I am going to u bolt it to my axle instead of weld it, though. Murph
Its just gonna spin on that ubolt. You have to weld it, there's no away around it given the forces involved.
Double-wall the portion of your tube that it welds to spread it out 3-4 inches wider than it actually needs to be. That should prevent it from ripping out the tube again, assuming you fixed the first issue where the tub rotated in the diff case.
Traction bars actually do a poor job of controlling spring wrap vs. a ladder bar. But they are a bolt-on, which probably is why you see so many people who can't weld or fab running them.
I've been running a ladder for a few years now w/ a Ford 8.8 and a SBC w/ 300+ ft/lbs torque and never had a problem, and 8.8's are notorious for the tubes rotating. I hit it with everything on the street from time to time too.
Those might be fine for a drag car but they will limit your flex, make your springs bend in funny ways they aren't supposed to as the suspension cycles, and eventually break at the weakest link. They will fight the axle's need to move slightly forwards and backwards as the suspension moves. Compression pushes the axle back, droop makes it need to move forward, relative to static height. This is why a shackle or something equivalent is a must on a traction bar for a vehicle with a lot of flex. It allows the axle to still move forwards and backwards.
Use a proper ladder bar. There's lots of bad ways to do anti-wrap/traction bars - this is one of them.
I knew a guy who used to use chains in a similar manner, which solves the issue with droop, but doesn't solve the compression problem. They also kept tearing off at the mount or ripping a chunk out of the axle tube. He said it was the welds, but it was the design - it sucks. Eventually he ditched them.