spring plate traction bars - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 24 Old 08-14-2013, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
arkiemurph
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1985 CJ7 
 
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spring plate traction bars

I built a ladder bar setup. It's been ok, but some trouble. First off, a weld broke loose, bolt sheared, and axle tube spun. Got the axle tube straightened up and welded. Then an actual peice of my axle tube tore out, leaving about a 2" diameter hole. Got that fixed. Buddy of mine whose a good mech., says I should try some traction bars that he has. They're the kind that mount on the spring plate on each side. Would these screw up my flex? After searching, it seems that everybody uses ladder bars on their CJ's.

Murph


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post #2 of 24 Old 08-14-2013, 10:44 AM
82JeepCJ7
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Ladder bars are good for drag cars and trucks pulling a sled. Build one like this.








Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
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post #3 of 24 Old 08-14-2013, 10:47 AM
titomars
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I use the dual bar setup from Warrior called Traction Barz. They work quite well for me. I don't do any wild rock crawling but you do have the option of disconnecting them in the middle for more freedom. 2 square tubes one inside the other. I substituted the supplied bolts for quick disco pins.

1981 Jeep CJ7 4.0 HO, AX-15, D300, D30, D44, SOA
1977 Chevrolet C/10 step side 454 TH400 3.73 posi
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post #4 of 24 Old 08-14-2013, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
arkiemurph
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 82JeepCJ7 View Post
Ladder bars are good for drag cars and trucks pulling a sled. Build one like this.







Thats basically what I have (had).

Murph

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post #5 of 24 Old 08-14-2013, 01:24 PM
84scrambler
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Stick a 2x4 behind your gas pedal.

Usually I don't hear that much damage to an axle from a trac. bar. At this point if you don't want to change your driving style then its time to upgrade to a bigger axle that has sufficient strength that can handle it. Dana 60 or a ford 9" will have sufficient tube thickness to handle what you have (assuming you have a 4.2, and the model 20 is what you are destroying).
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post #6 of 24 Old 08-14-2013, 01:27 PM
AFRd_CJ5
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The last thing you want to do is put "traction bars" on. And this is coming from somebody who drag races their CJ....

'76 CJ5
434 pump gas SBC with an NX/HVH plate system
th350/Coan 5,000 converter/Dana 300 tcase
Dana 30 front with 4.56's/Dana 44 rear with 4.88's
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post #7 of 24 Old 08-14-2013, 01:33 PM
82JeepCJ7
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Mine flexes just fine (1000 RTI Score)




Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
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post #8 of 24 Old 08-14-2013, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
arkiemurph
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This is basically what I had (which I can still put back on with some work). Exact same bar, except I did away with the u-bolts and welded it to my axle tube and built a cross peice in the front to mount my shackle to instead of attaching to the skid plate.

My bud has the kind that bolt to the spring plates on both sides. So the spring plate type is a bad idea? That's all I really need to know. Thanks for the responses!

Murph
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post #9 of 24 Old 08-14-2013, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
arkiemurph
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFRd_CJ5 View Post
The last thing you want to do is put "traction bars" on. And this is coming from somebody who drag races their CJ....
Gotcha, thanks, and you ARE talking about the kind that bolt to your spring plates, right? Sorry, I'm not real clear on the names of these traction aid devices!

Murph

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post #10 of 24 Old 08-14-2013, 02:37 PM
82JeepCJ7
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What you really want, is about 8" of distance between the upper and lower bar, and the mount attached to the axle housing tubes. Anything narrower and the bar will not have the "leverage" to counteract torque.

Beat it to fit, paint it to match!

Wheel, Wrench, Repeat.
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post #11 of 24 Old 08-14-2013, 04:55 PM
skizriz
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I have the same basic setup as 82jeepcj7 does. Mines just a simple bar I made from 1" pipe and some old shackle bushings I had laying around. I never ramped it with and without, but can do over 1000 with it.
I think it's even more important to weld the pumpkin to the tubes on an AMC 20 when installing a traction bar. The pumpkin is still trying to rotate upwards, but instead of having the cushion of the springs as it tries to twist, the bar will hold the axle tubes solidly in place as the pumpkin torques upwards. No more give to it.








78 CJ7.. 258.. TH400/Dana18.. SOA/stock YJ springs.. 35" General Grabbers.. Waggy 44s.. 4.88 gears...Spartan/Lockright...Fiberglass front to rear
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post #12 of 24 Old 08-15-2013, 07:28 PM
papa355
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I plan on destroying my AMC 20, so i can have an excuse to upgrade, and can tell the wife I told you so

1977 CJ7, 360 AMC with HEI, TH400 quadratrac, dana30, AMC20, SOA, 35" M/T MTZ
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post #13 of 24 Old 08-16-2013, 08:51 AM
AFRd_CJ5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arkiemurph View Post
Gotcha, thanks, and you ARE talking about the kind that bolt to your spring plates, right? Sorry, I'm not real clear on the names of these traction aid devices!

Murph
Yep, those are what I was talking about

'76 CJ5
434 pump gas SBC with an NX/HVH plate system
th350/Coan 5,000 converter/Dana 300 tcase
Dana 30 front with 4.56's/Dana 44 rear with 4.88's
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post #14 of 24 Old 08-16-2013, 09:06 AM
7CJ5White6
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may be a stupid question but with one end on the axle what is the other end attached too? can someone post a pic of this?

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/1976-cj5-complete-tear-down-rebuild-1476311/
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post #15 of 24 Old 08-16-2013, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
arkiemurph
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M

Quote:
Originally Posted by AFRd_CJ5 View Post
Yep, those are what I was talking about
Ok, you've convinced me to go back to my track bar. Started working on it yesterday. I am going to u bolt it to my axle instead of weld it, though. That way it will slip if I put it in a real bind. My axle tubes are welded up now, so no more slipped tubes. Thanks for the replies. Best Jeep forum around!

Murph

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