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-   -   Spray in bedliner > You Do It (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/spray-bedliner-you-do-460435/)

turpehar 09-09-2007 09:36 PM

Spray in bedliner > You Do It (8 month update)
 
I just wanted to pass along my experience doing a spray in bedliner on my 77 CJ5. I purchased U-Pol Raptor, which comes in a kit of four one liter bottles and and enough activator to mix all four bottles.

You perform your typical prep. Dissassemble and clean, then make any repairs you may not want to show. I used Bondo brand fiberglass resin jelly to bond the interitor corners on my AJ's glass body, and to fill some old bolt holes and take care of other imperfections. I then scuffed the entire interior using 100 grit dry paper. Blow out the debris.

Wipe everything down now with a damp clean cloth, then follow up by wiping down with a grease, wax, and silicone remover. Tape/mask off anything you don't want covered. Use a tack cloth to remove everything left behing after cleaning.

To spray, you'll need a compressor capable of stubstaining at least 40 psi while you're spraying. The manufacturer recommended 40-70 psi during the spray. I think 70 psi is overkill. It sprayed fine at 40 psi.

I put on two full coats at 90 degrees F with about thirty minutes between the two. This used two of the four bottles. I used the entire third bottle going around making sure to get into those hard to reach/see areas. This is where a spare pair of eyes helped. Once I was sure that I had everything covered, I used the remainder of the third bottle to put a third coat on the heavy use areas, mainly the floor. After that I emptied out just moving around trying to insure uniformity.

When done it looked realy good. Eight months later, it still looks great! I helped a friend do his as well.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC00974.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC00973.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC00972.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC00971.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC00970.jpg

Oily 09-09-2007 10:16 PM

Did the kit come with the sprayer ?
How much was the U-Pol Raptor kit ?
Looks good, :thumbsup: .

turpehar 09-09-2007 10:25 PM

Sure. It comes as a kit in a box complete with hardner and "Shutz" gun.
I bought it off ebay and shiiped to my door it was like $103. If you clean the gun out you can reuse it.

fast54vw 09-10-2007 12:39 AM

how well does it insulate the floor from heat?
my floor gets pretty hot under my feet (just the metal, nothing on top)

Pacfanweb 09-10-2007 01:13 AM

Looks pretty good.

How well does it hide scratches and imperfections?

1979CJ7 09-10-2007 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by turpehar
I just wanted to pass along my experience doing a spray in bedliner on my 77 CJ5. I purchased U-Pol Raptor, which comes in a kit of four one liter bottles and and enough activator to mix all four bottles.

You perform your typical prep. Dissassemble and clean, then make any repairs you may not want to show. I used Bondo brand fiberglass resin jelly to bond the interitor corners on my AJ's glass body, and to fill some old bolt holes and take care of other imperfections. I then scuffed the entire interior using 100 grit dry paper. Blow out the debris.

Wipe everything down now with a damp clean cloth, then follow up by wiping down with a grease, wax, and silicone remover. Tape/mask off anything you don't want covered. Use a tack cloth to remove everything left behing after cleaning.

To spray, you'll need a compressor capable of stubstaining at least 40 psi while you're spraying. The manufacturer recommended 40-70 psi during the spray. I think 70 psi is overkill. It sprayed fine at 40 psi.

I put on two full coats at 90 degrees F with about thirty minutes between the two. This used two of the four bottles. I used the entire third bottle going around making sure to get into those hard to reach/see areas. This is where a spare pair of eyes helped. Once I was sure that I had everything covered, I used the remainder of the third bottle to put a third coat on the heavy use areas, mainly the floor. After that I emptied out just moving around trying to insure uniformity.

When done it looked realy good. See you at the 4wheel and off road nationals at Indy on the 22nd and 23rd of September

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC00974.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC00973.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC00972.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC00971.jpg
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC00970.jpg

looks really good man!!:cheers2: :cheers2: :cheers2: :cheers2:

jeepmor 09-10-2007 06:09 AM

Wow, that looks good.

I had mine Arma coated (LIneX cousin at the time) over 10 years ago and it still looks great. But I paid about 10x that to have my tub done, and the entire underside.

Wow, again that looks awesome. You should send your pics to the manufacturer or the ebay source you got the stuff from, your work represents the product very well.

jeepmor 09-10-2007 06:13 AM

sorry, double tap.

1984CJ 09-10-2007 06:53 AM

I like what you did with the High beam switch.
I may look into mounting mine like that.

turpehar 09-10-2007 12:45 PM

Q: "How well does it insulate the floor from heat?"

A: This does nothing for insulation purposes.

Q: "How well does it hide scratches and imperfections?"

A: I used 100grit paper to sand, so it hid that. Note to self: If you have a glass tub, and it's an older/cheaper model, now is the time to make it look really good. Use fiberglass resin to fill in and complete those rough lines where interior and exterior pieces were glued together. Notice the back of the tub in my pic's. Ththe floor section and the exterior section comes together there and I hit it with this method. Have a "cheese grater" close by to hit the high spots before they get to hard. This will save you and enourmous amount of time and energy.

Comment: "You should send your pics to the manufacturer or the ebay source you got the stuff from, your work represents the product very well."

Reply to comment: I tried that and then the local sales rep stiffed me. I think he was afraid I was trying to steal his territory, which I could care less. I'm up for doing custom jobs, but not for becoming a product salesmen. At Hanks 4x4 Jamboree, a guy told me he paid Rhino $2200 to do the inside of his tub and the inner and outer fenderwells. Thats about twice as much as what it should cost.

MDCJ 09-10-2007 07:24 PM

That does really look good. I am thinking about either rolling or spraying for my tub as well. Just a dumb question though: What do you do about the holes for the seats, etc.?

turpehar 09-10-2007 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MDCJ
That does really look good. I am thinking about either rolling or spraying for my tub as well. Just a dumb question though: What do you do about the holes for the seats, etc.?

Thanks
You won't have to do anything with the holes you want to preserve. It will only leave a bit around the edge of the hole which you can redrill or leave. If you can (and I know you can) water flowers with a garden hose you can spray this stuff. Don't be afraid. If you want a color match you can buy a tintable pack, then just add the color you want in urethane single stage.

mmerlina 09-11-2007 05:49 AM

That looks really nice and uniform, great job man. Did you use an expensive spray gun or just some like $40 job?

Again nice work,

Fatman 09-11-2007 06:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mmerlina
That looks really nice and uniform, great job man. Did you use an expensive spray gun or just some like $40 job?

Quote:

Originally Posted by turpehar
It comes as a kit in a box complete with hardner and "Shutz" gun.


Nice job! Very clean.

jeepmor 09-11-2007 07:38 AM

Having had mine done years ago, another way to fill those pesky gaps on a metal tub is to visit your auto paint supply store and get a tube of urethane to use in a caulking gun. Mine turned out as good as this one, but cost much more. It did get complete coverage, but I would have been much happier if I would have spent a few bucks and an hour filling the gaps with urethane.


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