep on jack stands, and when I removed the front axle it almost tipped over backward and fell on it's tail. So after removing the rear it was better but I still felt a need to weight the front end with leftover parts.





So now I need to find an AMC 20 with a good housing. I have gears, one piece axles, truss, disc brake setup, and all. Just need a good housing.


And, while I was crawling around cutting out the rear axle I noticed it has a plastic gas tank. That's good as that is what I planned on putting in. That should save me about the cost of an AMC 20. LOL
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Unread 04-20-2013, 06:52 PM   #141
tp355z
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Meanwhile, back in Stafford...with the 347 prepped for transplant, the 'Stang was pulled into the garage for surgery. It took about 7 hours to completely empty the engine bay and start pulling what I need to retain from the 302. With the valve covers and intake removed I was able to give the valvetrain the once over - everything looks good. The work done by S76 11 years ago (almost to the day) had held up well - the mark of a talented engine builder no doubt. Aside from the cork gaskets not aging too gracefully, the motor was in awesome shape.

Suffice it to say that this will probably be the only Jeep with a valvetrain good to 8,000 RPM.

One more evening of work and it'll be delivered - the next time you guys see pictures of the 302 it will be in my father's garage.
100_2119.jpg   100_2118.jpg   100_2136.jpg  
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Unread 04-20-2013, 08:23 PM   #142
S76
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Hey Ty how come those first 2 pics don't show unless you click them. Can you edit (fix) that.

And by the way I can't wait to get the motor back. 11 years??? Where did the time go? This Jeep is gonna be a rocket ship!

Fast as lightning with a high center of gravity! That's got to spell excitement!

By the way that 347 looks like a work of art!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Unread 04-20-2013, 10:02 PM   #143
ironmike1700
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S76
Hey Ty how come those first 2 pics don't show unless you click them. Can you edit (fix) that.

And by the way I can't wait to get the motor back. 11 years??? Where did the time go? This Jeep is gonna be a rocket ship!

Fast as lightning with a high center of gravity! That's got to spell excitement!

By the way that 347 looks like a work of art!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Let the fun begin!!!! Ill have to bring you some "refreshments" as I swing by to inspect progress!! Mike Larrivee
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Unread 04-21-2013, 05:12 AM   #144
tp355z
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Mike!!

Trust me, there were no refreshments yesterday except coffee and iced tea. Otherwise it would have been a 2 day job.
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Unread 04-27-2013, 04:23 PM   #145
S76
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SCORE!!!

I found a pair of axles to replace my AMC 20 with the rotted out axle tubes. Turns out these have 3:54 gears, which is what I wanted.
They do have some rust, (what 30 year part doesn't) but a huge improvement over what I had and very usable. And, only an hour away
from home. Perfect. I got them from "dechlin" on this forum, which I met for the first time today. Great guy, straight shooter.
A pleasure to do business with.





And, my son called and said he was bringing the 302 over. Awesome. I had to see how it looked in the frame.








This is going to be great. I now have more things started than I can finish. Suspension, axles, engine. I need some serious time to get going on this.
Maybe I can get a leave of absence from work or something.

I don't mind work, but I find it cuts into my day.
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Unread 04-28-2013, 12:12 AM   #146
ironmike1700
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It may cut into your day sadly but it allows you to be able to play and buy more toys & parts!!!
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Unread 04-28-2013, 08:00 AM   #147
S76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ironmike1700 View Post
It may cut into your day sadly but it allows you to be able to play and buy more toys & parts!!!

LOL. True dat!
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Unread 05-01-2013, 11:15 AM   #148
S76
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Location: Stafford Springs, CT
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I got the YJ spring conversion from Rocky Road. Well, some of the parts came and some didn't. I'm in no hurry we won't expand on that situation, yet.

But my problem now is I cannot understand completely how to install the shackles on my nice shiny black frame. Grr.

I know that sounds like a rediculous problem, I mean, how can anyone not understand how to install shackles? Well, it seems to me there is more to shackles than meets the eyelet. Not just for me, but for some of the manufacturers of greasable shackles also.

Details and discussion to follow tonight. Have to go to work now.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 07:53 PM   #149
S76
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Shackled in Confusion

I have read and absorbed all I can about shackles. And interestingly enough I have come to the firm conclusion that not
only is there a lot of misinformation floating on the web about how to install them, (not surprising,) but there are many
product manufacturers that don’t have a clue as to what they are building and what they are selling.
This I did find surprising. Let me explain.

Nomenclature: (To avoid confusion)

Sleeve- A hollow metal tube that goes inside the bushing.
Bushing- A rubber/polyurethane bushing that goes inside the spring eye.
Bolt- Well…ur..a bolt.

First concept.

Shackle torque. I have heard it all, from finger tight to 100 ft. lbs. If you think about what the main purpose of this joint is,
which is to pivot, then of course there needs to be a friction point. And that friction point is between the sleeve and the bushing,
not between the bolt and the sleeve! This is evident by the fact that the torque of the bolt, being somewhere from 40 to 80 ft. lbs.
will capture the sleeve between the shackles very tight. This torque should keep the sleeve from rotating around the bolt and also
the sleeve should not rotate in relation to the shackle. It should all be as one piece with this amount of torque.. When it is all as
one piece with the proper torque it will also prevent the shackles from tilting sideways in the famous parallelogram shape. Now,
when you have this torque applied, if the poly bushings are being distorted, (to tight) or the shackle has side play, (too loose)
then your sleeve is the wrong length, either too long or too short.

Second Concept

Now this presents another issue. I have looked a several “Greaseable” shackle bolt kits. Most of these are a joke. Many are
made all wrong. If you get a kit that has a drilled bolt for the grease to go through you have gained nothing but a lighter wallet.
Remember, the friction surface is between the sleeve and the plastic bushing. It does no good to put grease between the bolt
and the sleeve as there is no relative motion between the 2 when properly torqued. Here are some examples of worthless kits.

http://www.discountjeepparts.com/pro...ducts_id/20448


http://www.discountjeepparts.com/pro...ducts_id/50437


However these guys have their act together. Notice on the good kits that the sleeves also have been drilled to allow the
grease to get between the sleeve and the plastic bushing, where it is actually needed.

http://www.discountjeepparts.com/pro...ducts_id/22323


http://www.discountjeepparts.com/pro...ducts_id/32466


I have also seen greaseable kits where the shackle bolt rides directly on the bushing. This is more junk as the bolts
cannot be torqued tight without crushing the bushings. You have to have sleeves and they have to be tight. If this
tightness causes a bind you have the wrong sleeves, or you just may need to add a washer the same ID and OD of
the sleeve to relieve the clamp-up on the bushings.


Is all this true? I don’t know. I just made it all up. But after studying the situation for a week it is an understanding
that makes sense to me and the approach I will use to set up my shackles so they are torqued dead TIGHT yet will
pivot without binding, distortion, or any looseness.

If anyone can shed more light or understanding please advise.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 08:01 PM   #150
firemanjim7
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1983 CJ7 
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Giddings, Tx
Posts: 150
Quote:
Originally Posted by S76
Shackled in Confusion

I have read and absorbed all I can about shackles. And interestingly enough I have come to the firm conclusion that not
only is there a lot of misinformation floating on the web about how to install them, (not surprising,) but there are many
product manufacturers that don’t have a clue as to what they are building and what they are selling.
This I did find surprising. Let me explain.

Nomenclature: (To avoid confusion)

Sleeve- A hollow metal tube that goes inside the bushing.
Bushing- A rubber/polyurethane bushing that goes inside the spring eye.
Bolt- Well…ur..a bolt.

First concept.

Shackle torque. I have heard it all, from finger tight to 100 ft. lbs. If you think about what the main purpose of this joint is,
which is to pivot, then of course there needs to be a friction point. And that friction point is between the sleeve and the bushing,
not between the bolt and the sleeve! This is evident by the fact that the torque of the bolt, being somewhere from 40 to 80 ft. lbs.
will capture the sleeve between the shackles very tight. This torque should keep the sleeve from rotating around the bolt and also
the sleeve should not rotate in relation to the shackle. It should all be as one piece with this amount of torque.. When it is all as
one piece with the proper torque it will also prevent the shackles from tilting sideways in the famous parallelogram shape. Now,
when you have this torque applied, if the poly bushings are being distorted, (to tight) or the shackle has side play, (too loose)
then your sleeve is the wrong length, either too long or too short.

Second Concept

Now this presents another issue. I have looked a several “Greaseable” shackle bolt kits. Most of these are a joke. Many are
made all wrong. If you get a kit that has a drilled bolt for the grease to go through you have gained nothing but a lighter wallet.
Remember, the friction surface is between the sleeve and the plastic bushing. It does no good to put grease between the bolt
and the sleeve as there is no relative motion between the 2 when properly torqued. Here are some examples of worthless kits.

http://www.discountjeepparts.com/pro...ducts_id/20448

http://www.discountjeepparts.com/pro...ducts_id/50437

However these guys have their act together. Notice on the good kits that the sleeves also have been drilled to allow the
grease to get between the sleeve and the plastic bushing, where it is actually needed.

http://www.discountjeepparts.com/pro...ducts_id/22323

http://www.discountjeepparts.com/pro...ducts_id/32466

I have also seen greaseable kits where the shackle bolt rides directly on the bushing. This is more junk as the bolts
cannot be torqued tight without crushing the bushings. You have to have sleeves and they have to be tight. If this
tightness causes a bind you have the wrong sleeves, or you just may need to add a washer the same ID and OD of
the sleeve to relieve the clamp-up on the bushings.

Is all this true? I don’t know. I just made it all up. But after studying the situation for a week it is an understanding
that makes sense to me and the approach I will use to set up my shackles so they are torqued dead TIGHT yet will
pivot without binding, distortion, or any looseness.

If anyone can shed more light or understanding please advise.
I see your in aircraft maintenance. This explains a lot.

Sent from my iPhone using JeepForum
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