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post #1 of Old 11-28-2015, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
escrouse
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Spray in bedliner - Sacrifical bolts or...

I'm about to spray my CJ tub with Nason Ful-Poxy then a spray in bedliner. Lots of stuff bolts in to the tub so I'm trying to decide the best way to protect the threads. It would only take about $20 to buy a bunch of sacrificial bolts but it really seems like I could just stuff bits of blue paper shop towel in there and be just fine.

Who has DIYd this before and what did you do? I've got a tap and die set so even if I bugger up the threads with primer or liner I can easily clean them out. Seems like a no brainer to me but a friends swears of I don't put the sacrificial bolts in I'll regret it. He says lube them up with cooking spray and there will be no tear out when I remove them, otherwise I'll be cutting blue paper towel out for ages.

opinions?

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post #2 of Old 11-28-2015, 11:37 PM
CSP
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Rubber stoppers or foam ear plugs in the holes.
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post #3 of Old 11-29-2015, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
escrouse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSP View Post
Rubber stoppers or foam ear plugs in the holes.
Excellent, hadn't though of that. Thanks!
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post #4 of Old 11-29-2015, 02:18 AM
GP_Pete
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Yup. Foam ear plugs is what i used. Just be sure to pull them out before it hardens.
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post #5 of Old 11-29-2015, 09:49 AM
60Bubba
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If you're doing the firewall, make sure you tape off the studs!! When the bodyshop did my Rhino Liner, I had to bird dog them to get them to plug the holes. They used twisted up masking tape and DIDN'T remove them before it hardened. That was a mess to get out completely.

Mine was off the frame and totally stripped, so there were several threaded studs exposed on the firewall. Apparently, their logic didn't extend to the idea that if I didn't want the threaded holes plugged up, I also wouldn't want the studs coated

I used a razor knife to get the ends cleaned off, then chased the threads with a die. You can clean up the holes with a tap in the same fashion. I found that some of the holes had a lip of Rhino Liner built up around the opening that made starting bolts a challenge. I used a large drill bit to bevel away the bed liner material from the opening. Worked great.

Case



Rust-free 1983 CJ-7. 4.0L, T-5, OME YJ springs, frame-off resto in 2014. Rhino Liner on all non-painted surfaces and 2012 Jeep Cosmos Blue paint.
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post #6 of Old 11-29-2015, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
escrouse
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Just picked up a box of 50 from good old Harbor Freight!
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post #7 of Old 11-30-2015, 07:45 AM
bob4703
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If you have exposed studs you need to protect put a dab--that's a precise measurement--of wheel bearing grease on the threads. Bedliner might harden around it, but the grease will protect the threads. If you need to chase threads and can't get a die on the stud use a stainless steel nut. You might have to cut an X on the nut with a Dremle tool if the threads are burred on top. You can do the same thing with a SS bolt if a tap instead of a tap.

-----

If it has electric windows and A/C it ain't a Jeep. It is a rebranded Dodge!
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post #8 of Old 12-05-2015, 04:29 PM Thread Starter
escrouse
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Just thought I'd update, tomorrow will finally be warm enough that the epoxy primer will cure properly in enough time to shoot the bedliner the same day so I prepped the jeep today. Yes, the plastic goes to the ground but I had to lift it to move the jeep back in to the garage.





Thank you CSP, earplugs were just the ticket


So ready for tomorrow!
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post #9 of Old 12-05-2015, 08:42 PM
Mortgage-payer
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Jeez, if a handful of common fasteners costs you $20 you are shopping in the wrong place.


I call it a distributor, not a dizzy.
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post #10 of Old 12-05-2015, 09:25 PM Thread Starter
escrouse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mortgage-payer View Post
Jeez, if a handful of common fasteners costs you $20 you are shopping in the wrong place.
Was a guestimate and might have been way off.

A box of 100 earplugs cost me $5 and I have, like 70 left.

Seems like a good deal for my range bag so I'm glad I asked.

Thanks for the valuable input though.
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post #11 of Old 12-06-2015, 12:21 PM Thread Starter
escrouse
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Step one done.

Mixed and inducting


Old Ben is ready to go


Goodbye crappy looking jeep floor


Hello primer, I hope you stick around




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post #12 of Old 12-06-2015, 02:15 PM
firegod33
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Make sure to thoroughly scuff that primer. Liner material needs the scuffing to bond to the surface. The chemical bond isn't enough, alone.

Earth first... We'll Jeep the other planets later.
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post #13 of Old 12-06-2015, 03:54 PM
Mortgage-payer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mortgage-payer View Post
Jeez, if a handful of common fasteners costs you $20 you are shopping in the wrong place.

FYI. This is U-POL's Raptor liner.

I call it a distributor, not a dizzy.
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post #14 of Old 12-06-2015, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
escrouse
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Originally Posted by firegod33 View Post
Make sure to thoroughly scuff that primer. Liner material needs the scuffing to bond to the surface. The chemical bond isn't enough, alone.
Maaaaan, I hope you're wrong

I talked to a paint guy and to the guy who sold me the liner and followed the instructions they both agreed on.

Nason 491-16 epoxy primer shot at at least 70F, not more than 100F. Air cure 2 hrs based on today's temps here then immediately shoot bedliner, no scuffing.

Nason, if you oven bake or wait more than 24 hr you have to scuff, under 24hr no scuffing with compatible topcoats.

2 part urethane bedliner is a compatible topcoat according to the paint guy.

If you want to sand/scuff 491-16 you must wait 24 hrs or bake. I told the paint guy I was glad to do this and he said go with the the prime/2hrs/bedliner plan for best adhesion.

Which is why I hope you're wrong...

Well, that and this:






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post #15 of Old 12-06-2015, 06:43 PM
firegod33
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Well..... I am the operations manager for a performance polyurea coatings company, including bed liners.......

Earth first... We'll Jeep the other planets later.
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