Sources for GM 151 temperature sender - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 09-21-2017, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
Unclemoak
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Sources for GM 151 temperature sender

I've searched all the usual suspects - Rock Auto, Auto zone, Advanced Auto, Oriellys, Napa and am coming up short on finding the proper coolant temperature sending unit. Seems all the replacements that I come across have 3/8" NPT threads and the original has 5/8" NPT threads.

Anyone gone down this road before?

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post #2 of 9 Old 09-21-2017, 08:34 AM
bob4703
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Buy a 5/8" to 3/8" reducing bushing. Parts store should have them, as should Ace, HD, or Lowe's. Look in plumbing supplies.

Used to be parts stores were staffed with gear heads, but now they are computer oriented.

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post #3 of 9 Old 09-21-2017, 09:22 AM
caseypotts
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Temp

I've been in the same boat you are in for years. I bought the correct sender in the late 90's early 2000 from NAPA. Looking back I wish I would have bought the whole store. Since then I've never found it again. I did the reducer thing but it has never worked correctly since. I plan I getting a Speedhut Gauge next month, and hoping that this will solve all may issues...least those involving my gauges.

1980 CJ7 GM151 Bored out, Flat Top Pistons, Hedman Header, 2.5in Superlift springs, Extrem Shocks' 31 10.5 Mastercraft Courser MT tires on Allied MockLoc rims, Blazer heater upgrade.

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post #4 of 9 Old 09-21-2017, 09:32 AM Thread Starter
Unclemoak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob4703 View Post
Buy a 5/8" to 3/8" reducing bushing. Parts store should have them, as should Ace, HD, or Lowe's. Look in plumbing supplies.

Used to be parts stores were staffed with gear heads, but now they are computer oriented.
I don't have a good reason, but I'd like to avoid using adapters. Call me crazy, but there has to be someone out there that makes the correct sending unit.
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post #5 of 9 Old 09-21-2017, 10:22 AM
bob4703
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It is an easy and inexpensive fix. I've used the same bushing since I upgraded my temperature gauge.

Try a dealership Chrysler and GM as it is a GM engine, but be prepared to pay. Then hope it will work with your gauge.

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post #6 of 9 Old 09-22-2017, 06:04 AM
jeepdaddy2000
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Personally, I would run the bushing. This is a common fix for aftermarket intakes that carry the sender.

Otherwise, have you tried cross referencing a GM car of the same year?
something like this:
https://www.carjunky.com/coolant_tem...~oemparts.html
You can get a list of cross referenced vehicles from wiki and go to you FLAPS and just start pulling senders off the shelf.

bazinga
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post #7 of 9 Old 10-09-2017, 02:03 PM
momo2
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Same problem here. But i recently bought a Standard Motor TS 162 sender on ebay as there is some evidence that it can be crossreferenced to the original part number J 5751811. The sensor has the right npt thread and terminal but it's longer and the bottom end is more narrow. Compared the resistance to the values for the temperature gauge given in Factory service manual and the ts 162 seems to be a a bit higher. Values in the FSM are for the 258 however and there was a lot's of eyeballing on my side. Nevertheless i will give it a try.
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post #8 of 9 Old 10-10-2017, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
Unclemoak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by momo2 View Post
Same problem here. But i recently bought a Standard Motor TS 162 sender on ebay as there is some evidence that it can be crossreferenced to the original part number J 5751811. The sensor has the right npt thread and terminal but it's longer and the bottom end is more narrow. Compared the resistance to the values for the temperature gauge given in Factory service manual and the ts 162 seems to be a a bit higher. Values in the FSM are for the 258 however and there was a lot's of eyeballing on my side. Nevertheless i will give it a try.
Please let us know if it ends up working.
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post #9 of 9 Old 10-11-2017, 05:21 AM
momo2
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Originally Posted by Unclemoak View Post

Please let us know if it ends up working.
Good news. Ts 162 works fine. Needle stayed between the c-mark and the green band most of the time. As the engine got a little hotter - around 85 to 90 degress celsius at the cylinder head - it slightly entered the band. Good luck with your project, i just finished mine.
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