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#1 | |
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Registered User
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Spring over lift??????
Should i do it or not i'm new to the jeep world i've always had odl chevrolets????? and why??? it's on a 1984 cj7... Thanks for any advice..
Last edited by byrdi; 01-22-2008 at 08:01 AM.. |
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#2 |
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Registered User
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Unless you have extemsive fabrication experience and will be able to devise a safe steering system and traction bars, just go with a standard lift.
__________________
1977 Cj5, 258, T-18, 2.46:1 Dana 20, 2.5" BDS lift, OBA, 38.5's. Chevy 60 frt, 14b Rear, Full hydro, 102"wb, full DOM cage. |
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#3 |
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Registered User
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nobody has any input????
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#4 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: North East Texas, Texas
Posts: 992
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If it is not necessary, and doesn't improve reliability or performance then it is always best to leave mechanical systems as they were engineered by Experienced, Educated Teams of people! Jeeps of days gone by were engineered primarily to be dependable, tough, simple and durable. Those days are long gone, but you are fortunate enough to have an example from some of the last years that was true. I would suggest not trying to reinvent the wheel until you know for SURE that something is needed!
Bruce |
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#5 |
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Registered User
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yeah the only reason i am looking to do it is because i found a good deal on some 35's
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#6 |
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Registered User
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Should you or not?.. only you can answer this.
Why?... added articulation for better trail performance and lift to clear bigger tires. Also; cheaper than spring lifts and rides better. (If you are doing this for the look go with a spring lift instead). To use 35s off road (not rub) you will need, apropriate gears and the TJ rear flair mod. Standard CJ formula (stock springs); Dropped pitman arm, Fabricate front axle spring pads, weld them on parallel to the original pads. May need new U bolts. Purchase and weld on rear axle pads. Longer front brake lines. Fabricate anti-wrap bar, weld to axle and cross bar. Longer drivers side E-brake cable. New, longer, shocks. Extend drive shafts if necessary. Adjust headlights If you need additional instructions you should probably seek the personal assistance of some one experienced in this mod. Downsides; a lifted Jeep is not a sports car (do not expect it to handle like one), some localities have laws against suspension modification, some have headlight/bumper height laws. Enjoy!
__________________
...a well prepped, well driven, vehicle should do well in any terrain, including the highway. Carburetors became obsolete during the last century... do what ever it takes to get fuel injection...It makes bigger grins off road. |
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#7 |
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Registered User
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thanks for all the help fellas
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#8 |
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Registered User
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Additional things that I just remembered;
Flip the leaf spring center bolts. Relocate the rear axle end of the brake line hose to the top of the differential housing. Enjoy!
__________________
...a well prepped, well driven, vehicle should do well in any terrain, including the highway. Carburetors became obsolete during the last century... do what ever it takes to get fuel injection...It makes bigger grins off road. |
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#9 |
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Web Wheeler
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You know, I have a buddy who did this and I have to say it came out great. He is just an amateur welder and did a really good job rewelding the perches to the top of the axle.
IMO, if you are a good welder and have some good mechanical aptitude, Id say go for it. I have a 4" RC lift and enjoy it, but it does seem really stiff. Just my 2c.
__________________
1985 Jeep CJ-7 Automatic-258 I6- Detroit lockers front/rear - Superior 1-piece axles, Ramsey Pro 9000 Winch, Quick Disconnects, 33 BFG AT's, 4.10 gears, Howell TBI, DUI HEI Ignition, Ground Pounder Rear Bumper / Tire Carrier Combo, Handen Fab integrated winch plate front bumper w/hoop, ORF weld-in front sport cage. USMC 1999-2004 Semper Fi! Torchmate CNC Plasma Table Build / Projects |
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#10 |
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Registered User
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I wouldn't do it. I bought a cj7 that was SOA and i hated driving it. I bought it to part it out, so I didn't care. My complaint is with the turning radius. It is horrible after SOA. What it took my stock cj7 one turn it took the SOA cj 3 turns.
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1982 CJ8 1986 CJ7 1979 CJ5 258 I6 3 speed 1999 Dodge Durango |
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#11 |
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Web Wheeler
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That's what happens when people don't know what they're doing or take shortcuts.
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'86 CJ-7 Laredo: 4.2,T-999,D300,D30/D44,'94 YJ tub, full cage, Shrockworks rockers, OYR corners, AC,cruise,restored seats,3 tops,2.5" Superlift,F-T shackle reversal, RS9000x's,35" Dunlop Mud Rovers. '83 Scrambler: time & money pit under construction with parts from CJ's,YJ's,TJ's,FSJ's,GM,Ford,IH,Honda,Toyota and a whole lotta aftermarket & custom stuff. http://www.jeepskate.net |
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#12 |
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GO ONE MORE!!
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I would suggest you read up on "axlewrap" before you SOA, lifts are a dime a dozen out there, and you will be just as happy with the results, I have hauled more than one JEEP off the trail due to destroyed driveshafts resulting from weak springs fatigued from "wrap"....your call but I would avoid it.
Tom |
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#13 |
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Registered User
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Its hard to see where the turning radius would have been affected even on a botched SOA (same axle, same wheelbase, only difference should be the spring mounting), but I suppose there is no limit to the ingenuity of idiots.
Spring wrap is easily countered with an anti wrap bar (easy to make). ...Short story the above formula is well proven and works very well. Enjoy!
__________________
...a well prepped, well driven, vehicle should do well in any terrain, including the highway. Carburetors became obsolete during the last century... do what ever it takes to get fuel injection...It makes bigger grins off road. |
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#14 |
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GROUND POUNDER
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The steering was probably not corrected for the amount of lift.. result is better turning to the left than to the right. Or.. it was done using a Scout axle with the obnoxiously long steering arms.. who knows.
I've done a few SOAs that turned out well. However, on my current project "dual purpose" rig, I'm probably going to stay SUA with 4" of lift and 33s. I'd even run 35s with SUA and just add a small body lift and some fender trimming. Now, if I were leaning more towards a "trail rig" with 36"+ tires... I'd probably go SOA... again. As for "bang for buck".. by the time you factor in quality SOA springs (like RE 1.5" Reverse eyes), bracketry, high steer, longer shocks (basically everything you need to maximize the SOA experience), you'll be in for more than a good SUA lift. Shoot.. my RE 1.5" springs cost $600 alone.. plus shipping. Sure, it can be done for cheaper.. but you'll usually get what you put into it.. Cheap SOA = short spring life, excessive body roll, bump steer.... etc. Just my .02
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'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 3.73s, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s.. Lower 2 Guardrail Down Schoolbus Slickrock Tellico Save Crozet More Crozet |
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#15 |
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Registered User
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I have to disagree with that Besrk. Most people don't buy new springs to go SOA. To me thats half the point. And high steer is not a required step, no matter how many people sing it's praises. I know we have been through this before. Will somebody sponsor an experimental project so we can show the world that a SOA can be done correctly for less than a Box Kit SUA. (and get more lift and articulation)
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79 CJ7, 304, TF727, D300, FULL WIDTH D44's, 4.56:1, SPOOL LOCKERS, SOA, OUTBOARDED, SHACKLES REVERSED, HOMEMADE D-SHAFTS, 38.5" BOGGERS |
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