[Happy Joe]

I have to agree... for a daily driver/dual purpose rig the lift should be kept to 4" or under ('cause I'm gettin' old and fat and entering/exiting a SOA vehicle with large tires and adequate tire clearance can get to be a PITA).
For mild trails/DD 4" and 33s makes sense.
The most expensive springs that I've used were $50 for 4 OEM wrangler springs (only used the rears) which lasted more than 5 years (with an anti-wrap bar).
The biggest single expense is the dropped pitman arm or maybe the shocks (unless you are changing axles).

You get what you can build, paying for other peoples' thought/fabrication and profit doesn't make cents in my (check) book.

Enjoy!

[BESRK]

Originally Posted by jpfaris

I have to disagree with that Besrk. Most people don't buy new springs to go SOA. To me thats half the point. And high steer is not a required step, no matter how many people sing it's praises. I know we have been through this before. Will somebody sponsor an experimental project so we can show the world that a SOA can be done correctly for less than a Box Kit SUA. (and get more lift and articulation)

I suppose alot don't bother to go with new springs. However, I think you'd "maximize" the benefits of a SOA with new springs. I've seen quite a few SOAs with sagged out springs (mainly hard driven trail rigs) and even have one buddy who would strap a few "trail spares" into his rig. I know a SOA can be done by cutting off the old perches, using those same perches up top and bolting everything back together. It can also be done with stock YJ springs. I also agree that High Steer is not absolutely necessary.. but I think it's better.
I am of the mindset of "point and shoot without parts breakage".

Note.. the building/wheeling attitude and philosophy of the person writing this does not reflect the thoughts and ideas of a sane mind.

[Bard]

SOA works great for me. I like the sag of the original saggy springs on the trail, of course I have had my own issues with blowing the rear driveshaft out of it each ride in the same spot. So I had to figure out what was the issue and what would fix it. I thought about new springs, cost and went a different route.

I run my stock springs with 2 extra leafs in the front and rear and still have enough flex with the old saggy springs (added 2 1/2" ad a leafs to get them a little bit stiffer, always change your spring bushings to new if you do this, greasable are better ( I know I use to disagree with them before, but they are nice). New driveshaft u-joints are key as well in my book. Went against the anti wrap bar for now.

As for steering, I just run a 4" drop steering arm, adjusted both the tie rod and draglink. I have looked at the high steer set up, but I have enough clearance on my springs where it rarely rubs on them.

SOA is a pain to set up correctly if you have never done one, no one to show you or walk you thru the process and the budget to fix what doesn't work the first round.

[rmc429]

My concerns are not with the price of doing the SOA lift. I guess i am alot older than when I had my first CJ w/4" SUA and now I feel every bump in the road.Thats why I am considering taking my 4" springs off and going with a GOOD SOA W/probably 1.5 RE SOA springs. I have concerns of the ride and drivability at hwy speeds. Can Anyone help me on this? Bersk you seem very knowledgable and experienced on this. You have any suggestions?
I want to run prob. 35's and it is a DD right now. I have mech. ability and a cert. welder on hand so all that is not an issue. Any advice is appreciated

[brussell]

Get a Skyjacker 4" kit, 33's. winch and lockers. It will go almost anywhere and you can drive it to the trail. Everyone I know who has done spring overs and other radical designs spends more time working on them. Wrap is horrible, things always break and you have to tow the thing to the woods. Forget that.

[rmc429]

I have all of what you mentioned except superlift springs and it rides like a jack-hammer. I know it is a Jeep and is not supposed to ride like a Cadilac. These are the worst riding springs I have ever had('81CJ7-Trailmaster,'91 YJ-Superlift, now a '86CJ7-Superlift) So this why I am trying to weigh all options for a DD before I throw anymore money away. I ain't skared to do the work, i just want to have an idea that it is going to work-- if done right

[BESRK]

I ran the RE 1.5 springs SOA for a few years.. first on 35s then, on the front with 42s. I really liked those springs. I ran the 6 leaf pack in the rear to help with axle wrap until I finally got around to building an anti-wrap bar. I used to do burnouts with 35" TSLs and the springs held up well. If I had to describe the RE 1.5" springs.. I'd say they offer "controlled flexibility".

I didn't drive a lot at highways speeds but when I did, the Jeep rode great. Shocks have as much to do with ride quality as the springs do. I ran Rancho RS9000s on the softest setting. I also ran a set of Doestch (sp?) Tech DT 3000s with good results.

If you've got the time/money/know how, then a SOA can be made to work very well.



If I were gonna do it....

I'd use the RE 1.5" springs.

Softest 10"-12" travel shocks I could find (set with about 4" of shaft stickout at static ride height).

High steer (preferably stepping up to a front D44 axle with flat top knuckles while I'm doing all the fab work) with beefed up steering linkage (1.5"x.250" DOM tube and 1ton rod ends).

CV rear shaft (1310 is okay.. 1350 for brutal beatings).

[molsenice]

Note.. the building/wheeling attitude and philosophy of the person writing this does not reflect the thoughts and ideas of a sane mind.

Now there is an understament if I've ever read one hahahahahahahah

don't get me wrong - I like the philosphy

[Happy Joe]

Axel wrap is indeed a problem with SOA. It is easily fixable with an anti wrap bar. I would not recommend SOA without an anti-wrap bar (once the rear springs are bent they will need replacing and they can be bent, without an anti-wrap bar, even on moderate trails).

SOA is not extreme nor even much of a mod (It came OEM on a number of vehicles).

For best highway driveability either rotate the knuckles to a reasonable caster setting (I like 6 degrees) or install the front axle spring perches exactly parallel to the lower perches (maintaining the stock caster settings) (assumes reasonable shackle length, no shackle reversal, and no band aids, like caster shims).

IMO, a dropped pitman is the way to go to avoid bump steer with SOA.

I'm currently on my third personal SOA Jeep and they have all worked well, on and off road, and all run down the highway as well as a stock vehicle (a bit scary in high crosswinds, though) (its a lifted Jeep not a sports car; for safest driving mind the speed limits and corner at reasonable speeds).
My ride is always better than any leaf style lift springs that I have yet experienced due to the fact that I like running low arch (near flat) YJ springs with an added leaf (second leaf down immediately below the main leaf) in the rear. I definitely agree with the use of soft shocks for best ride; leaf springs have high internal friction and do not need much control from shock absorbers (A friend who now has my old CJ-5 (SOA) used to comment on how well it rode, he changed the shocks to some kind of extra long "heavy duty" shocks and now he complains about the ride and wants to change to coils to improve the ride. He seems unable to make the connection between the new shocks and the bad ride.)

If lift springs and/or a flat belly mod are being considered in addition to SOA, it may be necessary to rotate the front differential to maintain a reasonable drive shaft angle and ujoint to pinion/transfer case yoke clearance. If this is the case it will be necessary to cut and turn the knuckles to maintain adequate caster and safe highway characteristics.

High steer seems like a reasonable, (not essential) thing to do (SOA, or not) and I will likely include it on the front 44 that I am building (gotta check for some flat top knuckles next trip to the salvage yard).
Enjoy!

[jeepskate]

Originally Posted by rmc429

I have all of what you mentioned except superlift springs and it rides like a jack-hammer. I know it is a Jeep and is not supposed to ride like a Cadilac. These are the worst riding springs I have ever had('81CJ7-Trailmaster,'91 YJ-Superlift, now a '86CJ7-Superlift) So this why I am trying to weigh all options for a DD before I throw anymore money away. I ain't skared to do the work, i just want to have an idea that it is going to work-- if done right

Did you buy the HD springs or the Super-ride springs? What're you running for shocks? What're you running for shackles & bushings? Have you pried open the spring clamps? I've been able to get quite a few rough-riding Jeeps tamed (save for Pro-Comp springs) simply by running softer valved shocks, greasable bushings with not-too-tight shackles, and loosening the bend-over style spring clamps. I'd tweak what you have (low-buck) and see where you are at that point, then I'd be more likely to just swap springs to some RE XD's if it still isn't too your liking. I think SOA is a bit overboard for what you're looking to do.

You're talking about getting older...the climb into an SOA rig for a DD ain't exactly fun...heck the climb with 35's ain't exactly fun. I went to 35's on my DD and while it rides & handles great, the simple physics of it all makes me seriously consider dropping back down to a 32 or 33 and removing some of the lift...it was far more suitable as a DD with 3" of lift and 32's.

[rmc429]

the springs were supposed to be Super ride but I dont know how to tell the diff.? Pro comp3000 shocks (i have about decided this is alot my problem)I loosened clamps greased stock shackles lossened them also I aint gonna give up on my 7 i'll just have to get a kidney belt to wear J/K

[jeepskate]

Those shocks are very similar to Rancho RS5000's...way too stiff for CJ's...get rid of them. Lose the stock shackles and get yourself some decent greasable shackles with bolt-in cross-braces (MORE, Currie, etc). These are all items that will carry over if you end up doing an SOA anyway, so you won't end up tossing them out.

[smokedog]

Just finished SOA w/ YJ springs in front and CJ springs in the back. Used currie rock crawler greasable shackles and Bilstein 5150 shocks. Still need to put on anti-wrap bar (mountainoffroad.com) and swaybar. Bought a YJ swaybar for the width since we had to outbore the front springs due to the extra width.

My question would be what size quick disconnects for this application.....My mounts for the disconnects are on the center of the axle tube. Would you go with 2.5 - 6 inch or 0 - 2.5 or what???